Some "electrical" tips if interested...

Saikat, please go by what ARJ and HiFI. The method I mentioned is all right in most cases and will work if there is cable shorting. But if there is a spike or excess voltage, it is better to have the fuse on the 'Live' cable.

I am also assuming that you are connecting the player through a power conditioner that gives primary protection against spikes and excess voltage.

Cheers
 
Thanks guys.... This is what I did last night...

The original plug was not 'fitting' into the MX spike guard I have, due to the odd size of one side of the plug. So I bought a MX adapter, which the plug fit into snugly, which in turn fit in to the spike guard. The player turned on fine and i even watched a couple of episodes of Discovery 'Planet Earth'. :)

Ashok... the plug does not have 'L' & 'N' marked on it. I'll check again though. From what i've read on the internet, US sites say the narrow plug is to be connected to the 'Hot' side... whatever that means. I'm guessing Hot translates to Live.

arj...... you've lost me there....where is the fuse?... as far as i can see the player plug does not have a fuse.
 
Ashok... the plug does not have 'L' & 'N' marked on it. I'll check again though. From what i've read on the internet, US sites say the narrow plug is to be connected to the 'Hot' side... whatever that means. I'm guessing Hot translates to Live.

You are right. The US Type A plugs are polarised with the narrower blade (plug) carrying the power (being live, or hot) while the wider blade is neutral.

arj...... you've lost me there....where is the fuse?... as far as i can see the player plug does not have a fuse.

Most good products have a fuse before the 110/220 volts in sent to the transformer inside. The transformer is part of power management unit that converts the 110/220 volts to various DC currents needed by various parts of the unit such the PCB, lasers, small motors, etc.

Many products have the fuse on the cabinet and you can see that as a small circular screwable cap with the label 'fuse'. Many products (most modern ones) have the fuse inside the cabinet and you wont see the fuse unless you open the cabinet.

Cheers
 
...........Many products have the fuse on the cabinet and you can see that as a small circular screwable cap with the label 'fuse'. Many products (most modern ones) have the fuse inside the cabinet and you wont see the fuse unless you open the cabinet.

Cheers

And many products have fuse embedded into the IEC socket block (always located at the back of the unit) where one inserts the detachable power cord, you need a screw driver to flip open the small fuse compartment lid to access the fuse. And further some well made IEC socket blocks have provision to accomodate a spare fuse too!
 
Thanks Suhas. I was wondering when you are going to chip in with this 'electrical' thread.

Cheers
 
translates to Live.

arj...... you've lost me there....where is the fuse?... as far as i can see the player plug does not have a fuse.

As mentioned by Suhas, the fuse is inside the component, usually just before the transfomer in thge PSU.

BTW in UK plugs we have a fuse in the plug itself..
 
Well i bought some wattgate from london (IEC and UK flat 3 pin tops) and hence assumed.
Yes i 'loop' the wire from socket to socket when making a power strip.
Yes Murli all is clear!!!!!!!!!

Yes myriad u can make good power cords with finolex cables too. Just use decent connectors or the purpose is defeated. Have made some using finolex 4sq.mm three core cable and supra connectors and my friends seem to love them.


hi sir
i tried lots of power cord from different companies but was not satisfied i want to make my own power cord now i need 15 amps ice socket so where can i get that in bangalore(if u have any idea where i can buy them ) i know that our electric cables works well on speakers also but there is lots of resistance on them so it don't work out over there but trying to get good power cord did not work for me brought cheap and expensive cables. i am feuds now i want to design my own power cord so tough to txt u to get some idea
thank you in advance
speakers paradigm prestige 95F FLOOR STANDING SPEAKERS ,55C CENTER CHANNEL , PARADIGM MONTIOR SURROUND 3, PARADIGM PERSTIGE 1000 SW 2NO, KIMBER 8 TC FRO FRONT AND CENTER, KIMBER KWICK 16 FOR SURROUND AND SONY UBP X 800 ULTRA BLURAY PLAYER AND SONY VPL-VW 520 ES
 
These are some tips from the power/electricity viewpoint based on several years of research and trials in building a decent music system (minimum: a source, typically CD player, amplifier, integrated or pre/power, speakers, may be subwoofers):
*Though stock power cord vs expensive power cord is still a subject of several debates, my personal experience is that there is substantial benefit from well made power cords compared to stock cords supplied with equipment. I find shielded power cords the best for digital equipment like CD players and non-shielded for amplifiers. There are excellent power cords built at reasonable prices by Chris ven Haus (vhaudio), Tel wire power cords etc.
*Equally important as power cords are the connectors used, including IEC and power plugs and wall sockets. An excellent connector from companies like Furutech, Oyaide etc makes a huge improvement in performance.
*Before attempting a review and plan for power cords and connectors, it is always best to understand certain basics. The NEMA type plugs and sockets used in USA are the most common but I tend to keep away from them as they are basically designed for 120 volt power and not 230 volt we have in India. Wattgate, Hubbell etc make excellent connectors but unfortunately not to 230 volt application.
*So it is better to standardise all your wall sockets and plugs to 230 volt application, the most common being European Schuko and UK types to ensure maximum safety. I use exclusively European Schuko connectors (wall sockets, IEC and male plugs).
*Even if you have a power conditioner, don't plug in your high current equipment like amplifiers into them, whatever the manufacturer says.
*I do not believe in using a voltage stabiliser in a hifi system as it restricts power.
*I have made a multiple wall socket box star-wired inside to plug in my amplifiers and preamplifier. A Richard Gray conditioner is plugged in parallel and digital equipment like CD and DVD players, surround processor etc are plugged into the conditioner.
*A polarity check helps a lot, ie. ensure hot and neutral are connected correctly. A cheap van den Hul polarity checker is useful for this or the local electrician can check this.
*A summary of my power cords: VH Audio Flavor-4 with Furutech plugs in pre and power amplifiers, Tel Wire power cord with Oyaide beryllium plugs in CD player, XLO Reference 2 Type 10 power cord in DVD player, van den Hul Mainstream power cords in subwoofers.
Believe me, these small things make a big difference in performance of whatever system you have.

Hi Murali, am looking to upgrade the power plugs and connectors to my system. Any suggestions where one can get your list of materials?

Mike Williams
 
Purchase the Audiolab 6000A Integrated Amplifier at a special offer price.
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