Denon 1612 shutting down!!!!

Was trying to put all the pointers together by going thru all the posted mails ...

Possibly, the impedance curve of the speakers is falling below the 4 ohm mark or staying there long enough ... when playing music. A lot depends on which type of music too. If, it is bass heavy, then the current draw (from the AVR) would be higher than usual at high volume levels.

The AVR is getting into the 'safety' mode whence such a thing is happening. The heat-up is activating that. So, this issue should be primarily speaker related .... the AVR is not to be blamed. Also, not saying that the speakers are bad ..... no ..... it is just that the impedance matching during some tracks is not been digested as it should ..... A higher Denon AVR ... maybe 1912 might have been trouble-free.
 
@avidyarthy ... yes u r spot on abt the summarization of the situation... the system behaves exactly as u stated ... when friends ask to play "dhin chak" music and a little louder this generally happens after a few songs...

from the day the system came i always felt that the speakers are too big and powerful for the amp ... but Denon AVR 1912 was out of budget for me ...

is there any cheaper solution like a stereo amp, bcoz 1612 does have a pre-out so can i buy a Stereo Amp around 10k and connect it to the AVR...

any particular models that u can suggest ... like norge 1000 will it be good for the speakers ....
 
Norge is a good alternative for any avr 3 times its price for music. You can play it loud for 10 hrs continously on a 4 or 8 ohm load without worrying about thermal issues. Coz the heat producing components are literally outside the unit!

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Norge is a good alternative for any avr 3 times its price for music. You can play it loud for 10 hrs continously on a 4 or 8 ohm load without worrying about thermal issues. Coz the heat producing components are literally outside the unit!

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As far as I know only the heat sink(heat dissipating component and not heat producing component) is outside the unit i.e. Connected to the backside.
Nevertheless I think Norge 1000 will be a good option.
 
As far as I know only the heat sink(heat dissipating component and not heat producing component) is outside the unit i.e. Connected to the backside.
Nevertheless I think Norge 1000 will be a good option.

Do you know the meaning of the word literally?

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Hey! Fusebulb, despite RishiG asking you a couple of times about the position of your AVR, I mean inside the cabinet or on open tabletop, you haven't mentioned it.See, if you place a cover on the top of any avr or amplifier when it is playing at high power, it will heat up very quickly.And yes, heat is the biggest killer of any output stage be it bipolars or mosfets.In short, check that the top cover of the amp which will definately have ventilation slits/holes is not covered in any way AND like RishiG, try placing a small 6 inch fan on it,pushing air UPWARDS.As hot air is lighter, it will go upwards automatically.If the thermal protection transistor in your amp has gone leacky, it will overcompensate and shut down the amp at even mid power levels.AND check your speakers for a shortened out tweeter.Se if both have the same resistance( you gotta have a multimeter for this test! )Lastly, be very careful and open the top cover of your amp, i mean just unscrew the top off and play music on it.Don't touch anything inside unless you know what you are touching.Even at low power rails like 50vdc, output stages can give you a nice nasty shock.Please get back about any of this worked or not.Logically and out of experience I daresay you have obstructed the vent holes by keeping a cdplayer/tapedeck or some plastic/cloth cover on the AVR.Remove it.Denon's not all that bad.I used to assemble cosmic amps and first denons were very similar to cosmic's co-100.Even norge's were a copy.Best luck to you.
 
@cpt blood thanks to all u guys for taking the time and replying with all your expert advise ... i am already learning quite a few things

yes abt RishiG's question now that u have come up with that again ... i had covered it with a cloth ... fearing my 5 year old son would spill water or something inside the AVR ... now that i recollect i had forgotten to remove it and it was playing with the cloth on top ... but after abt 30 mins i did play it without the cloth and same thing happened ...

Do u think the AVR was damaged bcoz of that ... or it just went into the safety mode ...
it plays fine now as i stated earlier i did test it with a movie and stereo listening but not at high volume ... fearing it would happen again.

@RishiG can u post some pictures of your PC fans attached to ur amp ... and i am wondering how will the fans be powered ... if at all even i have managed to place them on top of the AVR grill...
 
If you like to play any amp. loud the best thing to do is put an instrument fan available in computer shops over it to avoid overheating......
 
Now my another worry is of upgrading my system to 5.1 gradually ... i would start by adding a subwoofer to it ... will it aid in generating more heat if i add subwoofer to my current setup or i dont have to worry ...
 
@ fusebulb .....
upgrading to 5.1 would ease up your AVR by a lot. All you would need to do is to set the cross-over in the AVR at 100 Hz ... it would in a way transfer all frequencies at or below 100 Hz directly on to the sub-woofer. Since the sub-woofer would have its own amplification, there would be no load on the main speakers to deal with 'high current' draws from the AVR. The below 100 Hz frequencies generally need high current ... which now would be looked into by the sub-woofer amp.
Suggest, you get in touch with someone locally to set up the AVR for you, once you have decided on the speakers/sub procurement.
 
So in a way u are saying subwoofer would help in smooth running of a system, i'm glad to hear that ... yes sub would be my first buy, the center and surround will be later, as the center would also have to be a KEF brand as suggested by ProFX, it is very expensive, may be after a few months ...

what do i have to look for in a sub in terms of power specs to match the avr and the speakers ... yes and even the budget
 
I thought I knew. But never mind. You can explain it to me again.

No offence meant in my previous post bro :)
Since the sink of the Norge is outside its casing, it is more efficient in dissipating the heat produced by the power transistors. This heat producing component is almost like it is outside. This is what I meant. I do know Heat Sinks do not 'generate' heat of its own (come on yaar, this is basics and I am an Engineer :D)


So in a way u are saying subwoofer would help in smooth running of a system, i'm glad to hear that ...
what do i have to look for in a sub in terms of power specs to match the avr and the speakers ... yes and even the budget

Yes as avidyarty rightly said, once you add the subwoofer, you will offload the front speakers from producing low frequencies thereby drawing lesser power (more bass needs more current as they have to mechanically move the cones).

Regarding cooling, if you have a PC or laptop which you can spare when playing music, you could use the usb port for powering a Laptop cooling fan.
There are plenty of fancy designs which will not spoil the aesthetics of the system. Find them on ebay. Something like this:

black-plastic-quiet-2-fans-laptop-cooler.jpg


Or you can look for a cooling fan (generally the one used for PSUs in PCs). You need a separate DC power supply though - look for an AC-DC adapter on ebay with matching specs (voltage/ current). Variable output adapter is easy to find.

Or you can find a cooling fan and a mobile charger with same specifications (like 12v DC, 500 mA). It will work for sure:p
 
Denon 1612 has a USB port. Probably you can use it to power the cooler.

This is exactly what I was wondering. Does any device having a usb port, power up the connected device such as a cooling fan? I was thinking it can work only for data transfer. I am going to check it tonight with a usb light tonight. :)

If that works, the laptop cooling pad will be a fantastic option for fusebulb to manage the thermal issues. Lot of sexy designs are available. :D

antec-nbc2001.jpg
 
Nice idea ... but are u sure i can install a laptop cooling device to my AVR ... will they be powerful enuf to cool an AVR coz they must be heating up much more than a laptop...

but i will try it anyway ... a little bit of experiment won't hurt if it can save my AVR from any damage...

It will even add more beauty to the AVR

I wish i had more USB ports on my AVR ... one could have cooled it ... other can be used to play music, but i do have an LCD TV very close to the AVR which has
3 USB slots.... it can be worked upon...!!!

Thanks again for great ideas....!!!
 
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Laptops generally don't require external cooling unless some demanding games are played for long duration. On some laptops the heat generated is quite high..it should be enough for the avr o guess. Some pads have even 4 fans. Nothing wrong in trying, like you said... :)

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My AVR has a USB port in front, i wish it was at the back ... bcoz front port would kill the aesthetic value a bit bcoz the cable would be seen ... if it was at back it would look like a sci-fi unit with LED lights and all....

One doubt is does a laptop cooler suck the air upwards or downwards ... bcoz in case of an AVR it would
have to be placed on top and for laptop it is placed at the bottom....
 
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It Works!

2012-01-02202938.jpg


The air flow will be away from laptop, so you have to keep it inverted on top of the avr...

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