Why Idlers Sound Different from Direct Drives

jls001

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Nice explanations on why different implementations and approaches to record playing produce differing sounds. Example turntables are the venerable Thorens TD 124 (idler) and the equally venerable Technics SP 10 Mark II (direct drive with motor controller).

http://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=5529.0

This post is enlightening, and the analogy beautiful:

Quote:
I have not set up the Lenco yet, but I have replinthed, rebuilt the motor and replaced the thrust plate, motor grommets and ball bearing on the td-124 and it has lovely sound. All that David says about lingering decay of instruments and musicality that is describable if not explicable is there. I will, however, take a stab at it. In looking at sites that have info on rebuilding the sp-10 power supply, they discuss the early current draw when the unit is switched on and spun up to speed. Once the unit is at speed the ps cuts down the current to a few milliamps, which is all that is necessary to keep the unit spinning at speed. When confronted with a complex passage of music, the microscopic slowing is detected and compensated for by the feedback circuit in the motor. When the demand is gone, the unit reduces its higher current draw. The idlers we love work more like a washing machine. They go on and spin off of wall current and are speed regulated by the frequency of our voltage and the friction in the unit. Rather than having adjustable power supplies, these units are wasteful and are adjusted in speed with the use of brakes which apply more friction against the motor to slow it down. With the added inertial of a heavy platter, I think the idler rolls like a freight train and things that get in the way are blown through as if they were not there because of their negligible impact against the force of the system. The SP-10 with its adjusting current load is like a truck that changes gear as it meets hills and sometimes slows on the bumps before picking up speed and eases off the gas on the flats. Although it is more efficient, it misses some of the attack and when it passes a complex passage it eases off causing a loss of decay.

Sorry for the long diatribe, but I think these decks can be improved by adding rather than reducing intertia and friction. The engineers from Technics used to demonstrate the power of these tables by inviting users to place a record brush on a moving record and press down with force. Rather than stopping, the deck would compensate for the added load and spin on at constant speed. These turntables are designed for a greater load than they usually carry and may be poorly used as currently implemented. Perhaps a more viscous lubricant in the bearing, a heavy copper platter instead of a mat, and record weight could be accommodated by this design. An overhanging record brush, or two, may give the table the need to put out a little more power on all passages and may bring forward the attack and decay that some users find lacking. I wonder...

Unquote:

Emphases mine.
 
The flywheel effect of a heavy platter is the key, maybe.

Higher starting torque of the motor (in case of direct drives) may be given a miss, as, it might be felt that there is as such no big deal for the platter to attain the desired rpm from the very go itself .... other than usage in a radio transmission station (which used to be important once upon a time)!
 
My vinyl listening changed completely after I got my Garrard 301 and Lenco L 75s modified. To be frank, when you compare these idlers with Technics 1200, I find that SL-1200 is just an 'also ran' TT and cannot match the strength of these idlers in delivering the timing and warmness I like in my taste of listening. The Technics has a lot of shortcomings when compared. Before getting the garrads, I thought the SL-1200 was supreme. But SL-1200 has its good points. It is excellent to listen to rock music where the drums sound very realistic but overall , it lacks the punch that idlers have. I am now going to modify two more idlers, one a Lenco L 75 and the other is a rare Micro Siekie idler whelel player which looks very tweakable. I will post the details when i come to doing the modifications
kuruvilajacob
 
I would really love to hear well set up direct drives like Technics SP10, or a Kenwood L-07D, or a Pioneer P3a Exclusive, or a top of the line Sony/Micro Seiki/Pansonic DD. And also well setup, highly-regarded belt drives.

My DD experience is limited to mid-fi stuff so I have not been impressed, but I know there is more to DDs.

My belt drive experience is a mixed bag.
 
I love my Lenco L70. I love it so much in fact that my Rega P3-24 is collecting dust and hasn't been played in months!

One thing I noticed about the Lenco is that if I put my ear close to the TT, I can hear a whirring sound. This doesn't come out in the music fortunately, but I'm wondering what the best way is to get rid of the noise.
 
Even my vintage HMV is of idler type. However, I do hear a very faint hum of the motor in the overall SQ. It does bother sometimes, when the number is on the quieter side. But, must say, the pace and the attack on the sound signature is very addictive.

I think this hum has something to do with the in-built phono stage in the TT.
 
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Even my vintage HMV is of idler type. However, I do hear a very faint hum of the motor in the overall SQ. It does bother sometimes, when the number is on the quieter side. But, must say, the pace and the attack on the sound signature is very addictive.

I think this hum has something to do with the in-built phono stage in the TT.

IMHO, i think the hum is the low frequency vibration of the motor, getting transferred to the platter through the idler wheel, & then to the tonearm cartridge through the record on the platter. I think it should be a common problem with the idler drives? What others think in this regard? Older HMVs esp the inexpensive ones used just a simple low pass filter capacitor for RIAA equalisation (if that happened at all!) which boosted low frequencies & cut higher ones. Then there was the oppositte; a high pass filter at the colume control to boost some higher frequencies which were little cleaner than that at cartridge stage. So some hum was always carried to the speakers.
Thats my thinking,
Saket
 
I love my Lenco L70. I love it so much in fact that my Rega P3-24 is collecting dust and hasn't been played in months!

And that's with a stock L70. And stock arm.

Sir, you need to get that re-plinthing done. The Lenco idlers are capable of real footstomping playback. But I suggest change of arm and cart too to milk the potential of the L70.
 
I prefer my Technics direct drive for its speed accuracy. A decent part of my vinyl collection is instrumental and hence, speed and pitch is a vital requirement. My dad's old Garrard used to have a bit more punch but I'm staying on in direct driver country for now.
 
Joshua,
little difficult to fathom what would dominate the sound quality. Stylus drag of 1.5 gm force on 0.5 mil. stylus tip or 4 kg. heavy platter on a bearing. Though I would worry about speed manipulation by electronics running direct drive DC* motor more than torque and stylus drag by vinyl modulations.
But I will take your word for it and do some crude :D experiments on my cheap direct drive table. As I have ordinary turntable and tin ears will think about some other proper evaluating method.
* DC motors if not given proper power supply will sag under load.
Regards
 
Joshua,
little difficult to fathom what would dominate the sound quality. Stylus drag of 1.5 gm force on 0.5 mil. stylus tip or 4 kg. heavy platter on a bearing. Though I would worry about speed manipulation by electronics running direct drive DC* motor more than torque and stylus drag by vinyl modulations.
But I will take your word for it and do some crude :D experiments on my cheap direct drive table. As I have ordinary turntable and tin ears will think about some other proper evaluating method.
* DC motors if not given proper power supply will sag under load.
Regards

I think the comparison mentioned was relevant for any drive that has continuous negative feedback that increases or decreases current flow to the motor based on program material. The idea behind the SP10's reduced current flow at normal playing speed is to reduce power consumption. Perhaps it does its job of using less power admirably, but being an electro-mechanical device, it has a certain momentum (a lethargy, if you will) despite being very reputed to be torquey, and takes some finite time to build up current when called upon to do so. I would liken this to a tap with finely controllable nozzle, with water trickling at a low uniform rate. When called upon to produce a gush, it will take some time to achieve full gush. By the time it does, however, the need for the gush may no longer be there (in the program material).

On the other hand, an idler without fancy nozzle control is an open tap that always flows in a gush, irrespective of whether it is needed or not. The available gush is more than enough to meet most needs.

Unless you use a belt drive with a very low torque motor, you should not really worry whether stylus drag would slow down speed. Nevertheless, stylus drag is a reality, and the quantity can be calculated by the mathematically inclined. I am taking it for granted that the design engineers have done this for me. One simple test is to use a record brush to clean a record while spinning it (without the stylus dropped, of course). Press brush down on record harder than usual and see if motor is able to keep up speed. One can even use a strobe disc to check for speed change while doing this "highly scientific" experiment:).
 
I have never had the opportunity to listen to an SP-10 . I believe it has high torque and keeps accurate speed. But I have heard many other lesser known DD players of Technics including the SL-1200 and can definitely say that the big idler wheel players sound more energetic and engaging especially if you compare on the same system. Fortunately for me ,most of the tonearms of my idler and Technics have universal shells and comparisons are made easy. But recently, I compared Denon DP-60 L with my top Idlers and surprisingly, it sounded in a league better than normal DDs including SL-1200. But over all, the Idlers will better DD or belt drive provided the idlers are well damped IMO.
 
If criteria is comparing, what about Belt Drives ? I think they are good middle ground. ...motor is isolated.... belt dampens the low fq. vibrations*....pretty good torque...large pulley** to prevent belt slip and creep....slower rpm than idler motor....AC synchronous motor so no electronics to mess with speed... ???
and takes some finite time to build up current when called upon to do so.
Unless manufacturers are hard pressed to cut cost using cheap parts I think a good transformer and capacitor (current buildup) can solve the problem of current/voltage requirements. Wait... this is another experiment for TEML Inc.*** I am noob but I think I can measure on transformer milivolts/miliamps required when stylus is running on modulated groove and silent passage. This will require turntable to be opened and multimeter which can measure these tiny amounts. Will try and post.
Regards
*Cleaner punchy bass just like idlers.
** Linn LP12, thorens td-160
***Turntable Experiments Mad Lab Incorporation. :lol:
 
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