Another plan for open baffles

jaudere

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Hi friends,
I have some questions. Before asking the questions, let me explain the back ground.

I have a new plan about open baffles.

I had a very good experience about Philips Hi-Q full range driver on open baffle. I had some space crunch. So I had dismantled my open baffles and I was using small bookshelve (Philips ready made with 4 full range drivers). I am/was happy with them.
The reason to say was is that, recently out of some fit, I took out the remaining pieces of open baffle and mounted 8 full rangers on them. I understood that those bookshelves are good for bedroom system and that I cant settle for anything other than open baffle. So I decided to build open baffles again.


I dont know the TS parameters of these Philips drivers. However I was quite satisfied with their performance on OB. This time I am planning to build flat OB rather than folded one (to avoid the problems of reflected waves). I will keep the width as 2 feet and height at 3.5 feet.

According to the baffle size calculator, for 24 there will be a roll off below 200Hz approx. (the calculator is 4560/baffle width in inches). So the bass output below this limit is very poor.
In open baffle systems, these problems are tackled in 3 ways.

1) active equalization: like orions
2) choose drivers such that the sensitivity of woofer is at least 6 dB more than mids/high(or full ranger in my case)
3) Choose woofer with QTS > 1(as I learnt recently, this high QTS is important only for low frequencies.i.e. woofers.)

After some search I found Eminence alpha 15 A to be a good choice but few people have mentioned that it can become boomy in smallish rooms. Besides it is a 15 speaker and I wont ask my friend to get it from US. With 2 naughty kids at home, I am not going to use a costly woofer.

Another option was Goldwood 10 or 12 woofer with QTS 1.1. However, the sensitivity is 86dB/W/m. It is extremely difficult to find a mids or full ranger with sensitivity 80dB( 6 dB less than Gldwood). Besides that I dont know how Goldwood would gel with full rangers. So I gave up on that.


When I do near field listening with Philips full rangers, I feel that their bass output is good. So I decided that I will use full ranger as woofer

So there are 2 plans about driver combinations to solve the difficulty with lower frequencies: In both the plans, no driver will actually work as full range; The lower driver will produce frequencies from 55-250Hz, the middle full ranger will produce frequencies from 55 to 4500 and tweeters above 4500. I feel that this should solve the situation where full rangers struggle to produce full frequency spectrum. They should theoretically perform better when given a task to produce wide range frequencies rather than full range.

1) 8 ohm Full ranger as woofer (with a low pass filter at 250Hz) + 8ohm full ranger as mid crossed with tweeter at 4.5 KhZ . In this design, frequencies below 250Hz will be played by 2 speakers which are identical(meaning perfect sonic match) and frequencies above 250 Hz be played by single speaker(250-4500 by full ranger and 4500+ by tweeter)
.

2) The second option which I thought about was that instead of using one 8 ohm single fullranger as woofer, I can use 2 full rangers of 4 ohms in series with the low pass filter at 250Hz. In this way I feel that I can achieve higher SPL below 250Hz without putting extra strain on my amp.


There are 2 plans about baffle design as well.

1) Complete flat baffle
2) Folded baffle for woofers so that I can add another foot of width to the baffle with 2 wings of 6 each. The middle speaker and tweeter will remain on flat baffle.

The Philips Hi Q full rangers are available in 4 as well as 8 ohms. This way I wont need active equalization . I am also more comfortable with smaller speakers. All speakers producing frequencies upto 4500 will be identical(all Philips 8 full rangers). So I hope there wont be much sonic mismatch (there may be some mismatch depending on quality of XO)

The total driver cost will be Rs 1800( 6 drivers at Rs. 300 each). I already have tweeters.
The low pass and 2 way filters are to be bought from parts express. The XO will be of Dayton and low pass filter, brand is unknown. Alternatively, I can buy the XO and low pass filter from Indian brand Ahuja. I am quite curious about Ahuja components. They will cost me Rs 3000 in total(costlier than Dayton, dont know whether it converts into a better quality or no.)I cant build XO myself. So I have to settle for readymade XO.

I had given a good thought to idea of active XO and gave it up after a bit of a search.

Till now I was not using tweeter. Cranky had explained me the purpose of using a tweeter(which actually I did not understand well). But I will take his word this time and cross full range at 4.5 K. This way, the majority of the used spectrum will still be produced by full ranger but it wont have to strain for higher frequencies.


Now here are my questions.

1) Which of the following give higher SPL at same wattage?
i) Single driver of 8 ohm
ii) 2 drivers of 4 ohm each, connected in series.


3) In all readymade cross overs, they have mentioned wattage. E.g. low pass filter of 250Hz , 650W RMS. What does that mean? What will happen if I use this filter with a 50 watt speaker or 300 W speakers?

4) I thank you for patiently going through my loud thinking, but do you feel
that this idea is feasible?

5) Does anyone have idea /experience about Ahuja components?

6) Can 2 woofers of 8 each give SPL equivalent to one 15 woofer at same
wattage and sensitivity?

7) Please have a look at the following link. It says that it is a one way XO but looking at the picture (by clicking on the larger view option), I felt that it is a 2 way XO with cut off at 4 KHz. If it looks confusing; I will go with the Dayton crossover.

Ahuja Sound Solutions



8) For low pass filter, I will have to use Ahuja only because parts express/madisound do not have low pass filter at 250 Hz (this is very important as this freq is decided by my baffle size.)


Ahuja Sound Solutions

Regards
 

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Okay,
Let me ask one by one

Suppose i take 2 combinations 1st: single 8" driver 8Ohm and 2nd: 2 drivers of 8 ", 4 ohms each wired in series. now i play them using same volume control setting.All the drivers have same sensitivity.

Now please tell me , which will be louder? single driver or dual driver?
 
OK, let me guess. The single 8 Ohm driver would be louder than the twin 8 Ohmers since they are wired in series. The pair would be louder than the single driver, if they are wired in parallel. Let's see if someone who actually knows this stuff chimes in...

Series Vs. Parallel Wiring
 
Okay,
Let me ask one by one

Suppose i take 2 combinations 1st: single 8" driver 8Ohm and 2nd: 2 drivers of 8 ", 4 ohms each wired in series. now i play them using same volume control setting.All the drivers have same sensitivity.

Now please tell me , which will be louder? single driver or dual driver?

hi jaudere -

when the resistance is low ( 4 ohms compared to 8 ohms) - the current drawn is higher -

two identical drivers working at 4 ohms (in series) will draw a much higher current than (an identical) one driver working at 8 ohms-

given that achieved Sound Pressure Levels derive from the current that the amplifier can supply (especially at low frequencies) -

it stands to reason that-

the SINGLE DRIVER will achieve better performance - given the drawbacks of the supplying amplifier -

as against this argument - is the fact that two driven surface areas can move much more air volume than one surface - the caveat is that more current must be supplied - and the drivers must be matched and act (perfectly) in cohort.

if one has a high current amplifier ( say, the brystons) - one could risk riding down this path -

again, the electronics (crossovers) must be first-grade.

at this juncture -

i have to say -

you are not on the right path -

in your quest for -

the right (reproduction) of recorded sound-

the human ear (given it's dependence on reliance of previous experience) -

WILL NOT ACCEPT OPEN BAFFLE SYSTEMS (THE ORION - IS NOT GOOD)

ACCEPTABLE to the conditioned human ear -

are closed sytems - which are effective in separating the front compression/rarefaction wave from -

the rear compression/rarefaction wave.

so, jaudere -

better if you go down the path of Bowers & Wilkins rather than that half-crazed Linkwitz (apologies to both:))

regds
suri
 
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jaudere,OB designs have always intrigued me in the simplicity.of course,dunno jack about the specifics,implementation and kudos to u for actually having designed one with locally available resources.i do recall ur being very happy with the sonics as well given their limitations.

maybe this will help???seemingly workable,sonically competent too!!!cheers
http://www.quarter-wave.com/OBs/OB_Design.pdf
 
Guys,

I think there is some misunderstanding.

the dual drivers are 4 ohm each, wired in series. so ultimately they present 8 ohm load to amp. . Now both the systems have same impedance , right?( single driver, 8 ohm and 2 drivers, 4 ohm each but wired in series.)

I feel that dual drivers won't draw more current because, now, they are presenting same load to the amp. Am i right?

Now , in this situation (same impedance in both systems, same volume settings and same sensitivity for all drivers), please tell me which will be louder?

Hey Suri, this is my second attempt at DIY open baffles. I admit that i have not heard Orions and I also admit that I am not going to buy B&W anytime in life simply because of my middle class mentality. Within my budget, say 15K, I have heard both open baffles and boxed speakers. I can tell you that I do like open baffles and my ears are used to it(used my OBs for quite a few months before dismantling). If you have seen the pics in my first post, that is the crude, small OB which I like. So probably I will like the final result as well.
 
Guys,

I think there is some misunderstanding.

the dual drivers are 4 ohm each, wired in series. so ultimately they present 8 ohm load to amp. . Now both the systems have same impedance , right?( single driver, 8 ohm and 2 drivers, 4 ohm each but wired in series.)

I feel that dual drivers won't draw more current because, now, they are presenting same load to the amp. Am i right?

Now , in this situation (same impedance in both systems, same volume settings and same sensitivity for all drivers), please tell me which will be louder?

Hey Suri, this is my second attempt at DIY open baffles. I admit that i have not heard Orions and I also admit that I am not going to buy B&W anytime in life simply because of my middle class mentality. Within my budget, say 15K, I have heard both open baffles and boxed speakers. I can tell you that I do like open baffles and my ears are used to it(used my OBs for quite a few months before dismantling). If you have seen the pics in my first post, that is the crude, small OB which I like. So probably I will like the final result as well.

Hi Jaudere,

Just a thought - why don't you keep your OB only for mids and highs (and keep it single driver), and pair it with a boxed (perhaps, sealed) sub that is both fast and 6db more sensitive?

Regards,
Arun
 
Hi Arun,
That is a good suggestion.
The problem is that i don't know TS parameters of full rangers> so box dimensions are difficult to calculate. I want to avoid sonic mistmatch as far as possible. Thats why i am planning to use the full ranger across all the frquencies upto 4.5KHz.
 
Hi Arun,
That is a good suggestion.
The problem is that i don't know TS parameters of full rangers> so box dimensions are difficult to calculate. I want to avoid sonic mistmatch as far as possible. Thats why i am planning to use the full ranger across all the frquencies upto 4.5KHz.

Now I'm venturing into uncharted waters myself, but you only need to find out the SPL level of your OB speaker. If you obtain a handheld SPL meter (or a DIY solution to measure sound pressure levels), you should be able to measure the sound level of your existing OB yourself.

Then, you can look for an appropriate bass driver and subwoofer design.

I may be completely offbase though.
 
Hi jaudere,

I had my share of OB experiments with the philips 8' and my listening impressions are that it reproduces vocals and midrange beautifully but a poor performer in the bass and high region. Crossing at 4k to a tweeter is a good idea. I suspect this driver is capable of anything below 70 hz. So if you can get hold of a 8' woofer crossed at 250hz may be it might help - just my suggestion though. I doubt even two of the fullranges of xmax about 2mm can reach good SPL levels at low frequencies.

I used Dainty 8' woofers with this speaker with good results. This was my setup. Dainty in a small H baffle crossed at 200hz, Philips fullrange without baffle(magnet mounted) crossed b/w 200-3000 and Philips car tweeter(silk dome). Used active crossover with pc and diy amplifiers. The sound quality was good and bass was acceptable for my small room. I measured the Daintys TS params and it had a Q of 1 which was good for OB use. I did not measure the Philips though.

As you are aware, once you get used to OB bass, nothing else will sound better:) Good luck with your project.
 
Hi jaudere,

I had my share of OB experiments with the philips 8' and my listening impressions are that it reproduces vocals and midrange beautifully but a poor performer in the bass and high region. Crossing at 4k to a tweeter is a good idea. I suspect this driver is capable of anything below 70 hz. So if you can get hold of a 8' woofer crossed at 250hz may be it might help - just my suggestion though. I doubt even two of the fullranges of xmax about 2mm can reach good SPL levels at low frequencies.

I used Dainty 8' woofers with this speaker with good results. This was my setup. Dainty in a small H baffle crossed at 200hz, Philips fullrange without baffle(magnet mounted) crossed b/w 200-3000 and Philips car tweeter(silk dome). Used active crossover with pc and diy amplifiers. The sound quality was good and bass was acceptable for my small room. I measured the Daintys TS params and it had a Q of 1 which was good for OB use. I did not measure the Philips though.

As you are aware, once you get used to OB bass, nothing else will sound better:) Good luck with your project.

Thanks a lot for reviving this thread. I have never heard of these woofers. Where can i get them? I am just unable to get open baffles out of my mind. BTW, which active XO did you use? Does it have RCA ins and outs? finding an active XO with RCA ins and outs was the major problem.

But please do let me know about the woofers. QTs of 1 seems to be good.
Any snaps of your set up?
 
I used a pc based active xover setup using my Creative Audigy Value 5.1 sound card. Used foobar with foo_dsp_xover plugin. The sound card outputs were directly connected to the amplifiers via RCA connectors.

Dainty is a cheap Taiwan make speaker. It should be easily available with the local speaker dealers. I bought it from Globe in SP road Bangalore, forgot what price i bought it - might be around 300 rupees. The model no of dainty is PF0820B(8Ohms 50W). I can post the measured TS parameters if you need it.

I dismantled the setup after testing for a few days but put it back this morning to snap couple of pics for your reference.

obsetup.jpg


philips8.jpg
 

whoa! gobble -

that feastrex driver - the paper for that cone is made by japan's national living treasure! -

that plan does not belong on this thread - not when each of those drivers will burn a $4000 hole in the (idiot) buyer's pocket!

regds suri
 
whoa! gobble -

that feastrex driver - the paper for that cone is made by japan's national living treasure! -

that plan does not belong on this thread - not when each of those drivers will burn a $4000 hole in the (idiot) buyer's pocket!

regds suri

Thought it would inspire our open baffle fans here, but you only baffled them by quoting the price :)

Cheers
 
Thought it would inspire our open baffle fans here, but you only baffled them by quoting the price :)

Cheers

well, yes -

i hope i do not puncture anybody's balloon here (note - i spelled balloon correctly)- but -

going with open baffle systems sucks the life out of music-

i have been down that road - and have regretted the precious time i wasted-

and yes - i have experienced the (best) of open baffle bass - in the best room - and-

in a word - SUCKS

i do not mean to be critical - i have no need to disparage a viewpoint -

i just mean to say -

if you want to go down the open baffle path towards truth -

try other paths - especially transmission line systems-

before expending life and immediate- sentient -youth-

on regrettable paths.
 
well, yes -

i hope i do not puncture anybody's balloon here (note - i spelled balloon correctly)- but -

going with open baffle systems sucks the life out of music-

i have been down that road - and have regretted the precious time i wasted-

and yes - i have experienced the (best) of open baffle bass - in the best room - and-

in a word - SUCKS

i do not mean to be critical - i have no need to disparage a viewpoint -

i just mean to say -

if you want to go down the open baffle path towards truth -

try other paths - especially transmission line systems-

before expending life and immediate- sentient -youth-

on regrettable paths.


Now the poor souls are going to be Openly Baffled :eek:hyeah:

I think the members are reasonably happy to get their SQ at a given budget without indulging in the complexities of cabinet making. Besides you have a master carpenter at hand .. everyone does not have that luxury!! :)
Cheers
 
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