Many SENIORS are still buying FS. Are they not convinced a good BS+SUB is a better choice ???

Hi

Here is my 2 cents on BS and Sub.

I use a pair of BOSE 301 series III which is approximately 18 years - 20 years old......these are made in Mexico and work very well with My SR series Marantz. (The Bose what you get nowadays is no where close to these babies).

Secondly as the 301s cant really go low, I use a BIC America PL 200 sub which supposedly can go as low as 24hz...(no device to measure)...end of the day it sounds very pleasing to my ears and not boomy or muddy.

Now the AVR settings, kept the fronts at 60hz (being 8 inch drivers i know i can push to lower but these are conservative settings).

Bass Management is kept as LFE & MAIN.

LFE freq is set at 110hz........(practise makes perfect...have been experimenting from 80hz cutoff). The whole idea is to ensure that there is some overlap between the BS and Sub and no freq are lost!

Music sounds great on STEREO mode....2.1 Bass as we all know in the music industry is mono and thats what live shows typically do so no love lost there....i get good mid bass and highs from the Bose 301s ...integration is well and i dont keep fiddling with settings...

Movies it is like a proper theatre experience. I dont have a treated room...this is my small living room space where the system is set!

Most important part according to me is the quality of speaker cables, your source and quality of content used for playback...if all this is in order....nothing will go wrong.

I dont have anything against FS but honestly dont have the space. if i did, yes would get a decent pair which are 3 way so there is articulated balanced sound outputted from them. The type of drivers (cone material) also matter.
Another happy Bose user.I use my Bose 301 vintage once with a sansui amp. These are about over 40yrs old and cannot be compared with recent bs. They sound much heavier though they are just bs.
 
Another happy Bose user.I use my Bose 301 vintage once with a sansui amp. These are about over 40yrs old and cannot be compared with recent bs. They sound much heavier though they are just bs.


Agree,,,Bose of the 70s, 80s were the best....after 1992 things went haywire and cheap built quality started emerging....
 
Hi Naveen...thanks a lot for the info..the good thing about this forum is..... We get ingo that is not readily available in google. Thanks again Naveen
 
After more than three decades of audio I have learnt to not use the Sub for music. You definitely need it for the movies. How big the main speakers are, depends on the driver specs, speaker design, the room and the kind of music one listens to.
I have two 15" drivers per channel, but none of them is a sub. Even though each of the three drivers on each channel has its own dedicated amplification the woofer is still a woofer, not a sub. Just my solution, designed for my requirements and taste.

Regards,
Sharad Medhavi
 
After more than three decades of audio I have learnt to not use the Sub for music. You definitely need it for the movies. How big the main speakers are, depends on the driver specs, speaker design, the room and the kind of music one listens to.
I have two 15" drivers per channel, but none of them is a sub. Even though each of the three drivers on each channel has its own dedicated amplification the woofer is still a woofer, not a sub. Just my solution, designed for my requirements and taste.

Regards,
Sharad Medhavi

are they crossed over or both drivers run full range?
 
I saw this thread earlier. But didn't realize this is the same thing he is talking about !!! Thanks for sharing !!!☺️
 
To get a sub to integrate well with speakers. There are two things that have to match in my humble opinion :

1. Both the sub and speakers need to have the same tone of bass at the cross over frequency. Usually the 5.1 speaker packages designed by audio companies work a charm. Because the manufacturer, has considered the ideal cross over frequency range likely to be used, and will tune the included sub to have the same tone at those similar cross over frequencies. So the transition of bass from speaker to sub woofer is seamless. And one cannot make out by listening alone if the bass is still coming from main speakers or the sub.

2. Both need to have the same speed. Usually warm sounding speakers are made warm sounding by having a slower bass response. These speakers ideally match in speed with subs of driver sizes of 12 inches and above. Forward sounding speakers usually have small mid range drivers and are fast sounding. These ideally need subs of 10 inches or even 8 inches driver size to match in speed. If I were to consider adding a sub for music to my main speakers having a 7 inch bass driver, I would consider subs with twin 8 inch driver size and not a sub with a single 15 inch driver.

3. This third point is the most complex. Not many amps come with the flexibility to properly integrate a sub. Most are just two speaker out binding posts with a sub out, which is basically a full range pre out. So despite adding a sub to these pre-outs, the main speakers are still receiving a full range signal. So the bass is being provided by both the speakers and the sub. And unless point 1 and 2 above are achieved, otherwise the bass will still sound like coming from two different sources.

So ideally a amp with low pass limited is required and there are not many on the market with that facility, with the parasound halo Integrated being an exception.

A well integrated 2.1 system will anyway blow away a pure 2.0 system. But all the 3 above points have to be satisfied to get that integration. Thanks :)
 
Get a good pair of BS and get it over with. BS when placed on a sturdy stand while playing don't interfere with sofa, glass tables etc. which you may have in the living room as in a normal Indian home.
 
A well integrated 2.1 system will anyway blow away a pure 2.0 system. But all the 3 above points have to be satisfied to get that integration. Thanks :)
ive had a Dual REL strata 5 setup with Merlin BS for a long time. in the end you need to get 3 things right for audio
1. crossover needs to be exactly matched ideally acoustically where the natrual rolloff of the speaker matches the slope of the sub rise
2. the phase of both subs need to tune in to the room and the speaker
3. the loudness needs to match so its linear

It took me almost 3 months to get it all right where the subs lock in to the room and the BS and hence not just the bass but the mids also improve. but the plethora of cables made the room really messy. in the end i went for a good FS setup which to me works better for the mids and bass

but I miss the sub sub 25hz music content..and for that you need a sub or a Full range speaker which costs $$$
 
After more than three decades of audio I have learnt to not use the Sub for music. You definitely need it for the movies. How big the main speakers are, depends on the driver specs, speaker design, the room and the kind of music one listens to.
I have two 15" drivers per channel, but none of them is a sub. Even though each of the three drivers on each channel has its own dedicated amplification the woofer is still a woofer, not a sub. Just my solution, designed for my requirements and taste.

Regards,
Sharad Medhavi

How to resist this :eek:??!! ... Music 4 ever .... What is the sensitivity of your 15" DIY speakers?
 
I would definitely buy a floor stander, if I had the room for one. I love quality bass and this is a easier achieved with a large speaker driver. Design is also critical. You also have to remember that a large speaker needs space to breathe. If you do not give them that, they will fail miserably.

I have had a really good experience with stand mount speakers. My very modest PSB Image B15 is possibly the cheapest speaker from PSB and they sound so full. I did not feel the need for a sub woofer. At the other under of the spectrum was my Blumenhofer Genuin FS5. What a speaker!

A sub woofer in a stereo set up is a whole different ball game. For the amount of money you will have to put in on a sub (cause it better be a really good one. I'm talking REL, Rythmik, etc), you'd much rather steer that to the main speaker itself. It has to integrate so well that you do not even know that its there and that is no easy task. The bass should sound as if it is coming from the main speakers and not the sub woofer.

No such thing that seasoned listeners prefer floor standing speakers.
 
Thank you so much for all the wonderful inputs. Finally I'm getting a better understanding. As @Ravindra Desai pointed earlier, first a listener need to have clarity on what kind of audio he needs to listen. And then he needs to explore options that fulfill his taste.

For a person like me who do not have space, and time to build two separate setups for music and movies....... I need to find a system that's does justice to both as far as possible.

Now i understand how important it is to get the sub INTIGRATED property in the setup.
 
I have been using bookshelfs for the last few months. They are very good for the price I paid.

Purely due to practical placement issues with mounts or stands etc etc, I decided not to go for Bookshelfs anytime soon in my next upgrades.

At this stage of my journey, i came to a conclusion that towers are the ones that practically work for me.

..... Since I'm not a serious audiophile.... And I prefer powerful and punchy audio at high volume for both movies and music, I found towers gave me that kind of performance in a given budget.

My personal conviction at this stage is....
Towers fulfill up to 80% of my requirements even without a sub.
 
A beautiful, well-constructed speaker with class-leading soundstage, imaging and bass that is fast, deep, and precise.
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