Tuba HT build

Nice to see the progress.
It seems that you have used both MDF and ply for the construction, is there any specific reason? If possible, its better use the same material esp when using MDF.

Did you readjusted the measurements for 18mm mdf instead of 12mm ply (as per the design)?

Instead of the nut n bolt for fixing the driver, better use t-nuts for easy maintenance.

This driver doesnt have any gasket like other dayton drivers, better use chaulk or a rubber gasket for a good seal.
 
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Nice to see the progress.
It seems that you have used both MDF and ply for the construction, is there any specific reason? If possible, its better use the same material esp when using MDF.

Did you readjusted the measurements for 18mm mdf instead of 12mm ply (as per the design)?

Instead of the nut n bolt for fixing the driver, better use t-nuts for easy maintaining.

This driver doesnt have any gasket like other dayton drivers, better use chaulk or a rubber gasket for a good seal.

While cutting MDF, my brother made a mistake and I have replaced that panel with ply since no MDF sheets where available. I think ply is stronger than MDF so it didn't affect my build. I have done very miner adjustments to use the 3/4 inch MDF instead of 1/2 inch. Build was actually smooth but took little extra time to figure things out. Also i was away for a week otherwise would have finished one week earlier. I have actually bought the t-nuts but it was little over size and decided to use the nuts and bolt. May be i will replace before fixing the side panel.

One question for you sajith, In the Tuba HT design the driver access hole is in the side. And do we have to seal it while using the sub or just keep it opened (Just like ported). He is not mentioning that in detail. I have made the hole in the front to fit the amp. I am yet to cut the driver access hole on the side panel.
 
All his tuba HT designs are based on sealed enclosure with tapped horn. So the driver enclosure has to be sealed properly and you need to make sure that there is no air leak from the enclosure to the horn side also. Probably it would have mentioned somewhere in the document as it is a mandatory requirement. Neoprene is best for this.

Also did you check with Bill on the compatibility of this driver as the recommended driver is a different one from Dayton.

Since you are not using any screws to hold the panels, there may be a slight possibility of warping (not much) and due to the difference in strength of the mdf and ply the warping can be uneven and if any joint is not sealed properly, it can lead to leakage which will degrade the performance.

While converting from 12mm ply to 18mm mdf (ply will be 19mm) you need to make sure the horn path distance is same as before along with the horn area and volume. In any case there should not be any compression in the horn path else distortion will be the result.
 
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Wow, this looks like a serious build. What are the outer dimensions (length, breadth, height)? This should easily do sub-20 Hz, say 16 Hz? Does kit include driver and plate amp?
 
Wow, this looks like a serious build. What are the outer dimensions (length, breadth, height)? This should easily do sub-20 Hz, say 16 Hz? Does kit include driver and plate amp?

The design can be bought from the designer himself and can be assembled using the recommeded drivers. Tube HT is available in 2 versions (36" x 36" x 24" and 72" x 18" x 24"). This build is based on the first one.

I had built the 72" version and there is already one thread on that build. Hope to see similar builds in the forum.

Following are some of the qualities in this design compared to some high end models:

- Very Low distortion (claim is that it has less distortion than 10000$ Genelec HTS 6)
- Very clean / tight / deep / fast bass esp upto 20Hz. It will start rolling off ~<20Hz but it can deliver ~100db with room gain and corner loading and can really go ~16Hz
- No Boominess at all
 
I have bought the driver sealing tape along with the driver from parts-express. I can use that for sealing the side pannel. I think Anabond(polyurethane Adhessive) also can be used for sealing/Gluing. It is little expenssive around Rs. 250. Fitted the amp on the front and looking nice.


 
I am not able to see the pics (blocked here). Where have you fixed the amp, on the driver enclosure? The design is w/o the amp and it will reduce the effective volume of the sealed enclosure. The amp can be placed outside the enclosure in a separate box.

The driver access panel should not be glued and it should be sealed and tightened using T-nut n bolt.
 
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I have fitted the amp in the front of the tuba just above the tuba mouth. I will not seal the driver access slot which is on the side. I am planning to install plexi glass cover(with air tight seal ofcourse) with changing color LED's. The dual color LED should change the color according to the amp's output to the driver. Two diffrent value resisters in series to the LED will do the job. Have to figure out the values though.
 
From your description it is not clear where have you fixed the amp, will check in the evening. But if it is above the mouth, then it will come in the horn path, right?
 
Sajith, Is it possible to audition your tuba? You are welcome to audition mine so that we can compare one I finish it. I am staying near HSR Layout. What abt you?
 
Always welcome. I am staying near to ITPL.

I could locate the amp position. It will reduce the internal volume of the sealed chamber. Dont know whether it will affect the SQ wrt the 24" build. It may not be a big problem since the width of the tuba is variable.
 
Did some painting yesterday. Connected the amp and tested it for vibration. I am getting some cabin vibration after a high volume test. The side panel is not yet installed which could be cousing vibration. Going to reinforce the cabin some more.



 
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