Cleaning vintage amp controls

krishtrinity

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I bought a used Akai am2650 vintage amplifier and i am encountered some channel imbalance issues because of dust inside the amplifier amp controls,which is the best spray to use to clean the internals.The original owner has recommended me to use compressed air sprays would really appreciate any help on this issue
 
I bought a used Akai am2650 vintage amplifier and i am encountered some channel imbalance issues because of dust inside the amplifier amp controls,which is the best spray to use to clean the internals.The original owner has recommended me to use compressed air sprays would really appreciate any help on this issue
You can put some IPA(Isopropyl) in the amp controls (vol, balance, tone controls) and rotate the controls, let it dry for sometime before you power on the Amp.

It doesn't come as spray hence you can use a syringe.


Regards
Bilal
 
Open the Amp to get exposure of pots/controls from inside, spray WD-40 from inside towards pots as well as any entry in pots,
Do movements of pots wherever it permits after spraying..
Do it twice a week till u gets a clean sound unless otherwise u will need to replace pots etc.
 
In one line - "avoid using WD40" It may damage potentiometers consisting of carbon layers. Other mechanical switch contacts are okay. Rather use deoxit weherever possible.
 
+1 deoxit is the best, though I must mention that I've used isopropyl on open pots

Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) has to be used with caution. Take small cotton and wet it with IPA. Then wipe the surface (to be cleaned) onetime. Then wipe with dry lint free cotton cloth. Repeat one more time but without rubbing and scrubbing. Rubbing-scrubbing IPA removes the carbon layer from the pot. Rather than working on carbon layer I work on metal contacts. Also don't clean the viscous sticky gel on the base of the shaft. It is required for pot functioning.
 
WD40 will not harm pot contacts. Why would it? Thats a myth based on nothing. Let's look at the facts.

Technically WD-40 is an aliphatic hydrocarbon (difluoroethane) and petroleum base oil. Contact cleaner is made from tetrafluoroethane, which is a refrigerant. Notice that difluoroethane and tetrafluoroethane both have fluoroethane in the names? They are both very similar hydrocarbons, and are both used as refrigerants. Neither of them will harm pots or electrical contacts.

So how is contact cleaner safer than WD-40? It's pretty much the same thing with some oil added. The oil WD-40 leaves behind is fine, since most smooth turning pots have grease in them anyway.

We don't know what's in Deoxit. because it's a trade secret. But I bet it's something similar.

I have actually used WD-40 for cleaning pots on many occasions. The reason I did this was I had a Behringer mixer, and I spilled Pepsi on it (D'Oh!). Several of the faders were shot. I opened the mixer and cleaned it, and even cleaned the faders with distilled water (to remove the sticky residue), isopropyl alcohol (which contains water) and then used "real" contact cleaners and Deoxit). It didn't really fix the pots, but they were less scratchy, but still had dead spots.

Out of desperation I tried some WD-40, and it fixed the pots! Now I use it when I have a scratchy pot that nothing else will help, and I don't want to install a new pot (such as on vintage instruments). It hasn't damaged any pots in any of my basses after many years of use. Some have been working fine after cleaning for about 15-20 years.
 
For cleaning old dirty pots and contact switches WD-40 does a superb job. That said there are some special consideration to be aware of. While WD-40 cleans very well it smells so be advised. Secondly WD-40 contains lubricants (oils) which do air dry (cure) over time. This can then lead to a gummed up pot. So after cleaning with WD-40 you need to flush out the pot or switch with a neutral spray cleaner that does not leave any resedue.
For general cleaning and contact enhancement I like to use MG Chemical's 801-B. Hope that this helps. Regards
 
@raj12345, i think you overlooked my statement. I mentioned carbon layer of potentiometers which provides its resistance value being damaged by WD40. For other metal contacts it lubricates and dislodge smudge nothing else.

Otherwise use it, who stops? ??. I have experienced completely wiped pots demanding only replacement.
 
In my experience this has happened using WD-40:

WD-40 has a very strong penetration-power (that is why it is able to clean stuff, as it is loosens layers of crap that comes off). Obviously, it has lubrication as well.

1. POTS: I have used to clean pots and it would clean and lubricate and make it work, but after sometime, you will realize that it would slowly erode the carbon layer and eventually, your pot will need to be replaced. So do not use WD-40 for POTS.
2. Amplifier and Body cleaning: WD-40 destroys paint. I destroyed my vintage Denon (10 years back when I did not know how to fix things correctly), The front panel lost all the markings, the paint of the body started peeling off, even thought I had left it just for 5 minutes thinking it will remove all the dirt and grime.
3. Other parts in the amplifier: WD-40 reacts with certain plastics, rubber and other materials. Markings on the PCBs (that shows what a pin/connection is for , like +5 volts or GND) will get lost. Rubber linings to hold things together will get destroyed. There are sponge-like spacers between PCBs to reduce mechanical friction, may get destroyed.

So, the only thing I found it useful for amplifiers especially, is to remove rust on the inner, unpainted areas. I also use a suitable sand paper to remove rust, prime it, and then paint it to preserve the metal body.

To clean pots so far I have found only Contact Cleaner of reputable brands that mentions that it does not react with plastics/rubber. In any case, test it one place or a spare pot you might have... and then use it on your equipment.
 
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