How much power do you use? A Test

Well, my power amplifier does have a display that shows what power is being drawn - not sure how accurate it is - but most of the time it shows the power drawn by the speaker to be under 5 watts.
However, during certain passages & kinds of music - I have seen the meter displaying 50 to 60 watts. Yes, not a typo.
So even though I have a small 2 way book shelf - the power is needed - sometimes.

To be on the 'safe' side - the Cadence Canasya gives to me 50 Watts of pure Class A power & then switches to class A/B later - this happened on a very rare occasion.
 
Rajiv,
Adding on to Bhagwans post, Although I am not the really tech guy, there are 2 aspects we could potnetially miss out in the above. while the above is for the Amps power output, we should be able to get the actual input power needed as well.
1. Dynamic power: as mentioned by Bhagwan, you would need a very sensitive voltmeter which can measure the actual max voltage rather than an RMS one..may not be that much of a challenge
2. Current: i would assume that ideally all amps are constant current(overdesigned) but the problem with many amps is the inability to give that current at the nanosec it is needed as well as control the driver enough to not let it be loose.
I presume thats why many 25W amps appear more powerful than 100W amps.I am not sure of the slew rate really defines this in the best way..but am open to learn.

i would think there is another way to corroborate the reading proposed above taking into account the following my very layman based approach so any corrections/additions and +ve criticisms would only be welcomed :)

-Sensitivity of the speaker : 1W in 1 mter distance.keep doubling wattage for every additional db needed and also for every time distance is doubled added
eg if sensitivity is 90db. and you listen to music at 93db then you need 2W at 1m distance (usual listening wouldbe in the 85 Avg with peaks at 100)

if distance increases to 2 M then you need 4W, 4m 8W etc etc etc
-Efficiency. typical efficiency of conical driver box speakers are in the range of 2-8% (much higner for horns and lower for planar etc)
this will give you input power you get from above.

Adding on,
-Amp efficiency: Class AB is 60-80% and pure class A is 10-20%.
dynamic power...3 times the same to be safe
-CDP/Digital/pre etc.. input to all 3 should usually vary between 25-50W..since they are usually pure class A, no need for dynamic variability

Can any of the more techies in the forum help in clearing my above point ?
 
I use an APC UPS that shows me the current drawn by the entire system. Of all the components, only the amp draws variable power so it is safe to assume that all peaks are amp led.

I have seen the base power go from 250w to as high as 1500w momentarily during loud movie sequences that engage the subs. Of course I have a system that is rated to that capacity so I am not surprised.

Only goes to underscore the point that 95% of the time 5% of the power is adequate, but, boy, the other 5% of the time.......
 
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