Rega RP1 slows down and then just stops

acemachine26

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So my RP1 has had speed issues for a while now. At 45rpm it hasn't reached the proper speed for a few months but at 33 1/3 rpm it used to work fine after rotating the platter a few times by hand. But now even that doesn't work. It's not a belt issue because this happens with both my old and new belt. Maybe I need to add oil in the bearing? Or is this an issue with the motor?
 
So my RP1 has had speed issues for a while now. At 45rpm it hasn't reached the proper speed for a few months but at 33 1/3 rpm it used to work fine after rotating the platter a few times by hand. But now even that doesn't work. It's not a belt issue because this happens with both my old and new belt. Maybe I need to add oil in the bearing? Or is this an issue with the motor?
 
So my RP1 has had speed issues for a while now. At 45rpm it hasn't reached the proper speed for a few months but at 33 1/3 rpm it used to work fine after rotating the platter a few times by hand. But now even that doesn't work. It's not a belt issue because this happens with both my old and new belt. Maybe I need to add oil in the bearing? Or is this an issue with the motor?
What a bummer!
I’m sure the analogue gurus here will sort you out. However, worst case scenario, keep this number handy:
Aernoud Decker - 9967310500
He’s the India dealer for Audio Note and they offer a turntable setup service. If all else fails, you could check them out.
 
So my RP1 has had speed issues for a while now. At 45rpm it hasn't reached the proper speed for a few months but at 33 1/3 rpm it used to work fine after rotating the platter a few times by hand. But now even that doesn't work. It's not a belt issue because this happens with both my old and new belt. Maybe I need to add oil in the bearing? Or is this an issue with the motor?
You can start with a drop or two of oil and this should do the trick. If not, could be the motor. Give the lubing a shot and let us know how it goes.
 
So I oiled the bearing but that wasn't the issue. It still slows down after a few minutes and then comes to a complete stop. The way the pulley rotates feels really weak. It can play a 150g record (sometimes) but if I put on a 200g record it has issues even reaching the proper speed before coming to a stop. Maybe the resistor or capacitor need to be replaced? The pulley vibrates when turned on but doesn't rotate most of the time.

Nobody in Bangalore seems to be interested in servicing it. Best I found was shipping it to Mumbai for repair, the price quoted for that is almost as much as I paid for the turntable.
 
So I oiled the bearing but that wasn't the issue. It still slows down after a few minutes and then comes to a complete stop. The way the pulley rotates feels really weak. It can play a 150g record (sometimes) but if I put on a 200g record it has issues even reaching the proper speed before coming to a stop. Maybe the resistor or capacitor need to be replaced? The pulley vibrates when turned on but doesn't rotate most of the time.

Nobody in Bangalore seems to be interested in servicing it. Best I found was shipping it to Mumbai for repair, the price quoted for that is almost as much as I paid for the turntable.
some good clues from your report, let me break these down based on your findings:

problem statement:
1) has a problem starting, you have to rotate the platter manually to get it to turn
2) even after the platter starts turning, it gets up to the intended rpm (when it does) with great difficulty
3) there is apparently little torque, the weight of the record impacts the rpm
4) pulley appears to vibrate (probably what you meant is, you can feel the pulley attempt to turn but it just doesn't enough torque to start)
5) you have confirmed that it is not a bearing issue

Assuming that your turntable's platter turns freely without the belt (confirmed to be ok, by your checks), and assuming you checked the belt and it has the required play, then it's the motor and related circuitry.

Caution: Only attempt to do this if you are experienced with electronics DIY, specifically with understanding electronics and electrical circuits, electrical wiring and soldering iron usage / soldering techniques. Also a good understanding of different capacitor types/brands and capacitor quality, is required. A basic understanding on how to check capacitors (and a capacitance/ESR meter) is also required.

You can open up the power supply casing under the turntable.

Rega-1.png

Unscrew the power supply PCB and check for dry solder joints. If the joints are good, check the capacitors, especially the 0.22 mfd capacitor, pointed to, in the pictures below:

Rega-2.png
Rega-3.png

The 0.22 mfd capacitor is likely to be the culprit. When replacing this capacitor avoid using the readily available low-cost types that you will commonly find in re-charchable torches, re-chargeable emergency lights, etc. Always use the higher quality polypropylene metal film box-type capacitor for example, like this one or similar, as a replacement. Use the same voltage rating as the existing one, or higher (but keep an eye on the size for mounting on your powersupply PCB)

Alternately if the powersupply capacitors are ok, then there is only one suspect left, and that's the motor itself (which is highly unlikely especially if your deck is a relatively new one - you've not mentioned the age :) )
 
Last edited:
some good clues from your report, let me break these down based on your findings:

problem statement:
1) has a problem starting, you have to rotate the platter manually to get it to turn
2) even after the platter starts turning, it gets up to the intended rpm (when it does) with great difficulty
3) there is apparently little torque, the weight of the record impacts the rpm
4) pulley appears to vibrate (probably what you meant is, you can feel the pulley attempt to turn but it just doesn't enough torque to start)
5) you have confirmed that it is not a bearing issue

Assuming that your turntable's platter turns freely without the belt (confirmed to be ok, by your checks), and assuming you checked the belt and it has the required play, then it's the motor and related circuitry.

Caution: Only attempt to do this if you are experienced with electronics DIY, specifically with understanding electronics and electrical circuits, electrical wiring and soldering iron usage / soldering techniques. Also a good understanding of different capacitor types/brands and capacitor quality, is required. A basic understanding on how to check capacitors (and a capacitance/ESR meter) is also required.

You can open up the power supply casing under the turntable.

View attachment 77525

Unscrew the power supply PCB and check for dry solder joints. If the joints are good, check the capacitors, especially the 0.22 mfd capacitor, pointed to, in the pictures below:

View attachment 77526
View attachment 77528

The 0.22 mfd capacitor is likely to be the culprit. When replacing this capacitor avoid using the readily available low-cost types that you will commonly find in re-charchable torches, re-chargeable emergency lights, etc. Always use the higher quality polypropylene metal film box-type capacitor for example, like this one or similar, as a replacement. Use the same voltage rating as the existing one, or higher (but keep an eye on the size for mounting on your powersupply PCB)

Alternately if the powersupply capacitors are ok, then there is only one suspect left, and that's the motor itself (which is highly unlikely especially if your deck is a relatively new one - you've not mentioned the age :) )
Awesome, this is just what I was looking for!! I also suspect the capacitor to be the culprit. I was just wondering what kind of replacement capacitor to get, so your comment has been highly informative. Really appreciate the help, thanks! Will let you know if that fixes the issue.
 
Awesome, this is just what I was looking for!! I also suspect the capacitor to be the culprit. I was just wondering what kind of replacement capacitor to get, so your comment has been highly informative. Really appreciate the help, thanks! Will let you know if that fixes the issue.
Please check the capacitors using a capacitance meter before changing them. These capacitors may look physically fine but may be faulty. Also not a bad idea to touch up the soldering on all the joints as Regas are prone to dry solder joints.
 
Please check the capacitors using a capacitance meter before changing them. These capacitors may look physically fine but may be faulty. Also not a bad idea to touch up the soldering on all the joints as Regas are prone to dry solder joints.

Took a pic of my capacitor. So will the capacitor that you linked be a suitable replacement?
20230610_130716.jpg
 
Before replacing the caps I would check them first. Also any brand of box-type polypropylene metal film box-type capacitor with the same specs should work. Also check those resistors just to be on the safe side.
 
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