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quality of power and quality of sound

Project Turntables

Hari Iyer

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I was analyzing my Marantz service manual and it's smpss power supply. There is an input choke filter immediately after the AC input. There are two small ferrite beads on the PCB layout. Also the output of the SMPS which goes to the main board has a ferrite beads clamped on the DC power cable. But the audio power cable does not have the ferrite beads clamped. There should be some wisdom in this implementation. As Prem says, probably the ferrite robs the juice out of music. Now don't tell me this is for cost cutting às they cost hardly 50/- bucks.
 
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prem

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Hari, as I said on the dc side things like ferrite beads might work with minimal side effects
 

arj

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My understanding was that ferrite beads worked as inductors and hence increased the inductance of a cable, so unless the cable was designed with it, better not to be used. It does make sense to use on the DC signal and on data cables like USB data though for the same reason.
 

haisaikat

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Presently my CDP (220v AC) and Allo digione player (5v 3a DC with a 220V AC adapter) are source using CDP as DAC. From the discussion above it seems that the digital sources like the above two need to be fed from a isolation transformer and other A/V components specifically the PC should not be connected to that same transformer, albeit no other devices. Is this the right direction? What about using better power cables like the ones commercially sold for audio devices as "better" Power cables and more popular power conditioners? are these not required if i use isolation transformer to feed the digital sources and DACs?

Linear Power supply / hifi power supply not in budget. So step-by-step experiments had lead me till here.

a) for DAC which needs 12 volts
I had bought a router ups, which has a battery. its main purpose is for powering a router uninterrupted, but i used it for my DAC.

b) transport (spdif purifier ifi)
currently attached a normal power bank which is used to charge mobiles. It was borrowed from my friend and he took away. So i am now using USB out of mobile for 5v.
My understanding was that DC battery does not provide a steady voltage and also has its ups and downs and as the charge decays so does the voltage gradually so i try to stay away from it
 

amit11

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Presently my CDP (220v AC) and Allo digione player (5v 3a DC with a 220V AC adapter) are source using CDP as DAC. From the discussion above it seems that the digital sources like the above two need to be fed from a isolation transformer and other A/V components specifically the PC should not be connected to that same transformer, albeit no other devices. Is this the right direction? What about using better power cables like the ones commercially sold for audio devices as "better" Power cables and more popular power conditioners? are these not required if i use isolation transformer to feed the digital sources and DACs?



My understanding was that DC battery does not provide a steady voltage and also has its ups and downs and as the charge decays so does the voltage gradually so i try to stay away from it
Yes quite possible. My point was for someone like me who cannot make the leap from smps to LPS due to budget, a battery pack for 5v and a router ups for 12v is the intermediate solution to experience what a cleaner power can do to a cleaner sound.
 

sound_cycle

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jls001

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If you're using USB connection from computer to DAC, cutting off the Vcc+ (5V DC power from computer to DAC, pin 1 of USB) will give you a major clean up in sound. Not easy if you use moulded USB connectors but if you make your own USB cable quite easy to implement.
 

insane79

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just curious, you guys got your Hifi/AV setup on 10 or 15 amps wall sockets?
 

raghupb

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My Cambridge audio 840w power amp has a max consumption of 2400 watts
Whoa!!
I have 2 monoblocs that are rated 600W each (max power consumption)
They are connected to 5 amp socket. I think the MCB for lighting circuits at home are 10A
Cheers,
Raghu
 

haisaikat

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Whoa!!
I have 2 monoblocs that are rated 600W each (max power consumption)
They are connected to 5 amp socket. I think the MCB for lighting circuits at home are 10A
Cheers,
Raghu
My mains line is 3 Phase which is distributed in all rooms, I have used Master MCB 40A in each single phase distribution box under which several 16A and 10A MCBs are there depending on connection line. For AC/Microwaves/Gizzer, 16A lines are mostly used, Rest 10A ones. The phase of HT does not have any AC and is Run using 16A MCBs. Then again I suppose I am not using the power amp at full power for normal listening. This arrangement is working well for last 8 years. OF course the power amp is just 5 months old.

You can connect a max load of 1250 watts in a 5 A socket in a 15 A socket you can go till 3500 watts max.
Indeed I did similar math Current x Voltage ~ Power

Recently my electrician told that normal MCB that I have used and I think many use cut off at 1000 degrees C and there are newer more expensive types that cut off at lower sub 200 degrees which results in faster cut off and less risk for devices. Backed off after hearing the prices
 

raghupb

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At home listening levels the equipment would probably be at max 100W at speaker stage (per channel).
The above number arrived at using a 10V signal (after power amp stage) to speaker presenting an impedance of 4 ohms.
Add losses and other stuff, I don't see total usage crossing 500W even in a true high powered system.
So it is OK to plug into 5A sockets (10A circuits), is my guess.
Of course, having 15A sockets (16/20A circuits) is beneficial, if it is provisioned for in proximity of listening area.
Cheers,
Raghu
 

arj

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My Cambridge audio 840w power amp has a max consumption of 2400 watts
2400 for 200W amp does not seem right unless it was running pure class A for the entire output. in that case it would be as big as a small sofa . are you sure about that ?
depending on your speaker sensitivity the actual amp power drawn , i believe would be much lesser.
 

haisaikat

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2400 for 200W amp does not seem right unless it was running pure class A for the entire output. in that case it would be as big as a small sofa . are you sure about that ?
depending on your speaker sensitivity the actual amp power drawn , i believe would be much lesser.
User manual says that, it gets damn hot

34004
 

arj

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Your speaker is 88 dB and says power is 15-150W. Your amp consumes 180W in Class A..and pur class As these days have an efficiency of around 20% ( used to be 10)

If your Amp is getting hot it may primarily be because the unused power from Class A is being dissipated as Heat ( which is how Pure class A works)..hence in most probability the average consumption by your speaker is much less than 36W ( assuming 20% efficiency) although it may have a higher instantaneous pull.

Hence consumption would be around 180W..
 
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