Pass F5 Turbo V2; one more build.

missing the front and the back. rest in place.
the diodes on the amp board look fugly....but that's my own mistake.

havent biased yet.....switched it and it passed the bulb test.







Comments and feedback welcome.
 
Good going. Looking nice. Please keep patience while biasing one channel at a time. Before that just make visual inspection of solder joints and PS contacts on Amp boards.

BTW, what is rating of your transformer? If it is more that 500VA then please use proper soft start circuit in place of NTC in path of primary. Also please use mono speaker protection per channel if space permits. This is recommended.
 
Impressive Work done.. Very neat and proper arrangement... BTW whats the height of Heat sink?

Regards,
Sadik
 
Would like some help:
I followed the instructions by Omishra in http://www.hifivision.com/diy/28245-diy-pass-f5-turbo-v2-initiated-73.html#post476504

The drop across the N-channel and P-channel resistors (i.e. the readings of the 2 DMMs across the source resistors) is very different from each other. One was reading 180mV while the other was at 100mV. So which one should I go by to determine my bias voltage? Or does this indicate something wrong with my board?
It passed the bulb test etc. and there are no shorts.

Ok, looking at the circuit I don't see how they can be different. Troubleshooting time then, I guess.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Try to change DMM wires on adjacent or neighboring device. Resistance tolerance has effect on reading. Output devices are tightly matched and hope you used correctly from bags.
 
Last edited:
Been trying to bias the amp. Setup DMM connections and now both source resistor drop voltages are about the same - which is good.
I biased it to 100mV as advised. As expected, one pot increases bias voltage, while the other zeroes the output DC.
However problem: on one channel I am running out of pot turns and am unable to zero the output DC bias even at just under 100mV.
Any ideas? Have rechecked everything!!

Should I increase R5/R6 to 2.2K or so?

thanks
 
Last edited:
increased R5/R6 to 2.7K on both channels and things seem to be progressing fine. fingers crossed.
 
I have a problem and would like some help.

Wiring is as shown:


The 0/24V secondaries go to both rectifier boards. Rectified outs go to filter board. At this point we have 2 sets of V+/0/V-, which each go to the amp boards.
The 0 from each filter board also each go to ONE ground isolator bridge, and from there to chassis ground. Therefore the 0 from the two power supply outs are shorted at the ground isolator, forming the common virtual ground for the 2 channels.
The two 0s do not short anywhere else (speaker outs grounds are not shorted, nor are the RCA Ins).

The issue is when i connect a stereo input with a common ground (like from a headphone out) to BOTH RCAs. There is a terrible ground burring noise. It is absolutely silent when only one channel IN is connected - music sounds great.

WHat's wrong? I think it is a ground issue, but dont know what.
 
after lot of hard work, finally managed to let out the magic smoke in one channel.....
would anyone have a set of matched P-channel and N-channel MOSFETs spare - happy to pay?
1. FQA12P20 x 2 (matched pair)
2. FQA16N25C x 2 (matched pair)
Other channel ok. Am also posting in Wanted forum

If you know where I can get one, please do help.

thanks
 
I have a problem and would like some help.

Wiring is as shown:


The 0 from each filter board also each go to ONE ground isolator bridge, and from there to chassis ground. Therefore the 0 from the two power supply outs are shorted at the ground isolator, forming the common virtual ground for the 2 channels.
WHat's wrong? I think it is a ground issue, but dont know what.

That is your problem - Single ground isolator. Use two of them, each one from 0 of filter board to isolate chassis ground. Now you have shorted two grounds at isolator pin. Though transformer is common, both 0 are at different level by few milli volts due to different Vf of diode tolerances.
Still you face the problem then you may need to swap secondary wire pairs of any one channel PS.
 
after lot of hard work, finally managed to let out the magic smoke in one channel.....
would anyone have a set of matched P-channel and N-channel MOSFETs spare - happy to pay?
1. FQA12P20 x 2 (matched pair)
2. FQA16N25C x 2 (matched pair)
Other channel ok. Am also posting in Wanted forum

If you know where I can get one, please do help.

thanks

Sad, I had few but lost 4 pairs one FMs F5t.
 
Hello Mishraji,
Can you please explain in detail your above line with some sketch.

Sadik

I can't draw sketch now. But let me explain what and why I mentioned that.
Take any rectifier board above:
- It has 2 bridge blocks made from 4 dual diodes each (total 8).
- There are (from top-bottom) 4 wires from 2 secondaries of same transformer, we name 4 wires as (S1a, S1b) and (S2a, S2b)

--S1a--

--S1b--

and

--S2a--

--S2b--

What I meant was take any one rectifier board,
1. Try to exchange wires positions S1a<->S1b and/or S2a<->S2b
2. If 1 does not solve your problems then exchange Wires of S1*<->S2*

Why - because there is only one transformer not two. So When +/- are derived from bridges they come from same source but different diodes. Hence getting '0' by connecting one bridge '+' and another bridge '-' makes ground with common noise. It may peak or cancel itself depending upon phase of noise. With reference to another board's 0, this 0 might be at slightly different level. Somehow by trial and error method of wire connections, we can try to make the difference minimum.

But here single ground isolator (rather connecting both '0' at ground isolator with long wires) is introducing big ground loop -
from one PS '0' -> amp board -> input RCA -> Source-> Another input RCA->Another amp board -> another PS '0'-> ground isolator -> first '0'. Disconnecting this loop at input RCA stops noise which is amplified from input ground current of loop.
Rather he could have removed one '0'-> Ground isolator wire.
But somehow he fiddled with running amplifier to enter into repair mode which is more challenging because I afraid he may need those difficult to get Toshiba input JFETs too. :(
 
thanks for the detailed explanation Om.

But somehow he fiddled with running amplifier to enter into repair mode :(


I had traced the ground loop issue before the transistors blew. One of the leads from the transformer to the rectifier board hadn't seated properly. Seating it right solved the issue I posted about.
By the way, I did have 2 ground isolator bridges always wired up - they can be seen in the photo I had posted earlier. At some point before posting about my issue, I managed to convince myself that that wiring was incorrect, and ended up drawing an incorrect wiring diagram which I posted. SO the actual wiring I had done did have 2 bridges. Just my wiring diagram didnt. I know....:rolleyes:

The transistors blew because of something quite else. I was just running it after biasing, and moved a wire, when my hand knocked something else (yes, sheer carelessness) and caused it to brush against something it shouldnt have. ka-boom. :sad:
will check the JFETs
 
JFETs seem OK.

thought I'd finish the cabinet while waiting for the replacement MOSFets. Not happy though. There are zero metal workshops here, so everything was hand cut/filed/drilled etc. Huge gaps in fit and finish. anyway, it encloses the amp and is functional.
will powder coat when the other channel is done.





there's a bit of transformer hum - very low - audible only if you place your ear on the amp. Not through the speakers. from the amp itself. i have tried changing the powerpoint, and also tried using a stabilizer. little bit of difference.
now need to try mounting the transformer tighter, rotating it, and/or perhaps adding two caps back to back in the AC in.

Any other suggestions?
 
Last edited:
Wharfedale Linton Heritage Speakers in Red Mahogany finish at a Special Offer Price. BUY now before the price increase.
Back
Top