Anti-Skate Calibration

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Typically the best way to calibrate anti-skate on your TT is by using a blank Vinyl which is said to be dead accurate.

Now, I am trying to get me hands on a Blank Vinyl to achieve the above. Any suggestions on where in India I can get my hands on one.

Apart from the above and also using the natural hearing/seeing technique to set your anti-skate right are there any other best practices to this used by fellow members?

Cheers...
 
Search among your records for one that has a fairly large run-off after the last track. That's blank vinyl. I tried this method of trying to calibrate on the run-off area but didn't succeed. The calibrated antiskate is more trustworthy:)
 
From my experience, antiskate calibration is not a rigid standard and is based on several dependencies, like type of cart, type of headshell, tracking force, length of tonearm, tonearm mass, type of tonearm pivot, etc. If you are using the Shure M44-7 MM Cart, the antiskate calibration standards for hi-fi listening is ideally 1.5 gms but for DJ and scratching use, it is different. There is an interesting reference mentioned in the manual, which is based on Technics SL1200. http://cdn.shure.com/user_guide/upload/765/us_pro_dj-cartridges_ug.pdf

I was once advised by an experienced friend to use standard 1.5 gms for all Shure cartridges, this turned out to be similar what my dad used for his Shure M75-6 back in the day.

The correct way to get this calibration right is to use a plain 12 inch disc (without grooves), a thin piece of perspex cut in the shape of a 12 inch record will do. Change the stylus on your cart to an old used one of similar type (not that this matters, but just in case). Set the anti-skate to 0, start spinning the platter and lower the tonearm on to the disk. In normal circumstances, the stylus will skip across the disk towards to label area and auto return (if the facility is available). This is to check if your tonearm moves freely. If the stylus does not skip across to the centre, you'd need to run a check on your tonearm's pivot and overall moveability (or your tone arm may have the anti-skate factor already accomodated)

Now, set the antiskate to a higher value, lower the stylus on to the disk, the tonearm should stay put in the same position. By trial and error, you have to reduce the anti-skate force till you reach a point just before the tonearm skips towards the centre. You now have your ideal antiskate calibration. Revert back to your regular stylus and enjoy the music (remember only the stylus is changed, not the cart).

I tried this method on my SL3200 and arrived at the 2 gms antiskate setting for my M44-7 in original Technics OEM headshell.

On another note, calibrate the tracking force first and then attempt to calibrate the anti-skate. Pundits would say, for higher tracking force, less anti-skate is used. In the old ceramic cartridge based record players of old, there was no requirement for antiskate as the ceramic cart tracking at 5 gms or 7gms would push the stylus down into the grooves. Again some old record players cleverly used to tonearm wiring to provide required antiskate force. Interesting concepts.

Hope this helps.

Note: As per audiophile jargon, Turntable referes to a vinyl disk player used for hi-fi listening while record player refers to either a portable vinyl disk player or a low-fi vinyl disk player. I have used this context.
 
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Instead of a blank record, you can try a laser disc provided you can cut an old 45 RPM adaptor to fit the centre of the laser disk. Since laser disc has a mirror finish, even the image of cartridge can be checked for correct alignment
 
Search among your records for one that has a fairly large run-off after the last track. That's blank vinyl. I tried this method of trying to calibrate on the run-off area but didn't succeed. The calibrated antiskate is more trustworthy:)

+1 I do it in a same way.It works perfectly in my case.The antiskate should be set this way,your tonearm moves very slowly towards spindle.

Regards,
Sachin
 
My Sansui SR 222 has a tonearm which keeps doing pretty much the same thing as in this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CJnVvSkXjZ8

any idea how to fix it ?

That is not a problem, no need to fix it. Those S-shaped arm stays in middle of resting and innermost position of movement when put to balanced level and '0' antiskate with cue down.

IMO setting anti skate while stylus resting on plain mirror surface is different than stylus running within circular groove. Acting forces are different.
 
even when the anti skate is set to 1 or 1.5, it just stays a bit more towards the outside. The problem is that when I'm using it with a cart which needs 1.5 tracking force, the outer parts keep skipping as the tonearm pulls inward until it reaches the equilibrium point. Right now I'm using it with anti skate set to 2 or more regardless of the tracking force.
 
Instead of a blank record, you can try a laser disc provided you can cut an old 45 RPM adaptor to fit the centre of the laser disk. Since laser disc has a mirror finish, even the image of cartridge can be checked for correct alignment

+1 to laser disc
 
+1 I do it in a same way.It works perfectly in my case.The antiskate should be set this way,your tonearm moves very slowly towards spindle.

Regards,
Sachin

Don't know how it is working perfectly. In normal records even in the large run off area have silent groves with large pitch (distance between groves). Even in this area wherever placed the needle, within a single rotation the needle falls inside a grove and tone arm move to end based on a speed how the grove cut done on the record.

Laser disc may works better in case your player doesn't have auto stop or auto return function. The limitation is due to the size of the disc. It is almost same diameter of record label size.
 
One rough guide would be, depending on the cartridge compliance one may look at stylus while playing if it is skewing or not. Do also check if turntable is level.
Regards.
 
To continue an old thread..... Going by ear alone, I found that removing the antiskate lever completely and then adjusting the tracking force gave me the best result. Any one else has this experience?

Cheers!
 
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