Subwoofer for Music listening on Marantz PM5005 + Wharfedale Diamond 2220

swamytk

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As title says I am looking to add a Subwoofer for my Music setup. Please don't ask why and what lacks in current setup. I don't know anything. Being a noob just I would like to experience a Sub first time. So I need one value for money and decent quality. May be this experience will be helpful to setup my HT setup later.

Room:
Size: 14.5' X 13'
Height 9'
188 sqft
1700 cuft

Budget: Max ₹20,000

Since Amplifier does not have Sub output, the suggested Sub must have speaker level input and output connectors for both left and right side.

Marantz PM5005 Stereo Amplifier

Power Output (8 / 4 Ohm RMS) 40 W / 55 W
Frequency response 10 Hz-50 kHz
Total Harmonic Distortion 0.01 %
Damping Factor 100
Input Sensitivity: MM 2.2 mV / 47 kOhm
Signal to Noise Ratio: MM 83 dB
Input Sensitivity: High level 200 mV / 20 kOhm
Signal to Noise Ratio: High level 103dB (2V input)

Wharfedale Diamond 220 Bookshelf Pair
Sensitivity(2.83V @ 1m) 86dB
Recommended amplifier 25-100W
power
Peak SPL 95dB
Nominal impedance 8Ω Compatible
Minimum impedance 4.1Ω
Frequency response (+/-3dB) 56Hz - 20kHz
Bass extension (-6dB 45Hz
Crossover frequency 2.2kHz
 
Hi

You need to go for a sub which can perform lower than 56hz...look at Yamaha subs which start from 12k onwards....specific models will have the speaker level connections you want....

There also could be Taga.....

If you are fine with the pre owned route, check classifieds and OLX.....you may find many
 
Instead of using high level inputs , why not get a passive sub with outputs for satellites ?
 
Hi

Get this sub......you will be sorted.....the seller is a proper dealer and a couple of my friends have purchased from this dealer. Proper bill and warranty is provided. Contact the seller and check for various models. I believe the SW315 would be more idea....this one will also do to provide the missing bass frequencies and provide presence. If you are a basshead then go for a powerful subwoofer!

 
Best bet for you is to get a subwoofer with High Level input and output. Connect the output of your amp to the high level ins, and speakers to the high level out of the subwoofer. The subwoofer won't load the amplifier, just pass on the signal to speakers while giving you full volume control for speakers and subwoofer from the amplifier itself. Moreover the signal will be passed to speakers even if the subwoofer is off so you will have the flexibility of adding/removing bass at the flick of a switch.
I recently got a Polk Audio PSW110 from fellow forum member @delhite2 and have the aforementioned setup where the amp signal goes to Polk sub and from the sub to my Wharfedale speakers ( sourced from @blackscorpio ). This allows me to run just the speakers for normal YouTube usage, activating the sub when playing music or watching movies.
 
Music = tight bass = sealed subwoofer = Wharfedale D10 in your budget
 
Music = tight bass = sealed subwoofer = Wharfedale D10 in your budget
But it does not have High level input and also it costs much higher than my budget of 20K. :-(
 
Have you already checked this one?
I keep it in mind. It fits my budget. But not sure about quality and VFM of this sub. Can some one who has used may throw some opinion. It would be helpful.
 
Last edited:
First decide the size you want to go for. Bigger the Subwoofer, lower it plays, better it is for Home theater use but not so much for Music where tighter bass is required and bigger the cone area, harder it becomes to control it's movement(thus the servo subwoofers) Add to that the fact that most subwoofers are geared toward HT use thus generally ported to obtain more low end extension for a given box and driver size and less power hungry than sealed counterparts. The sealed ones are better suited for music playback usage but require more power to drive. This factor alone makes them more expensive than ported ones.
Once you decide the size you want to go for, then look for pre-owned subs on the forum or OLX. Jamo Sub200 and Focal Cub3 are good 8 inch subs available online. For 10 inch you have the option of TAGA Harmony and Yamaha. Pre-owned 12inch ones are hard to find in your budget and new ones will also go over it. Best compromise would be a 10inch one.
P.S: Hope you and your family (and Audio gear) is safe from floods
 
First decide the size you want to go for. Bigger the Subwoofer, lower it plays, better it is for Home theater use but not so much for Music where tighter bass is required and bigger the cone area, harder it becomes to control it's movement(thus the servo subwoofers) Add to that the fact that most subwoofers are geared toward HT use thus generally ported to obtain more low end extension for a given box and driver size and less power hungry than sealed counterparts. The sealed ones are better suited for music playback usage but require more power to drive. This factor alone makes them more expensive than ported ones.
Once you decide the size you want to go for, then look for pre-owned subs on the forum or OLX. Jamo Sub200 and Focal Cub3 are good 8 inch subs available online. For 10 inch you have the option of TAGA Harmony and Yamaha. Pre-owned 12inch ones are hard to find in your budget and new ones will also go over it. Best compromise would be a 10inch one.
Detailed and helpful. Thanks. For following room which size of Sub I need?
Room:
Size: 14.5' X 13'
Height 9'
188 sqft
1700 cuft

P.S: Hope you and your family (and Audio gear) is safe from floods
Thanks for care. We are safe.
 
First decide the size you want to go for. Bigger the Subwoofer, lower it plays, better it is for Home theater use but not so much for Music where tighter bass is required and bigger the cone area, harder it becomes to control it's movement(thus the servo subwoofers) Add to that the fact that most subwoofers are geared toward HT use thus generally ported to obtain more low end extension for a given box and driver size and less power hungry than sealed counterparts. The sealed ones are better suited for music playback usage but require more power to drive. This factor alone makes them more expensive than ported ones.
Once you decide the size you want to go for, then look for pre-owned subs on the forum or OLX. Jamo Sub200 and Focal Cub3 are good 8 inch subs available online. For 10 inch you have the option of TAGA Harmony and Yamaha. Pre-owned 12inch ones are hard to find in your budget and new ones will also go over it. Best compromise would be a 10inch one.
P.S: Hope you and your family (and Audio gear) is safe from floods
I have an another confusion of high level output from sub. Since I have a stereo amp, I prefer high level input sub. But it looks like it needs to have high level output also for speaker. Most of the budget subs don't have high level output even if they have high level inputs. In this case how the overlap of sub and speakers on any frequency below sub crossover can be controlled?
 
In case my earlier query is confusing => Some subs have high-pass-filtered speaker-level outputs. But they are in high price range. How important is this speaker-level output from Sub?
 
In case my earlier query is confusing => Some subs have high-pass-filtered speaker-level outputs. But they are in high price range. How important is this speaker-level output from Sub?
This becomes important if one has an OCD kind of obsession about what frequency should come from where, which is near impossible to achieve in case of audio as the filters(high pass/low pass) don't cut out the frequencies, it's a roll off, either 12dB or 24dB. Moreover having a high pass on high level outs means now the main drivers aren't getting the full range of the signal and subwoofer is trying to overwork itself. This would be reminiscent to your TPA amp, cutting frequencies from L-R output and shoving more in subwoofer. High grade sub units with such filtering capabilities would have a customizable high pass filter working in tandem with the configurable low pass filter, but that's something I haven't used or seen personally to give a definitive comment about.
As manufacturers build Bookshelf speakers with stereo output response as one of the criteria in purview, there's nothing wrong with letting the full range signal go to Mains and just the lows to subwoofer as that's what subwoofers are for, extend the audible signature and improve it by covering/overlapping where the Mains start to fizzle out.
In your case, as you are already using high grade bookshelves with low frequency response going down to 56Hz (45Hz @-6dB) and crossover set at 2.2KHz, integrating a subwoofer in the setup for handling low bass isn't going to be difficult and it won't add boominess to the audio signature as long as subwoofer low pass point is set between 55-60Hz range.
In simpler terms, your Main drivers handle the full range signal well and respectfully touch the low frequencies too, so having a subwoofer just for lower end will give the low end extension in the audio signature and will easily pick up the slack from where your speakers begin to roll off. For this purpose, any decent subwoofer would do. As in most subwoofers the High Level In is passively passed on to High Level Outs, if you find something that has just the High level input, even that would do if you run cables parallel to it to your speakers because the subwoofer wants just the signal from the input, not power. This method is possible and feasible, whether advisable or not, that I leave up to members more experienced than me.
Take a look at this
If you go for this, you'll be pretty much set for a long time in subwoofer department
 
This becomes important if one has an OCD kind of obsession about what frequency should come from where, which is near impossible to achieve in case of audio as the filters(high pass/low pass) don't cut out the frequencies, it's a roll off, either 12dB or 24dB. Moreover having a high pass on high level outs means now the main drivers aren't getting the full range of the signal and subwoofer is trying to overwork itself. This would be reminiscent to your TPA amp, cutting frequencies from L-R output and shoving more in subwoofer. High grade sub units with such filtering capabilities would have a customizable high pass filter working in tandem with the configurable low pass filter, but that's something I haven't used or seen personally to give a definitive comment about.
As manufacturers build Bookshelf speakers with stereo output response as one of the criteria in purview, there's nothing wrong with letting the full range signal go to Mains and just the lows to subwoofer as that's what subwoofers are for, extend the audible signature and improve it by covering/overlapping where the Mains start to fizzle out.
In your case, as you are already using high grade bookshelves with low frequency response going down to 56Hz (45Hz @-6dB) and crossover set at 2.2KHz, integrating a subwoofer in the setup for handling low bass isn't going to be difficult and it won't add boominess to the audio signature as long as subwoofer low pass point is set between 55-60Hz range.
In simpler terms, your Main drivers handle the full range signal well and respectfully touch the low frequencies too, so having a subwoofer just for lower end will give the low end extension in the audio signature and will easily pick up the slack from where your speakers begin to roll off. For this purpose, any decent subwoofer would do. As in most subwoofers the High Level In is passively passed on to High Level Outs, if you find something that has just the High level input, even that would do if you run cables parallel to it to your speakers because the subwoofer wants just the signal from the input, not power. This method is possible and feasible, whether advisable or not, that I leave up to members more experienced than me.
Take a look at this
If you go for this, you'll be pretty much set for a long time in subwoofer department
Detailed, it is very helpful. Thanks a ton, buddy!
 
Hi, there was a velodyne impact for sale in Mumbai. You can check with the seller if it's still available.

 
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