My Velodyne EQ Max 15 is now just a 15" speaker in a box driven by the Crown XLS 2502.

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My Velodyne EQ Max 15 which I bought quite a few years back was giving a pop sound when turning on. Two days ago, it stopped working. I had two options. Give the board for repair or get a new board, both would take time and money. While I was trying to figure out what to do, (It's hard to get by without a sub for movies, after you have gotten used to it) I thought, since I had the Crown XLS 2502, why not just connect the woofer to the amp and try it out.

The amp plate has funny screws. Luckily, I had a set of screw drivers, one of which worked. Carefully unscrewed the back plate only to find an imposing looking board. I don't even know the difference between a capacitor and a resistor so you can imagine. There was a lot of padding inside the box, so gingerly put my hand into the box trying to find the wires coming out of the speakers. Was expecting cockroaches or worse to come crawling into my hand as this is a duel ported woofer with the ports under the speaker. Finally found the wires and tried to pry them loose from the board. Nope, couldn't. Took scissors to it. It was a strange looking wire. No strands. Just one piece of tough wire.

Taking the wire out of the box was a problem. Took them through the back plate leaving a gap and connected them to the crown. Played some songs. Damn, that worked !!! Was sounding ok too. Played the subwoofer frequency test sounds recently uploaded by @OM_2K19. The 20 Hz tone was making a lot of air come out of the gap between the plate and the wire and was creating vibrations and sounds too. Thought I had to live with it as I did not want to make any holes in the box and the back plate was looking too intimidating to try and get the wires out of the speaker switches.

A few hours passed, then another idea. Opened the plates, ran the wire out through one of the Ports !!! Was now able to nicely and tightly close the back plates. Tested with the 20 Hz tone again. This time, no vibrations, no unwanted noises. Maybe the Port did not like my passing a wire through it, but it did not complain at all.

The Velodyne had a 750 Watt RMS amp. I am now running it with a 440 W amp. Tried bridging but since I am not maxing out 440W, the Bridge did not make any difference. Since, I was using this amp for stereo too, I did not want to keep the bridge setting if it did not make a difference. Tried the Low pass filter at 80. This too did not make a difference as I was taking the sub out from the receiver to it was it was sending 80Hz and below only anyway to the amp.

One thing that I noticed now is that the woofer is moving quite a lot from earlier when it was running on its own amp. It goes deep enough for movies but for music, there is a new nice chest hitting punch that I did not notice earlier with it's own amp. Maybe I was not running it loud enough earlier. Maybe the original amp was doing some EQ that was making the woofer sound that way. I don't know.

Overall, am more than satisfied. I am still using the crown for stereo with the Tidal - Roon - Zen Dac - Tube pre - Crown chain as all the connectors are easy to change and it takes less than 15 seconds to do the same.
 
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Almost all consumer grade active Subwoofers overrate their power output including SVS. 440 watts are a hell lot of power and it will comfortably move the driver
 
Crowns are lot powerfull, also the chest thumping bass is due to the fact these PAs are for outdoor purpose which are included in DJ or party setups. The way these are build they give a nice chest thump.
I have seen similar setup at a friend's place, who is using PA for subwoofers, and they give a really good hit in the chest feeling.

Congratulations on this, but do keep the gains and volumes in check to avoid sub burning :p
 
but do keep the gains and volumes in check to avoid sub burning :p
Interestingly, velodyne subs are not that easy to blow up. Check out the video below where someone is trying to blow out the EQ Max 12. Mine is EQ Max 15 so it should take even more punishment. Not that I play it that loud anyway.



Another observation:

After connecting the sub to the Crown, I ran Audyssey. After it finished the process, put on some music on Tidal via Roon and set the AVR to Auro 3D. (This is a nice format for music). The music was sounding horrible !!. Extreme V curve with very harsh treble and no mid range at all. Ran Audyssey again. No luck. Turned off Audyssey. Same result. (This should have told me something, but my poor brain missed it) Tried variations of Audyssey like Flat, no LR etc, defaulted to the crossovers suggested by Audyssey but still no improvement.

It then dawned on me. I had installed an Atmos driver for windows earlier. Now I was almost sure that this was the source of the problem. Restored the default Nvidia high definition driver and sweet music was back to my living room.

So, just a word of caution to those experimenting with the Atmos driver for windows. It could mess up your sound.
 
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So, just a word of caution to those experimenting with the Atmos driver for windows. It could mess up your sound.
So what is this driver good for then ? It enables Dolby Atmos via the Netflix App on the computer.
 
My Velodyne EQ Max 15 which I bought quite a few years back was giving a pop sound when turning on. Two days ago, it stopped working. I had two options. Give the board for repair or get a new board, both would take time and money. While I was trying to figure out what to do, (It's hard to get by without a sub for movies, after you have gotten used to it) I thought, since I had the Crown XLS 2502, why not just connect the woofer to the amp and try it out.

The amp plate has funny screws. Luckily, I had a set of screw drivers, one of which worked. Carefully unscrewed the back plate only to find an imposing looking board. I don't even know the difference between a capacitor and a resistor so you can imagine. There was a lot of padding inside the box, so gingerly put my hand into the box trying to find the wires coming out of the speakers. Was expecting cockroaches or worse to come crawling into my hand as this is a duel ported woofer with the ports under the speaker. Finally found the wires and tried to pry them loose from the board. Nope, couldn't. Took scissors to it. It was a strange looking wire. No strands. Just one piece of tough wire.

Taking the wire out of the box was a problem. Took them through the back plate leaving a gap and connected them to the crown. Played some songs. Damn, that worked !!! Was sounding ok too. Played the subwoofer frequency test sounds recently uploaded by @OM_2K19. The 20 Hz tone was making a lot of air come out of the gap between the plate and the wire and was creating vibrations and sounds too. Thought I had to live with it as I did not want to make any holes in the box and the back plate was looking too intimidating to try and get the wires out of the speaker switches.

A few hours passed, then another idea. Opened the plates, ran the wire out through one of the Ports !!! Was now able to nicely and tightly close the back plates. Tested with the 20 Hz tone again. This time, no vibrations, no unwanted noises. Maybe the Port did not like my passing a wire through it, but it did not complain at all.

The Velodyne had a 750 Watt RMS amp. I am now running it with a 440 W amp. Tried bridging but since I am not maxing out 440W, the Bridge did not make any difference. Since, I was using this amp for stereo too, I did not want to keep the bridge setting if it did not make a difference. Tried the Low pass filter at 80. This too did not make a difference as I was taking the sub out from the receiver to it was it was sending 80Hz and below only anyway to the amp.

One thing that I noticed now is that the woofer is moving quite a lot from earlier when it was running on its own amp. It goes deep enough for movies but for music, there is a new nice chest hitting punch that I did not notice earlier with it's own amp. Maybe I was not running it loud enough earlier. Maybe the original amp was doing some EQ that was making the woofer sound that way. I don't know.

Overall, am more than satisfied. I am still using the crown for stereo with the Tidal - Roon - Zen Dac - Tube pre - Crown chain as all the connectors are easy to change and it takes less than 15 seconds to do the same.

it would be nice if you can post pics if possible.
 
It seems Crown is trying to attract customers from home audio segment by providing selectable input sensitivity in some of it's Power Amps.

Has anyone compared the performance of XLi and XLS series for driving Subwoofer?
 
I have not compared the two but both of them have user selectable input sensitivity of 0.755V or 1.4V. I am using 0.755v.
 
velodyne subs are not that easy to blow up.
Recently my Polk SW would just simply turned off once powered up. So l opened its plate and found one chip(audio processor) has bad corrosions. It may be causing shortening of chip leads and sw to shutdown. Rest of PCB is shining and no sign of anything burnt. I have tried reflowing it and yet to test it. Else l need to go to mobile repair shop and reinstall chip.IMG-20210812-WA0009.jpg
 
My !!! That looks bad. Wonder how it got corroded. Mumbai humidity ? Did not know that mobile shops could reinstall chips. The velodyne has all its boards placed vertically so very difficult to see. Not that I would know what to do as I have no experience with boards and chips.
 
My !!! That looks bad. Wonder how it got corroded. Mumbai humidity ? Did not know that mobile shops could reinstall chips. The velodyne has all its boards placed vertically so very difficult to see. Not that I would know what to do as I have no experience with boards and chips.
Mostly due to humidity. Polk has processing board vertical and l had to remove heatsink screw to check it. Earlier l did suspect amps,but its all voltage readings were correct.Mostly due to chip its shutting down power supply.
 
Recently my Polk SW would just simply turned off once powered up. So l opened its plate and found one chip(audio processor) has bad corrosions. It may be causing shortening of chip leads and sw to shutdown. Rest of PCB is shining and no sign of anything burnt. I have tried reflowing it and yet to test it. Else l need to go to mobile repair shop and reinstall chip.View attachment 61240
IMO desktop or laptop repairers can reflow this chip easily as they are pretty much familiar in such kind of job.
 
Some more observations in case someone else is going this route.

The punchy bass was getting tiring after a while. It is great for parties and to impress non audiophile friends but it was not working out for the music that I listen to. In one of the acoustic tracks, I could hear sounds from the sub when I placed my ear to it. This should not have happened as that song did not have any frequency below 80 Hz. I think the upper bass frequencies were being duplicated by the sub and the mains. So, I decided to apply the low pass filter and set it to 80 Hz. Dead silent now. The bass is also just right. Played Sade and the bass was just right making the music quite lively and foot tapping.

One more setting to change when I listen to stereo though. This morning I put on some vocals on Tidal - Zen Dac chain and no sound was coming from the speakers. The 80Hz low pass filter was active on the amp !!!
 
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