Building My First True Audiophile-Grade Custom 2-Way Bookshelf Speaker System – Modular, Bi-Amplified & Active Crossover

[MultimediaWallah]

Hi everyone,

I’m excited to share my ambitious DIY project: building my very first true audiophile-grade stereo speaker system that aims for exceptional sound and stunning aesthetics.

The system will be fully modular, made up of four distinct and named components, inspired by high-end luxury audio gear:

1. VoltSmith: A high-fidelity power supply unit with precise voltage/current displays and safety indicators.
2. activeXcross: A minimalist second-order active crossover with an adjustable slider for setting the crossover frequency between 900 Hz and 3 kHz.
3. JuiceBox 400: A Class D bi-amplifier box housing four dedicated amplifier boards for woofers and tweeters, complete with analog VU meters and controls.
4. Sealed Bookshelf Speakers: My custom-built speakers will feature Doogesound DE650K-01 kevlar woofers and DE15-04 silk dome tweeters in sealed enclosures.

Each speaker enclosure will be built from 18mm thick MDF, sized around 14 to 15 liters internal volume. The external surfaces will be finished with 3mm piano finish acrylic sheets to create that mirror-gloss luxury look often seen in top-tier audiophile systems. To combine durability, emi shielding, and premium style, the MDF will be wrapped in aluminium sheets in the exterior before pasting the glossy acrylic for all the modules except the sealed speakers (they do not need shielding).

To add a bespoke professional flair, each box will carry a custom 3D-printed badge featuring the unique names I’ve given every modular unit, reinforcing the identity and “pro” aesthetic.

I have some questions.

1. Is the internal volume calculation is correct in my part for a sealed enclosure?
2. Would it make a difference if i go with class b amplifier instead of class d especially for the woofers?
3. Having a modular setup like this isn’t a bad idea right?
4. The chosen drivers are good for this project?
5. Planning to use speakpn connectors or banana connectors for binding which is a better choice? And why?
6. Is this active crossover actually going to make a difference in this system or i must be good with a passive crossoVer? Budget and complexity isnt the issue if it improves on the qualiTy?

Excited for this journey and the learning it will bring!

 

[mahaaprasaad]

Hi everyone,

I’m excited to share my ambitious DIY project: building my very first true audiophile-grade stereo speaker system that aims for exceptional sound and stunning aesthetics.

The system will be fully modular, made up of four distinct and named components, inspired by high-end luxury audio gear:

1. VoltSmith: A high-fidelity power supply unit with precise voltage/current displays and safety indicators.
2. activeXcross: A minimalist second-order active crossover with an adjustable slider for setting the crossover frequency between 900 Hz and 3 kHz.
3. JuiceBox 400: A Class D bi-amplifier box housing four dedicated amplifier boards for woofers and tweeters, complete with analog VU meters and controls.
4. Sealed Bookshelf Speakers: My custom-built speakers will feature Doogesound DE650K-01 kevlar woofers and DE15-04 silk dome tweeters in sealed enclosures.

Each speaker enclosure will be built from 18mm thick MDF, sized around 14 to 15 liters internal volume. The external surfaces will be finished with 3mm piano finish acrylic sheets to create that mirror-gloss luxury look often seen in top-tier audiophile systems. To combine durability, emi shielding, and premium style, the MDF will be wrapped in aluminium sheets in the exterior before pasting the glossy acrylic for all the modules except the sealed speakers (they do not need shielding).

To add a bespoke professional flair, each box will carry a custom 3D-printed badge featuring the unique names I’ve given every modular unit, reinforcing the identity and “pro” aesthetic.

I have some questions.

1. Is the internal volume calculation is correct in my part for a sealed enclosure?
2. Would it make a difference if i go with class b amplifier instead of class d especially for the woofers?
3. Having a modular setup like this isn’t a bad idea right?
4. The chosen drivers are good for this project?
5. Planning to use speakpn connectors or banana connectors for binding which is a better choice? And why?
6. Is this active crossover actually going to make a difference in this system or i must be good with a passive crossoVer? Budget and complexity isnt the issue if it improves on the qualiTy?

Excited for this journey and the learning it will bring!

Images please...

 

[rwnano]

Hi everyone,

I’m excited to share my ambitious DIY project: building my very first true audiophile-grade stereo speaker system that aims for exceptional sound and stunning aesthetics.

The system will be fully modular, made up of four distinct and named components, inspired by high-end luxury audio gear:

1. VoltSmith: A high-fidelity power supply unit with precise voltage/current displays and safety indicators.
2. activeXcross: A minimalist second-order active crossover with an adjustable slider for setting the crossover frequency between 900 Hz and 3 kHz.
3. JuiceBox 400: A Class D bi-amplifier box housing four dedicated amplifier boards for woofers and tweeters, complete with analog VU meters and controls.
4. Sealed Bookshelf Speakers: My custom-built speakers will feature Doogesound DE650K-01 kevlar woofers and DE15-04 silk dome tweeters in sealed enclosures.

Each speaker enclosure will be built from 18mm thick MDF, sized around 14 to 15 liters internal volume. The external surfaces will be finished with 3mm piano finish acrylic sheets to create that mirror-gloss luxury look often seen in top-tier audiophile systems. To combine durability, emi shielding, and premium style, the MDF will be wrapped in aluminium sheets in the exterior before pasting the glossy acrylic for all the modules except the sealed speakers (they do not need shielding).

To add a bespoke professional flair, each box will carry a custom 3D-printed badge featuring the unique names I’ve given every modular unit, reinforcing the identity and “pro” aesthetic.

I have some questions.

1. Is the internal volume calculation is correct in my part for a sealed enclosure?
2. Would it make a difference if i go with class b amplifier instead of class d especially for the woofers?
3. Having a modular setup like this isn’t a bad idea right?
4. The chosen drivers are good for this project?
5. Planning to use speakpn connectors or banana connectors for binding which is a better choice? And why?
6. Is this active crossover actually going to make a difference in this system or i must be good with a passive crossoVer? Budget and complexity isnt the issue if it improves on the qualiTy?

Excited for this journey and the learning it will bring!

You probably need to check in some other diy audio forums as well...

 

[Kannan]

@MultimediaWallah For designing HIGH FIDELITY SPEAKERS, you need acute knowledge of measurement and analysis tools like REW and the corresponding equipment like caliberated mics etc. to build the crossover (active or passive).
Not that I am discouraging you, please go through the diyaudio forum https://www.diyaudio.com/community/, you will find umpteen builds and threads with valuable information.
If you want to have the pleasure of building one, then go with time tested designs (many are available) where you can source the drivers and crossover parts locally. Here no measurements are needed and you can just follow the specifications provided by the designer.
If you want to go active, get a minimum good quality DSP like miniDSP etc., else the output will be quite degraded.

 

[arunvenkats]

Hi everyone,

I’m excited to share my ambitious DIY project: building my very first true audiophile-grade stereo speaker system that aims for exceptional sound and stunning aesthetics.

The system will be fully modular, made up of four distinct and named components, inspired by high-end luxury audio gear:

1. VoltSmith: A high-fidelity power supply unit with precise voltage/current displays and safety indicators.
2. activeXcross: A minimalist second-order active crossover with an adjustable slider for setting the crossover frequency between 900 Hz and 3 kHz.
3. JuiceBox 400: A Class D bi-amplifier box housing four dedicated amplifier boards for woofers and tweeters, complete with analog VU meters and controls.
4. Sealed Bookshelf Speakers: My custom-built speakers will feature Doogesound DE650K-01 kevlar woofers and DE15-04 silk dome tweeters in sealed enclosures.

Each speaker enclosure will be built from 18mm thick MDF, sized around 14 to 15 liters internal volume. The external surfaces will be finished with 3mm piano finish acrylic sheets to create that mirror-gloss luxury look often seen in top-tier audiophile systems. To combine durability, emi shielding, and premium style, the MDF will be wrapped in aluminium sheets in the exterior before pasting the glossy acrylic for all the modules except the sealed speakers (they do not need shielding).

To add a bespoke professional flair, each box will carry a custom 3D-printed badge featuring the unique names I’ve given every modular unit, reinforcing the identity and “pro” aesthetic.

I have some questions.

1. Is the internal volume calculation is correct in my part for a sealed enclosure?
2. Would it make a difference if i go with class b amplifier instead of class d especially for the woofers?
3. Having a modular setup like this isn’t a bad idea right?
4. The chosen drivers are good for this project?
5. Planning to use speakpn connectors or banana connectors for binding which is a better choice? And why?
6. Is this active crossover actually going to make a difference in this system or i must be good with a passive crossoVer? Budget and complexity isnt the issue if it improves on the qualiTy?

Excited for this journey and the learning it will bring!

All the best!

Do you have the data sheets for the Doogesound drivers? I am not able to find them on their website.

Regards,
Arun

 

[MultimediaWallah]

Images please...

Images of what?

 

[MultimediaWallah]

@MultimediaWallah For designing HIGH FIDELITY SPEAKERS, you need acute knowledge of measurement and analysis tools like REW and the corresponding equipment like caliberated mics etc. to build the crossover (active or passive).
Not that I am discouraging you, please go through the diyaudio forum https://www.diyaudio.com/community/, you will find umpteen builds and threads with valuable information.
If you want to have the pleasure of building one, then go with time tested designs (many are available) where you can source the drivers and crossover parts locally. Here no measurements are needed and you can just follow the specifications provided by the designer.
If you want to go active, get a minimum good quality DSP like miniDSP etc., else the output will be quite degraded.

I wont say acute knowledge but with what i can, i am doing this build mainly to understand audio better

Like for the speakers i am going with a sealed enclosure with a target qtc of 1.2, because achieving 0.707 butterworth alignment isnt practically possible with my Doogesound DE650K woofers.

And @arunvenkats here you go:

SPECIFICATIONS of Doogesound DE650K Woofers:​

• Nominal diameter: 6.5 inch
• Nominal impedance: 8 ohms
• Power rating: 120W
• Sensitivity(1w\1m): 87.09dB
• Frequency range: 55Hz-5KHz
• Voice coil diameter: Ф30
• Magnet dimension: 100*45*20
• Fs: 57.67 Hz
• Re: 6.319 Ohms
• Qms: 5.758
• Qes: 1.116
• Qts: 0.935
• Vas: 15.2 liters
• Cms: 0.614 mm/N
• n.(%): 0.249 %
• BI: 5.043

SPECIFICATIONS of Doogesound DE15 04 Silk Dome Tweeters:​

• Nominal Diameter - 4 Inch(104mm)
• Nominal Impedance - 8 Ohms
• Resonance Frequency - 900Hz
• Sensitivity, 1W/1m(E) - 92dB
• Power Capacity ,RMS(Pe) - 40W
• Power Capacity ,Peak - 50W
• Frequency Range(-10dB) - Fo--20 kHz
• Voice Coil - 26mm
• Winding Width - 2mm
• Former - 2
• Wire Type - CCWA & FERRO FUILD ADDED
• Magnet - 70mm Barium ferrite
• Cone Material - Armilla
• Frame - ABS Plastic
• Cone Size - 30mm

As mentioned before i am using 18mm mdf for the construction.

I firstly want to know if choice of drivers are good enough!
Also is qtc 1.2 too high?
Also what are the other improvements i can do in my planned build!

 

[mahaaprasaad]

Images of what?

I mean, any reference or prototype designs for the speaker build, as your explanation on the same is quite interesting..... and said "inspired by high-end luxury audio gear".

 

[yogibear]

Damn high Qts on the woofers.... Reminds me of the Open baffles days...