Musical Fidelity A1 + Fluance SX6 - Too Bright

robin3989

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Hello Forum members,

I have recently purchased an used Musical Fidelity A1 integrated amp from an audio enthusiast who is unfortunately not a FM here. I was previously using SMSL SA98E driving Fluance SX-6 bookshelf speakers.

SA98E is a class D, 160watt per channel amp, and could easily power the speakers. However, when i connected them to the A1, the difference in sound quality was very much evident and the hiss that i used hear from SA98e even at 0 volume level completely disappeared. A1 has excellent clarity though it's rated 20w per channel. But the problem now is that the speakers sound too bright with enhanced high and mid range. The Fluance SX6 speakers never sounded warm either, but when i had them connected to the SMSL SA98, they were not sounding great, but atleast they were not fatiguing during extended listening periods.

I am planning to add a subwoofer to see if that can fix this. Because the main speakers don't go any deeper than 60Hz. As i'm investing now on the subwoofer, i cannot think about changing the speakers now. Any other possible solution? Adding a DSP might be a workaround?

Thanks,
Robin R
 
Go through this thread. Get in touch with FM @reignofchaos
 
Hello Robin.
If Musical Fidelity A1 is around 40 years old amplifier, usually sometimes the electrolytic in amplifier section and power supply capacitor needs to changed. Regardless of hiss you had on SMSL only component you changed was amplifier (i.e. Musical fidelity) so most probably sound change is due to the replaced amplifier.
Regards
 

The impression and measurements on this review about the Fluance seem to be on par with what you are experiencing. Try the DSP file in the review and see how it sounds with DSP applied.
 
That is a 20 Watt Class A amp. Its top cover acts as it's heat sink. Avoid keeping it enclosed in a shelf as it heats up a lot.
Secondly you definitely need better speakers as the Fluence is a forward and bright sounding speaker in its original design.
 
Correct. And heat deteriorates the capacitors. Very slim enclosure of musical fidelity A1 too adds to it. No harm in taking a look inside. If all OK then there may be other causes of the system sounding bright. Hope OP udates in future.
Regards
 
Go through this thread. Get in touch with FM @reignofchaos
Thanks, i sent him a PM!
 
Hello Robin.
If Musical Fidelity A1 is around 40 years old amplifier, usually sometimes the electrolytic in amplifier section and power supply capacitor needs to changed. Regardless of hiss you had on SMSL only component you changed was amplifier (i.e. Musical fidelity) so most probably sound change is due to the replaced amplifier.
Regards
I'm planning to replace the PSU Electrolytic capacitors. I opened the amp recently and found they are all axial caps. It's really difficult to get them nowadays, luckily i found them available on Aliexpress. So ordered them. I'm hoping that the new 105c rated caps will improve things.
 

The impression and measurements on this review about the Fluance seem to be on par with what you are experiencing. Try the DSP file in the review and see how it sounds with DSP applied.
I have gone through the review and this made me worry that these speakers are bright sounding. I don't want to change them too soon, i will keep them for a few more months and see if i perceive the sound different. Also i think he has a miniDSP to apply those settings to make them sound better. I will try to add a dsp if that can be helpful to tame the treble.

That is a 20 Watt Class A amp. Its top cover acts as it's heat sink. Avoid keeping it enclosed in a shelf as it heats up a lot.
Secondly you definitely need better speakers as the Fluence is a forward and bright sounding speaker in its original design.
I have given plenty of space above and around the amp. And also planning to add a small usb noise free fan directed towards the top cover to help dissipate more heat.
That's correct, Fluance by original design is bright sounding. I recently connected a different speaker (KEF Q35 - 1997) and they sounded good, gentle highs. But i still find Fluance faster than floor-standers.
 
Since you seem to be liking some aspects of the speakers and are inclined to retain them, you could try out the following that might add some warmth to the sound:

- Moving the speakers closer to the wall (as long as the bass doesn’t become boomy)
- If any of your cables (speaker or interconnects) or the connectors are silver or rhodium plated, try gold plated ones.
- introducing a tube interference
- adding a sub woofer

As I see it, DSP should be the last option after the above - since it changes sound at the source. Once you adjust the DSP, you would never know what could have gained by any of the above mentioned tweaks. On the other hand, if any of the above works, you’d have to saw off less in the DSP.
 
I'm planning to replace the PSU Electrolytic capacitors. I opened the amp recently and found they are all axial caps. It's really difficult to get them nowadays, luckily i found them available on Aliexpress. So ordered them. I'm hoping that the new 105c rated caps will improve things.
I have little knowledge of electronics and circuits. But Power supply caps will probably be responsible for power supply noise and Bass performance. For Amplifier to sound bright amplification stages needs to be checked. Maybe some expert will chime in.
Regards
 
I haven't heard either of these components, from whatever online resources I can find, fluence sx6 seems to side towards the brighter side of things.
From here No Audiophile SX6

Recommended Amp power is 30 - 100w for your bookshelf speakers with 89db, to get decent bass out of these I'd consider driving them with 100wpc amp at the minimum ; A1 being 20wpc ( though Class A) maybe falling short, need to check other specs. Things get bright and shouty when amps are working hard (read lack of adequate headroom) in my experience.

Toeing out, not directing tweeters to listeners ears directly is one of the way to get rid of brightness, so is moving the speakers close to the front wall. In the review above the reviewer recommends keeping them as close as 10" from the front wall.

Using a DSP is well worth it ; if you can't take care of basic acoustics, like absorbers at front reflection points and thick mat at the center etc, or things are not upto the mark in spite of taking care of basic acoustics.

Changing to - Thicker power cords, interconnect cables and speaker wires is another way to remedy the brighter highs, but usually ends up costing higher than the cheapest option of changing to warmer speakers. And it's time consuming as the cables behave differently in different setups.

Finally adding a decent power conditioner can remedy the shoutiness and better resolution while keeping the same power cables, consider that route as well.
Keep us posted
 
Hello Forum members,

I have recently purchased an used Musical Fidelity A1 integrated amp from an audio enthusiast who is unfortunately not a FM here. I was previously using SMSL SA98E driving Fluance SX-6 bookshelf speakers.

SA98E is a class D, 160watt per channel amp, and could easily power the speakers. However, when i connected them to the A1, the difference in sound quality was very much evident and the hiss that i used hear from SA98e even at 0 volume level completely disappeared. A1 has excellent clarity though it's rated 20w per channel. But the problem now is that the speakers sound too bright with enhanced high and mid range. The Fluance SX6 speakers never sounded warm either, but when i had them connected to the SMSL SA98, they were not sounding great, but atleast they were not fatiguing during extended listening periods.

I am planning to add a subwoofer to see if that can fix this. Because the main speakers don't go any deeper than 60Hz. As i'm investing now on the subwoofer, i cannot think about changing the speakers now. Any other possible solution? Adding a DSP might be a workaround?

Thanks,
Robin R
Try changing the power cable and best to buy a shielded cable. It helped me a lot to reduce excessive brightness.
 
Since you seem to be liking some aspects of the speakers and are inclined to retain them, you could try out the following that might add some warmth to the sound:

- Moving the speakers closer to the wall (as long as the bass doesn’t become boomy)
- If any of your cables (speaker or interconnects) or the connectors are silver or rhodium plated, try gold plated ones.
- introducing a tube interference
- adding a sub woofer

As I see it, DSP should be the last option after the above - since it changes sound at the source. Once you adjust the DSP, you would never know what could have gained by any of the above mentioned tweaks. On the other hand, if any of the above works, you’d have to saw off less in the DSP.

@SachinChavan I have REL T5i subwoofer, placed in the corner behind FR main and so i pulled the speakers 2 feet away from the walls. The sound is too good now, it's unbelievable that the sub contributes a lot to the mids matching the sacrificed main's bass as Fluance being rear ported. So, at this point, not adding DSP. Instead i have added a DAC to enhance the source. Note that i was using an iPhone as the source directly connected to the integrated amp to play songs using 3.5mm to RCA converter cable. Now i play songs from laptop and use the external DAC, which provides sufficient gain for the amp. I think iPhone without EQ is one of the reasons for harsh bright sound.

I have little knowledge of electronics and circuits. But Power supply caps will probably be responsible for power supply noise and Bass performance. For Amplifier to sound bright amplification stages needs to be checked. Maybe some expert will chime in.
Regards
@Hiten Adding the DAC itself has significantly helped tame down treble, now i can remove the speaker grills and listen. Musical Fidelity A1 is now easily driving the speakers, i don't think there are problems with the output stages. I connected the amp to KEF Q35 FS recently, and i didn't sound bright with CD player as the source.

Experiment with toe-in/out to tame the highs.
Thanks, this works! Can you suggest the listening position and height? Currently the speakers have 6ft between them, 2 feet pulled away from front wall and 1.5 feet away from side walls. The listening position is 7 feet from the speakers, i find this balanced, but the height is confusing. I currently have the woofer in-level with the ear, is this height correct?
 
I haven't heard either of these components, from whatever online resources I can find, fluence sx6 seems to side towards the brighter side of things.
From here No Audiophile SX6

Recommended Amp power is 30 - 100w for your bookshelf speakers with 89db, to get decent bass out of these I'd consider driving them with 100wpc amp at the minimum ; A1 being 20wpc ( though Class A) maybe falling short, need to check other specs. Things get bright and shouty when amps are working hard (read lack of adequate headroom) in my experience.

Toeing out, not directing tweeters to listeners ears directly is one of the way to get rid of brightness, so is moving the speakers close to the front wall. In the review above the reviewer recommends keeping them as close as 10" from the front wall.

Using a DSP is well worth it ; if you can't take care of basic acoustics, like absorbers at front reflection points and thick mat at the center etc, or things are not upto the mark in spite of taking care of basic acoustics.

Changing to - Thicker power cords, interconnect cables and speaker wires is another way to remedy the brighter highs, but usually ends up costing higher than the cheapest option of changing to warmer speakers. And it's time consuming as the cables behave differently in different setups.

Finally adding a decent power conditioner can remedy the shoutiness and better resolution while keeping the same power cables, consider that route as well.
Keep us posted
It's true that Fluance SX6 bookshelves are forward and bright sounding. Now with the addition of DAC, i am planning to spend sometime with SX6 and will move to better speakers if i don't find myself convinced. And for the capability of A1, it drives the speakers effortlessly, SX6 per website shows 89dB, but mine are 92dB and ever since the DAC is introduced they get very loud in just 30% of volume.
 
Thanks, this works! Can you suggest the listening position and height? Currently the speakers have 6ft between them, 2 feet pulled away from front wall and 1.5 feet away from side walls. The listening position is 7 feet from the speakers, i find this balanced, but the height is confusing. I currently have the woofer in-level with the ear, is this height correct?
Tweeter typically to be at ear level. But one size does not fit all so...
 
Thanks Robin for the update. This is how threads like this should be bought to conclusion. Lots of people dont do that.
Well done and back to music :)
Regards
 
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