Problem faced with Valhalla2 as pre with Audiolab 8200A as power amp - Help needed

[sound_cycle]

However this will be kind of testing agility of the power amp to get into protection mode consistently and may do some harm if it fails to get into protection mode, so its your call.

Since yours is a headphone amp as well so you can connect a pair of nice headphones instead of the amp and see if you listen something bizarre with one channel and do the tubes swap again.

In retrospect - I am very glad that I did not swap channels or other speakers to the problematic Gungnir unit. It would have undoubtedly burned them out too.

I request OPs indulgence in my asking two questions on his thread as they are on a issue of mutual concern

1. What is the definitive test before plugging a known but supposedy fixed problem device into expensive equipment following repairs. (I read the thread but got all confused)

2. If such a problem unit were to be fixed say by HPZ could I ask them to test or warranty against the possibility of causing damage to my equipment or at least ask them to carry out (1) above.

ciao
gr

 

[Deleted member 15865]

In retrospect - I am very glad that I did not swap channels or other speakers to the problematic Gungnir unit. It would have undoubtedly burned them out too.

I request OPs indulgence in my asking two questions on his thread as they are on a issue of mutual concern

1. What is the definitive test before plugging a known but supposedy fixed problem device into expensive equipment following repairs. (I read the thread but got all confused)

2. If such a problem unit were to be fixed say by HPZ could I ask them to test or warranty against the possibility of causing damage to my equipment or at least ask them to carry out (1) above.

ciao
gr

I have raised the warranty claim today and awaiting a response. I cannot answer the questions. What I’d do is if they take back the unit, repair or replace it, I shall then plug it back into my system and check if the problem is solved. My power amp has protection cirucitry and I shall depend on the same. Also, I can check the output for DC voltage using a multimeter again.

Incidentally, the website where I raised the claim says HPZ doesn’t have a repair facility for this product and if the claim is approved, just replace it.

 

[Deleted member 15865]

In retrospect - I am very glad that I did not swap channels or other speakers to the problematic Gungnir unit. It would have undoubtedly burned them out too.

I request OPs indulgence in my asking two questions on his thread as they are on a issue of mutual concern

1. What is the definitive test before plugging a known but supposedy fixed problem device into expensive equipment following repairs. (I read the thread but got all confused)

2. If such a problem unit were to be fixed say by HPZ could I ask them to test or warranty against the possibility of causing damage to my equipment or at least ask them to carry out (1) above.

ciao
gr

Did they repair/replace your Gungnir unit? What happened with the warranty claim? How was your experience with HPZ service?

 

[Kannan]

In retrospect - I am very glad that I did not swap channels or other speakers to the problematic Gungnir unit. It would have undoubtedly burned them out too.

I request OPs indulgence in my asking two questions on his thread as they are on a issue of mutual concern

1. What is the definitive test before plugging a known but supposedy fixed problem device into expensive equipment following repairs. (I read the thread but got all confused)

2. If such a problem unit were to be fixed say by HPZ could I ask them to test or warranty against the possibility of causing damage to my equipment or at least ask them to carry out (1) above.

ciao
gr

Yes, this can be critical. I had a horrible experience recently, when a BNIB pre blew both my tweeters. I later found that the pre had a major short in one board.

The 1st thing you should check with amps is DC offset. It is a simple check and just needs a basic multimeter. Anything in the range of 0 to 20 milli volts is fine...anything upto 50 will not harm your speakers, but anything above that is not a great sign. Recently my friend purchased an used ADcom GFA 535 mkii and the right channel offset was an incredibly high 5 volts.

Second thing is to keep a pair of raw drivers, could be anything, buy something cheap and power first with that to hear for any pops during switch on or off or any hum.

 

[sound_cycle]

Incidentally, the website where I raised the claim says HPZ doesn’t have a repair facility for this product and if the claim is approved, just replace it.

yes. that is where I had to raise my warranty claim too.

Did they repair/replace your Gungnir unit? What happened with the warranty claim? How was your experience with HPZ service?

It is in progress. They are not replacing the unit as stated on their website but are fixing it. It is not rocket science (to me it is) but I am hoping that they do it competently.

I will quake and tremble in fear before connecting a pair of speakers to it and would feel much better if I could test it for myself with some highly reliable and doable by a ignoramodoofus and make sure that everything is A1tiptop. In my case my speakers blew before Vidar protectionmode faulted so that is neither test nor protection

ciao
gr

 

[Deleted member 15865]

yes. that is where I had to raise my warranty claim too.


It is in progress. They are not replacing the unit as stated on their website but are fixing it. It is not rocket science (to me it is) but I am hoping that they do it competently.

I will quake and tremble in fear before connecting a pair of speakers to it and would feel much better if I could test it for myself with some highly reliable and doable by a ignoramodoofus and make sure that everything is A1tiptop. In my case my speakers blew before Vidar protectionmode faulted so that is neither test nor protection

ciao
gr

Luckily I have power amp from another, possibly more quality conscious manufacturer - Audiolab. The protection circuitry works. In your case the power amp is also from Schiit, whose QC now I am coming to doubt.

 

[Deleted member 15865]

All my other components (except the DAC and preamp from Schiit) are British. I am getting convinced once again that I prefer UK/Europe over the US. Whether for visiting, or sourcing.

I might be over-generalising. What is the general experience of FMs on components from UK/Europe vs US? And in particular experience with Schiit products?

 

[Deleted member 15865]

Guys, I had written to Headphonezone about my problem and raised a warranty claim with the snapshots and the readings. I got a response from them after waiting for three days. Read for yourself:

“The brand has confirmed that the unit is working fine. Here's the update provided by the brand:

"As listed in the FAQ section of the manual, the Valhalla 2 must be turned on first and be allowed to stabilize before turning the power amp on. The customer must wait AT LEAST 30 seconds before turning on the amp. When turning off, the power amp must be turned off first and then the Valhalla 2 may be turned off."”

Yes, it’s shocking. It does not in anyway address my problem, well, it doesn’t event acknowledge the same. Why am I not surprised? Well, I am an Indian customer.

FWIW, I have asked HPZ to ask the brand to confirm me in writing that the DC voltage values I have sent them proof of are normal. And that I don’t wait just for 30 secs as advised, but a good 5 mins before I switch on the power amp and follow sequence every single time.

I hope this experience sharing helps current and future customers of the brand and the channel.

 

[Kannan]

I hope this experience sharing helps current and future customers of the brand and the channel.

I also suggest you directly raise a ticket on the Schiit support site.

Schiit Support

 

[Deleted member 15865]

I also suggest you directly raise a ticket on the Schiit support site.

Schiit Support

Kannan,

I’d do the same. But I don’t feel hopeful. Also, without the dealer’s support it won’t be feasible for me to ship the unit al the way to US for return/repair.

 

[Kannan]

Kannan,

I’d do the same. But I don’t feel hopeful. Also, without the dealer’s support it won’t be feasible for me to ship the unit al the way to US for return/repair.

They are normally quick at responding. Just get another technical assessment of the issue at hand directly from them and see of the response is same as when routed via the Indian seller

 

[jls001]

Guys, I had written to Headphonezone about my problem and raised a warranty claim with the snapshots and the readings. I got a response from them after waiting for three days. Read for yourself:

“The brand has confirmed that the unit is working fine. Here's the update provided by the brand:

Looks like a standard "scripted" reply by level 1 support staff who won't know much about the technical aspects. Escalate to Schiit as suggested by Kannan, including the HPZ reply in your message. Emphasise that the unit is certainly not okay by its effect on a device connected after it, or by repeatable measurements. Include a link to @sound_cycle posts on this thread where he had mentioned of similar problems on Schiit products to prove that your's is not an isolated case.

 

[mpw]

My experience with HPZ with after sales is not too good but that's another story.

Do write to Schiit and ask them if there is a Norse word for... Defective product ?

Sorry about this...

 

[jls001]

Do write to Schiit and ask them if there is a Norse word for... Defective product ?

Thorred, may be?

 

[Deleted member 15865]

I have raised a complaint on the Schiit website and an awaiting their revert. I have lost trust and hope with Headphonezone. If I don’t get the problem addressed by Schiit, do you guys think a competent local repairer would be able to repair? Are the Schiit amplifiers made to be repaired?

 

[Deleted member 15865]

By the way, I tried a Lyrita DHT line preamp (from a helpful owner in my city) in the place of Valhalla2 in my system and it worked fine, without triggering any protection cut offs with my Audiolab 8200A power amp. Also it sounded well. In comparison to the Valhalla 2, the Lyrita DHT had more body and throw, better with male voice (especially the throaty ones), and rock music rocked better (perhaps due to the added body in the drum beats). The only relative downside was while my system with Valhalla 2 sounded like the singer and musicians were in the room in front of me (more focus, defined boundaries to each instrument), the system sounded like I am listening to live performance in an (good) auditorium with the Lyrita DHT preamp. I felt I’d enjoy rock and big band music with the Lyrita and vocals etc with Valhalla 2 better. Was I hearing right? Would you expect similar performance difference between the two? Note that this Lyrita DHT had the rectifier tube rolled to 5V4G from RCA.

I have to decide if to go for the Lyrita DHT in case the Valhalla 2 cannot be brought back to safe use. Or even if it is.