DIY 2 Way Bookshelves using S16NI's and TL25SN's

pranavkumar

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Aug 13, 2012
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Hey DIY enthusiasts!

A very happy new year to you all!

To go with the NP F5 that i recently built, i designed a pair of a little biggish bookshelves. These are simple two way ported boxes designed for peerless 6" paper cone mid bass and 25mm neodymium tweeter.

The Crossover employed is a 2 way linkwitz 2nd order XO, crossing at about 2.5kHz. Since it was a "budget" project, i used off the shelf components, which are not labelled as "Audio Grade" and they serve the purpose rather well.

I designed the box using Bass Box Pro and was able to come to a box volume of 30 Liters. Yes its not that small a box. The box is tuned at 37Hz, for a port length of 75mm. but i left the final port tuning on listening impressions.

Build:
The enclosure is built with standard 18mm MDF from green ply. Some kind of a brace was necessary since the box was big, and there was clear scope of wall resonances.
It passed the "knock" test fairly well!

Crossover:
The crossover is a simple 2nd order crossover, satisfying the linkwitz criterion.
I used Vishay's Metalized Polypropylene caps. Since the maximum capacity available was 2.2uF, i had to make banks to come to a final value.
The resistors are standard wirewound 10W resistors, used in series and parallel combinations.
The inductors are would with 19 gauge bell wire. would by a local trafo winder.

Drivers:
S16NI : Its a 6" paper cone driver, capable to handle about 25W of power. Which is pretty decent in my opinion. It goes pretty low as well, without compromising the lower mids. The only thing i didnt like was the construction. These could have been sturdier.
TL25SN: Brilliant neodymium tweeters, a little expensive, but well worth the price.

These speakers sounded brilliant with the F5. The 6" speakers could handle the power from the amplifier very well (Better than i had imagined). The Low's were very distinct, clear and tight. The credit there goes to the fairly high damping factor of the F5 as well.
Mids were subtle and didnt overpower the lows or the highs and the highs were articulate and expressive, with a distinct character.

Here are some pictures:
IMG_2496.JPG


IMG_2500.JPG



IMG_2527.JPG


IMG_2531.JPG


IMG_2551.JPG


better pictures to come soon :)
 
Nice Build Pranav.

A small suggestion but not worth telling at this point.

The tweeter could be placed much closer to the mid-bass for even more imaging.
 
This is the size a bookshelf speaker should be! Looks very imposing, yet subtle. Wish I could hear them myself.
:clapping:
 
Hey Pranav,

Nice build, congrats.

Just one question, shouldn't the drivers be flush against the surface to reduce diffraction at the edges of the drivers? I dont know if it will help to flush mount the drivers by creating a slight indentation in the front baffle.

Thanks
 
Hey Pranav,

Nice build, congrats.

Just one question, shouldn't the drivers be flush against the surface to reduce diffraction at the edges of the drivers? I dont know if it will help to flush mount the drivers by creating a slight indentation in the front baffle.

Thanks

Thanks.
yes, they should be. Finishing constraints prevented me to do the flush mount.

When the box is to be painted, its easier. With mica, it becomes a little difficult to do so.
 
I used the data provided by Peerless.
Have do you measure data? if you do.
You can measure T-S parameters easily using REW. For measuring FR and Impedance, REW can do this too, along with a calibrated microphone.

Next Q: What did you use to design the x-over?
 
You can measure T-S parameters easily using REW. For measuring FR and Impedance, REW can do this too, along with a calibrated microphone.

Next Q: What did you use to design the x-over?

Okay, REW is something i worked with.
An ideal way to measure the TSPs would be after the burn in time. The parameters vary over time anyway.

I used XOver to design the crossover, simulated it using MultiSim (national Instruments), just for my satisfaction.
 
Hi Pranav,

Your speakers seem to have come up well. Congratulations!
And I believe they will be sounding very nice.

On another note I feel lot of people may want to do diy speakers but I think many like me doesnt have any idea abt crossovers so they end up buying the diy kits with readymade crossover or they just buy something off the shelf. This just my personal feeling.
 
Hi Pranav,

Your speakers seem to have come up well. Congratulations!
And I believe they will be sounding very nice.

On another note I feel lot of people may want to do diy speakers but I think many like me doesnt have any idea abt crossovers so they end up buying the diy kits with readymade crossover or they just buy something off the shelf. This just my personal feeling.

Yes, thats very true.
Its not worth getting into something with little or no knowledge and then be disappointing with the results. Unless one is very eager and keen and is more of an experimentalist.

DIY requires a lot of time, patience and also the heart to accept failure. DIY may not be everyone's cup of tea. And thats completely fine :)
 
lot of people may want to do diy speakers but I think many like me doesnt have any idea abt crossovers so they end up buying the diy kits with readymade crossover or they just buy something off the shelf

Experimenting.. is my answer. The image is of a simple crossover I made using common pcb and the inductors are made out of empty soldering wire spool. Though it looks like immature diy work, it has a good sound signature and makes a real audible difference.

The woofer inductor has a ferrite core. I have progressed from this one to better crossovers, both look and SQ wise. Like Pranav said "DIY requires a lot of time, patience and also the heart to accept failure". All caps are non-polar.

https://imageshack.com/i/04l645j
 
Experimenting.. is my answer. The image is of a simple crossover I made using common pcb and the inductors are made out of empty soldering wire spool. Though it looks like immature diy work, it has a good sound signature and makes a real audible difference.

The woofer inductor has a ferrite core. I have progressed from this one to better crossovers, both look and SQ wise. Like Pranav said "DIY requires a lot of time, patience and also the heart to accept failure". All caps are non-polar.

https://imageshack.com/i/04l645j

I remember, i made my first crossover inductor on a PVC pipe. one person tensioning the copper wire and me winding it around the pipe. It resulted in blisters in my hands.
I dont think i'd ever do that again. This time as you can see i got my inductors wound on transformer cores, by a trafo winder. resulted in evenly wound wires without overlaps. i am gonna stick to this method i guess.
 
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