Plinth modications- Micro Seikie

[kuruvilajacob]

Jacob, For the 12" arm, I need around 319mm between pivot and spindle. So I calculated I would need 24x19 inches ply, and six such pieces (Art Dudley used 8 pieces). Des that sound right?

My 12" arm dimensions are 22 X 16 inch . I decided to have only 36 mm (two 18 mm ply) plinth suspended on squash balls on 4 corners like the Loricraft method because I thought using 4 or 5 nos 18 mm ply would make the player too heavy to manage. But if you can make it like that, I am sure it will absorb more vibrations and should sound good.But it will be like carting a Yamaha Piano if you have to move it around. Seriously, I am also thinking of modifying using 5 0r 6 ply pieces soon as I am not too happy with my present Loricraft model plinth.; My Garrard 301 fully plinthed sound much better. I hope I have been able to answer your doubt

 

[Gerry_the_Merry]

Jacob, sure you have. I have had a rethink. I am going to re wire my SME 3009 -II non improved (it lacks earthing wire but is otherwise in superb condition), instead of making another plinth. If that sound does not approach my digital set up, which is currently my benchmark, I will go for a full plinth rebuild for the 12 incher. Thanks

 

[kuruvilajacob]

Gerry, I think that's a very wise move. My SME 3009 has a fixed headshell but I don't know if it is the same model you have. Mine has a earth wire

 

[jls001]

Jacob, For the 12" arm, I need around 319mm between pivot and spindle. So I calculated I would need 24x19 inches ply, and six such pieces (Art Dudley used 8 pieces). Des that sound right?

Best template for 301 is here. The cutouts in this design carves away only the parts that absolutely must go, and so mass maximisation is its main goal. The stock design has an overall thickness of 100 mm (almost 4 inches). The lowest layer can be repeated thrice - as is, without any mods, or by drilling a one inch hole in place of the cutout for ventilation - to increase the mass, and make it nearly 6 inches thick.

Your 301 is already dead quiet and loading with substantial mass will take away whatever rumble the motor might have.

IMHO, your new Ortofon arm deserves to be partnered with your 301. And they deserve a fine cart like an SPU. Or at least a D-103.

 

[Gerry_the_Merry]

JLS, this is for 25mm thickness layers. For 18mm, it may be slightly different, and may be needed to be done visually by my carpenter. Will take the 9" route for now, and think of the 12" at a later time.

 

[jls001]

JLS, this is for 25mm thickness layers. For 18mm, it may be slightly different, and may be needed to be done visually by my carpenter. Will take the 9" route for now, and think of the 12" at a later time.

18mm is 3/4 inch. 25 mm is 1 inch. 1 inch marine grade ply should be available. Since you have a 12 incher, why not plan that as primary arm, and leave space for a 9 incher?

 

[Gerry_the_Merry]

JLS, because I can attach the 9" arm in the existing plinth so much quicker. If I embark on a CLD stack for a 12" arm it will take time. I can do that in parallel over a period of time. Will try for 1" layers.

 

[kuruvilajacob]

JLS, because I can attach the 9" arm in the existing plinth so much quicker. If I embark on a CLD stack for a 12" arm it will take time. I can do that in parallel over a period of time. Will try for 1" layers.

I have successfully built a separate Arm Pod and overcome most of the initial resonance problems . I will be posting the final report in a couple of days time. You could try a similar extra pod for the 12" arm without going for CLD stack. Just my suggestion