Cartridge Alignment Protractors

AmitKumar

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Hello Forum Members,

Hope all of you are doing well in your life and staying safe in these unprecedented times.
I have been out of the HiFi world for the last few years due to family and work commitments, Now slowly trying to get back to this wonderful world of music.

I came across Cartridge Alignment Protractors online, certain websites selling them and then few free printable versions also. I did search through our forum and found some bits and pieces of information on the subject. I thought it might be worthwhile to have information about Cartridge Alignment Protractors in one single thread.

Actually till a few days back I didn't not even know that these protractors existed. Cartridges of the two TTs that I have were aligned by esteemed forum members before they were sent to me. So coming back to the basic question, are these protractors really required?. Now I understand there are different types of protractors available, how should one choose which one to follow?. Also do we use the free downloadable versions or buy the commercial ones?

Requesting forum members who have expertise in Turntables to give their view/suggestions.

Regards, Amit.
 
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They are useful if you are setting up a new cartridge/Tonearm, but if already setup then they are not really needed. They usually help in reducing distortions. While there are generic protractors, you also have some specific to a tonearm. Most tonearms do recommend the best match protractor

The Mint LP protractor is actually specific to a Tonearm and Turntable combination and supposedly the most accurate.
 
This post is such a coincidence. I bought a new turntable which game without a cartridge so I am also attaching a cartridge and am facing problems with my record skipping. so I've downloaded a cartridge alignment protractor to see if I can align the cartridge properly to resolve these issues. Here's the Google search link for the one I downloaded, it's the first item on the search page, I am unable to copy the link for the actual website on my phone keypad hence have copied the Google search link
 
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So coming back to the basic question, are these protractors really required?. Now I understand there are different types of protractors available, how should one choose which one to follow?. Also do we use the free downloadable versions or buy the commercial ones?
Yes, they are really required.

Please read up on the differences between different flavours of protractors. These protractors try to do one of three things:

a/ reduce the amount of distortion mainly at the outer grooves of the record
b/ reduce the amount of distortion mainly at the inner grooves of the record
c/ spread the reduction uniformly.

Every tonearm is uniquely designed and must have a unique protractor but we usually don't get them from the OEMs so a compromise is to use one of these free downloads. It's won't be the best but good enough for most usage.

You could download the free custom arc template generator from Conrad Hoffman here:

 
Cartridge protractors are easily available online but the trick is to be able to print them out to the right size with dimensional accuracy. I have always found the ones supplied by the tonearm manufacturer to be the most accurate. Having said that if you can carefully print one out and paste it onto an old record. It would serve you well. Here is an example.
 

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Tough subject. For the last 10 years, I am trying to align cartridges in one of my turntables. I have tried with almost all available protractors but I failed to align cartridges accurately. I have observed that cartridges have to be twisted towards the spindle in every case. But it increases distortion. I have noticed that if I move the cartridge at the back end of a headshell, stylus comes closer to the null points but not exactly. What I concluded is if the tonearm would have been shorter by some mm or if I get a headshell with wider mounting gaps, I might have aligned a cartridge. The protractor which came with my Shure M97XE, is the best in this case, I mean to say with this protractor, stylus comes very close to the null points & almost parallel to the lines. Lastly, if you go on experimenting without protractors, your ears will definitely tell you one day which is the right position.

Regards
 
Hi,
I did this from standard protractor. Its laser etched on mirror acrylic.
Also use VTA Scale.

Regards
Nishant
 

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Tough subject. For the last 10 years, I am trying to align cartridges in one of my turntables. I have tried with almost all available protractors but I failed to align cartridges accurately. I have observed that cartridges have to be twisted towards the spindle in every case. But it increases distortion. I have noticed that if I move the cartridge at the back end of a headshell, stylus comes closer to the null points but not exactly. What I concluded is if the tonearm would have been shorter by some mm or if I get a headshell with wider mounting gaps, I might have aligned a cartridge. The protractor which came with my Shure M97XE, is the best in this case, I mean to say with this protractor, stylus comes very close to the null points & almost parallel to the lines. Lastly, if you go on experimenting without protractors, your ears will definitely tell you one day which is the right position.

Regards
When i was a kid, my father taught me to do this. His method was simple, he would more the stylus to a point just over the center spindle and ensure that the stylus tip is touches the center of the spindle. It worked well for him on manual turntables but he could not use this method on his semi-automatic garrard.

On another note, what you are referring to as 'twisted' is actually the offset angle of the cartridge or headshell which it makes with the tonearm plane. This is another topic for hot debate, some tonearms dont use the offset angle theory but expert say that pivoted tonearms without an offset angle may wear the record grooves faster. I have known of some DJs to use no offset angle for the Shure M44-7 cartridge, which ensures great tracking without skipping. For linear tracking, again offset angle is not required as the pivot point moves.

Additional notes: we often go about trying to find the right stylus alignment point, keeping the tonearm pivot as a constant. Many years ago, I was at a friend's place in England for buying some stuff. I noticed his method of installing a tonearm was odd. He would mount a stylus and cartridge on a tonearm, hold the stylus over the central point of this center spindle (had it marked with a OHP marker) and would fine the mounting point for the tonearm on the plinth, based on that. Its the converse of the spindle method of sorts :). I noticed he was not using the SME tonearm calibrating chart and as he had a SME spacer, he was able to move the pivot up and down until be got the right point :)
 
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No, not the offset angle. Twisting the cartridge makes the cantilever parallel with the lines at null points.
When i was a kid, my father taught me to do this. His method was simple, he would more the stylus to a point just over the center spindle and ensure that the stylus tip is touches the center of the spindle. It worked well for him on manual turntables but he could not use this method on his semi-automatic garrard.

On another note, what you are referring to as 'twisted' is actually the offset angle of the cartridge or headshell which it makes with the tonearm plane. This is another topic for hot debate, some tonearms dont use the offset angle theory but expert say that pivoted tonearms without an offset angle may wear the record grooves faster. I have known of some DJs to use no offset angle for the Shure M44-7 cartridge, which ensures great tracking without skipping. For linear tracking, again offset angle is not required as the pivot point moves.

Additional notes: we often go about trying to find the right stylus alignment point, keeping the tonearm pivot as a constant. Many years ago, I was at a friend's place in England for buying some stuff. I noticed his method of installing a tonearm was odd. He would mount a stylus and cartridge on a tonearm, hold the stylus over the central point of this center spindle (had it marked with a OHP marker) and would fine the mounting point for the tonearm on the plinth, based on that. Its the converse of the spindle method of sorts :). I noticed he was not using the SME tonearm calibrating chart and as he had a SME spacer, he was able to move the pivot up and down until be got the right point
 
This post is such a coincidence. I bought a new turntable which game without a cartridge so I am also attaching a cartridge and am facing problems with my record skipping. so I've downloaded a cartridge alignment protractor to see if I can align the cartridge properly to resolve these issues. Here's the Google search link for the one I downloaded, it's the first item on the search page, I am unable to copy the link for the actual website on my phone keypad hence have copied the Google search link
Hi Nikhil,

Hope the cart gets aligned and you start enjoying music.

My understanding is that there could be other reasons for record skipping. I had this issue in both of my TTs after they were not used for some time. I balanced the tone are again, adjusted the counter weight, tracking force, and anti skate. The problem was resolved after few trails.

Regards, Amit.
 
Hey, i forgot to mention, technics TT users can avoid all these complicated procedures by investing in a small overhang gauge. Its the simplest and the easiest to use. Not sure if it works for other TTs though.
 

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Also attaching 2 documents, the first set from my Shure M44-7 instruction manual and the second set from my SME 3009 tonearm user manual, for easy reference:
 

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Hey, i forgot to mention, technics TT users can avoid all these complicated procedures by investing in a small overhang gauge. Its the simplest and the easiest to use. Not sure if it works for other TTs though.
Exactly, my experience says "once you have noted the correct distance of your stylus tip, mark it in the overhang gauge this will help in aligning cartridge" At least in my case it has worked.
 
Exactly, my experience says "once you have noted the correct distance of your stylus tip, mark it in the overhang gauge this will help in aligning cartridge" At least in my case it has worked.
This is correct.

First set the overhang of the cartridge correctly, then align to null points (setting the cartridge to correct offset angle). After aligning to nulls recheck the over hang. Both overhang and offset angle MUST be correct. After this adjust the azimuth alignment if the tonearm has facility for it. Follow up with counter weight tracking force adjustment - this is the last step.
 
No, not the offset angle. Twisting the cartridge makes the cantilever parallel with the lines at null points.
Hi,

I'm curious. If not offset what is this then? From what I know twisting a cart so it's parallel to the alignment lines is offsetting the cart to line up with the two tangency points on your protractor.

Regards
 
ok, i think i understand now, i got confused with the term "twisted" :)

I believe you are referring to the Rake Angle, if yes, this is an interesting read
Hi Reuben,

This is not rake angle. Rake refers to the angle the stylus makes with the surface of the record. It's the same for practical purposes as VTA which is tonearm height. Raising the tonearm and lowering it changes the rake angle. The standard rake angle is around 92 degrees plus some decimal point which I forget. Some people use a microscope to view the stylus angle and adjust so it's exactly this angle. Of course this would change with record thicknesses so I don't really see the point but that's another discussion.

Also as per your previous post I'm wondering how your dad and that guy in England set carts to the spindle point. As far as I know all carts have an overhang measurement differing from cart to cart but there nonetheless specified by the manufacturer. Which means the stylus has to sit in front of the spindle not at it. Not sure how a proper alignment would be achieved without achieving this specified overhang distance?

Also the DJ who uses no offset probably is using an S curved tonearm where the offset is already built in with the curve of the arm and the cart itself is lined up straight achieving proper offset. Was this the case? Cos you simply cannot play a cart without offset and achieve any aligning there will be distortion all throughout!

Regards.
 
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