Mods to my JVC micro component speakers

keith_correa

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So, ~5 years ago, my brother in law gave my father his old JVC micro-component system because my father loved to listen to FM radio in the mornings and nights [when AIR aired "English" songs which are long forgotten by most except the ancients] and this system had an FM radio. I scoffed at them [Micro components? Sheesh!!!] at first like a snob but my father loved them and they grew on me too. I realized that for their size they packed quite a punch and the sound was lush and quite decent and very listenable compared to the "modern" boom boxes or one component systems of the likes of Sony and what have you.
The amplifier went kaput a year ago and now, looking back, I realize that the amplifier was not so great - it had a "bass boost" switch which boomed up the bass [if you could call it that] tremendously and would sound very impressive to a "bass head" - we always used to listen with it "off".
The tape deck and CDP were well - a tape deck and low end CDP - no great shakes. The CDP had a 1 bit DAC which was probably considered very good at the time it was released :D

to be continued...
 
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Pics - linked from the internet.

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to be continued...
 
JVC has made micro-component and even smaller form-factor integrated CDP/receiver/amplifiers for a long time, and some of these are very well-made (much better than run-of-the-mill consumer-grade stuff). I especially like some of their wall-mount flat CDP/receiver units, which sometimes came with speakers with a 4" full-range driver with a light-weight white mylar cone.

The integrated amps tend to be chipamp based, and they can probably be replaced with a MiniRef or similar if there's sufficient space in the cabinet.
 
I had always thought that the rear speaker was a passive radiator. That plastic "thingy" over the rear driver is a sort of sound diffuser. The box has 2 ports - one each exiting from the front and back respectively. I had found that plugging the rear port by stuffing it with cloth tightened the bass considerably and since these speakers are placed with their back just 4" away from the wall, that's how they were played.

My Dad passed on early this year and the system was unused till a couple of months ago when I fired it up one day and discovered that the amp had stopped working. The CDP had given up the ghost a long time ago. I had a mini-amp [I posted about this - I think it was last year] that I had ordered from e-bay and on connecting this to the JVC speakers with my iPod line-out as source, the sound was surprisingly very good and that's how the speakers were used ever since.

Last week, on a day I did not go to office, I decided to open up the speakers to see whether the rear driver was really a passive radiator. I was curious because if it were really a passive radiator I was wondering what the ports were doing there and I also wanted to see what the insides of the speaker looked like.

So:
Rear driver:
I prised out the diffuser which was just force embedded with plastic mounts on the perimeter of the driver cutouts. It came out easily. The driver had a shiny square frame typical of Jap. drivers of that period. Removed the driver mounting screws and found that the driver would not come out despite the frames not being attached to the baffle with glue or some such. The frame just came out a couple of millimeters but something was holding it back so I rotated the driver first anticlockwise and then clockwise. I found that on rotation, it moved out from the baffle a little. I kept at it till it was out fully. The driver had a bolt which was screwed on to it's back that extended to the front of the box. It was also not a passive radiator and it had its own enclosure - basically the box was divided into 2 parts vertically. One part housed the rear driver and its port exited from the front. The walls were bare - no damping material - naked!!! The crossover was 1st order - just an inductor in series. Impedance printed on it was 6 ?.​

Front drivers:
For the mid-woofer - I prised out the circular decorative plastic frame on the perimeter of the driver cutout which was mounted on the baffle just like the rear diffuser. This driver came out easily along with the bolt mounted to its rear. So the front and rear drivers were attached together with the bolt to minimize vibration. Very impressive! This driver was identical to the driver on the rear. It was run full range and was connected in parallel to the rear driver. So, net Impedance for both drivers together = 3 ?. On the rear wall of its enclosure, just behind this driver there was just a pathetic strip of felt.

For the tweeters - After removing it, found that it was a sealed back tweeter which was crossed over 2nd order..​

Cabinet Tweaks:
Front half of the enclosure: Since I was running the speakers with the rear port [for the front half] plugged, I densely stuffed this front part with some polyester stuffing that I had left over from a previous build.​

Rear half of the enclosure: I lined the walls with convoluted foam that I had hoarded.​

Both enclosures: There were cross pollinating leaks between the 2 parts of enclosures at the areas where the ports and the wires cut through the divider wall. I plugged these with carpenters wax that I purchased at the hardware store. I also cut new gaskets for the drivers from craft foam that I had lying around from a previous build.​

I fixed the drivers back, fired the speakers up and:

The bass which was slightly flabby and which had an overhang had tightened up considerably. Sounds real good now.
The mid's which were good before now sound better. They are just "clearer".
The only bottleneck [compared to the other drivers] is the tweeter - it's an old fashioned paper cone tweeter and is not very articulate. But it's not harsh, is a bit too smooth but is something that I can live with. Not that I have a choice.​

So there you are - for not much money and just a few hours of time - I managed to make a decent sounding speaker even better.
 
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Tried something else today. Search for "modge podge driver speaker doping".

Used PVA glue [a.k.a. Fevicol in India :D] diluted with water in equal proportion to the glue. I tried this on both the mid-woofers today by coating them with a single thin coat of this solution. It dried very quickly and now the tweeter sounds well balanced with the other drivers. I think the coating has made the mid-woofers less sensitive - the result being that the tweeters now match up to them. The bass also seems to have tightened up some though this could be my imagination.

I'm very happy with the results and more so because I did not thrash the drivers with this experiment. :ohyeah:
 
Tried something else today. Search for "modge podge driver speaker doping".

Used PVA glue [a.k.a. Fevicol in India :D] diluted with water in equal proportion to the glue. I tried this on both the mid-woofers today by coating them with a single thin coat of this solution. It dried very quickly and now the tweeter sounds well balanced with the other drivers. I think the coating has made the mid-woofers less sensitive - the result being that the tweeters now match up to them. The bass also seems to have tightened up some though this could be my imagination.

PVA doping does improve the stiffness of the cone, which can help extend the upper frequency response of small woofers and mid-bass units in the range of 3" to 6" diameters. I've (over)used it indiscriminately earlier, but now I'm a bit more careful. The key thing is to apply it to the front of the cone only, and wait for the previous coat to dry before applying the next one - 2 to 3 thin coats works better than 1 thick coat.

AFAIK, PVA glue differs from fevicol - PVA tends to be a clear thick liquid (though it sometimes has a blue or yellow dye added to it) and is generally sold as a general-purpose cardboard or paper glue in stationery stores. Fevicol is generally a white thick paste and sold as a wood glue in bulk. They also dry differently and respond to water dilution differently. Fevicol also tends to peel, while PVA tends to soak a bit into paper/cardboard and resists peeling.
 
AFAIK, PVA glue differs from fevicol - PVA tends to be a clear thick liquid (though it sometimes has a blue or yellow dye added to it) and is generally sold as a general-purpose cardboard or paper glue in stationery stores. Fevicol is generally a white thick paste and sold as a wood glue in bulk. They also dry differently and respond to water dilution differently. Fevicol also tends to peel, while PVA tends to soak a bit into paper/cardboard and resists peeling.
I used the Fevicol sold in stationery stores for gluing up paper & cardboard. I think that the Fevicol used as glue for wood is different. What I used is miscible with water and the paper cone lapped it up.
 
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You think I should try another coat on the front driver - the one that is run full range? Maybe try a coat on the tweeter?

If it has uneven patterns of roughness and shine after drying, then an additional coat or two won't hurt - ideally, you want to have a uniform finish and smoothness, easily visible or by running your finger on the cone.

Coating the tweeter cone may be skipped - I've heard no real audible difference on tweeters, maybe because my hearing above 12 kHz is diminished with age.
 
If it has uneven patterns of roughness and shine after drying, then an additional coat or two won't hurt - ideally, you want to have a uniform finish and smoothness, easily visible or by running your finger on the cone.
I just shone a torch on the cone to check - yes, it has a slightly uneven finish at most places. I'll try another couple of coats over the weekend and report back. Thanks!!!
 
Early this morning I applied another coat of diluted Fevicol on the front mounted mid-bass driver. I had diluted the first coat with water in equal proportion and this had allowed it to seep through the paper a little. For the second coat, I wanted thicker, so, the mixture was maybe a 75:25 ratio of Fevicol to water. I applied this in a very thin coat and allowed it to dry completely.

Just fired them up to check and: Son of a bass!!!!!!! :D

The difference is night and day!!!! Everything just sounds so much more CLEAR. Like the clich goes - I could actually hear things that I hadn't heard before. I almost cannot believe the difference this made.

Siva, Thanks for recommending a second coat.
 
I have tried thinner, rubber based adhesive, silicone cleaning solution, varnish etc on paper cone speaker and found that speakers lose on your face harsh mid fq and becomes kind of laid back when thinner is applied.

Rubber based adhesive make cones heavy. Varnish makes speakers little stiff. Fevicol idea is tempting..will try it sometime.
 
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Time for some fancy C37 lacquer;)
I have an alternative to the lacquer. Those of a certain vintage may remember Camlin liquid glue that used to be sold in blue plastic bottles. Was brown in color like dark honey. Stinky stuff. I don't know if it is even sold anymore. If I remember correctly, it dried to a hard layer like lacquer. I thought about it AFTER I coated the cones with Fevicol.
 
I have an alternative to the lacquer. Those of a certain vintage may remember Camlin liquid glue that used to be sold in blue plastic bottles. Was brown in color like dark honey. Stinky stuff. I don't know if it is even sold anymore. If I remember correctly, it dried to a hard layer like lacquer. I thought about it AFTER I coated the cones with Fevicol.

It surely is available keith :)
Only the colour of the bottle has changed slightly and the artwork of the printed matter

camlin.jpg
 
...Those of a certain vintage may remember Camlin liquid glue that used to be sold in blue plastic bottles. Was brown in color like dark honey. Stinky stuff. I don't know if it is even sold anymore. If I remember correctly, it dried to a hard layer like lacquer...

Sheenlac should work just like the C37 lacquer on speaker cones - it's a mix of beeswax and other goo dissolved in denatured alcohol, and dies to a moderately hard and shiny surface. It also smells like varnish, wood spirits, etc., much like C37.

I've used it earlier to maintain an oxide-free sheen on aluminium surfaces also.
 
Siva sir,
What is your recommended doping for philips hi q? Also briefly explain the technique.Shall i use a paint brush?
 
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