Subwoofer pair under 5L

[raghavtib]

Hi everyone,
I’ve been a lurker on the forum for quite a few months now and I’ve learned much from all of you. It’s really great to be a part of the community!

I’m running a stereo system with the following setup -
Streamer + PreAmp - NAD M66
Power Amplifier - NAD M23
Speakers - B&W PM1s

I want to buy a pair of subwoofers which I plan to integrate using DLBC. I’ve currently shortlisted the REL T9x, the KEF KC92 and perhaps the REL S510 (if I can get 2).

I primarily use the system to listen to music. I do use it to watch TV but it’s not often. My room is about 20 feet x 15 feet x 12 feet (ceiling), and it’s a bedroom with all the typical furnishings - bed, cupboards, desk and side tables.

I’ve tried using a PSB sub before, but I had to return it because of the terrible rattling in my room’s false ceiling. I’m going to try and reduce it with foam tape on the ceiling light fixtures and with the SVS sound path isolation system.

I must add that I used a B&W ASW10CM subwoofer for many years without the rattling being particularly bad (it was low enough to be ignored). It used to sit under my TV cabinet on a wooden floor.

But when I got the PSB and moved it to the side of the cabinet (on marble flooring), the rattling was so bad that I returned the sub. Now, one year later, I’ve got the itch again and I wanted to ask if anyone here’s found a solution.

Have any of you tried these subwoofers? Have you faced similar problems with your false ceilings? What would you do?

 

[ajuvignesh]

The REL s510 option seem to be nice.Also look at JL audio.

 

[chander]

Subs are tricky. You can live without them, but that life is boring.

If we only consider your shortlist - so keep things simple and not confusing. I would go with the RELs.

Also I would suggest you must get only One Sub to begin with. Dual subs create their own unique challenges - though they sound better than one when integrated well.

Thanks!

 

[rwnano]

I'd suggest the SVS subs ..they usually get the highest recommendations

 

[raghavtib]

Subs are tricky. You can live without them, but that life is boring.

If we only consider your shortlist - so keep things simple and not confusing. I would go with the RELs.

Also I would suggest you must get only One Sub to begin with. Dual subs create their own unique challenges - though they sound better than one when integrated well.

Thanks!

I plan to use Dirac Live Bass Control on the M66 to integrate the subs, which is why I'm excited to try a pair of subwoofers. I used to have one B&W ASW10CM subwoofer connected to this system (with a Marantz AVR), and the bass was enough but sort of uneven (high on the bed in front of the tv/sub, low on either side where my desk and yoga mats are).

 

[hifimaddy]

I’m in a similar situation and didn’t want to start a separate thread. I’m currently planning to integrate a subwoofer into my stereo setup—likely starting with one unit and potentially adding a second later for a dual-sub configuration.

So far, I’ve shortlisted the REL T9x, SVS 3000 Micro, and the REL S510 (though the S510 stretches my budget a bit). I haven’t had the chance to audition them yet. The SVS 3000 Micro appeals to me because of its compact form factor and app-based control, which seems very convenient for fine-tuning. That said, I find myself gravitating more toward the REL T9x, especially given REL’s reputation in musical, two-channel systems.

My main speakers extend down to around 40–50 Hz, so I’m primarily looking for a subwoofer that can seamlessly take over from there and deliver clean, controlled bass down to at least 25 Hz—ideally closer to 20 Hz.

On paper, REL’s specs don’t seem to dig as deep as SVS, which makes me curious about real-world performance. For those who are using REL subs in a stereo setup:

• How well do they integrate musically?
• Do they deliver convincing low-end extension for instruments like drums or tabla?
• Does the perceived bass depth go beyond what the specs suggest?

I’d really appreciate any feedback, especially from users who have experience with these models in a music-focused setup.

 

[DB1989]

Hi everyone,
I’ve been a lurker on the forum for quite a few months now and I’ve learned much from all of you. It’s really great to be a part of the community!

I’m running a stereo system with the following setup -
Streamer + PreAmp - NAD M66
Power Amplifier - NAD M23
Speakers - B&W PM1s

I want to buy a pair of subwoofers which I plan to integrate using DLBC. I’ve currently shortlisted the REL T9x, the KEF KC92 and perhaps the REL S510 (if I can get 2).

I primarily use the system to listen to music. I do use it to watch TV but it’s not often. My room is about 20 feet x 15 feet x 12 feet (ceiling), and it’s a bedroom with all the typical furnishings - bed, cupboards, desk and side tables.

I’ve tried using a PSB sub before, but I had to return it because of the terrible rattling in my room’s false ceiling. I’m going to try and reduce it with foam tape on the ceiling light fixtures and with the SVS sound path isolation system.

I must add that I used a B&W ASW10CM subwoofer for many years without the rattling being particularly bad (it was low enough to be ignored). It used to sit under my TV cabinet on a wooden floor.

But when I got the PSB and moved it to the side of the cabinet (on marble flooring), the rattling was so bad that I returned the sub. Now, one year later, I’ve got the itch again and I wanted to ask if anyone here’s found a solution.

Have any of you tried these subwoofers? Have you faced similar problems with your false ceilings? What would you do?

I would advise you to go with the single best sub you can buy.

dual subs, when integrated well, are good for even bass dispersion across the room but hardly matter except for loudness when you're primarily seated at one MLP.

I run dual REL T9i's and while they sound spectacular, a single Rythmik E15HP2 at the same price is the way to go. the speed and timbre is almost as good as the RELs we're talking minute differences, but the bass extension it simply epic! it reaches down to 8hz with authority and even at low volumes, you will appreciate the presence of those sub frequencies. It adds a whole new dimension to the sound over and above the RELs, both for music and movies.

That said, you can't go wrong with a REL and i'd recommend the S/850 or the SX212 or its successor.

 

[AP@1992]

I use M66 as my control hub.

When Omega's were my mainstay, I had paired two PSB Alpha 250 with M66 via its dedicated sub out and tuned through DLBC

The setup was brezze and the results were great. Integration was amazing and my single driver speakers sounded considerably deeper and louder.

Two subs did better than one, specially in small, uneven rooms.

I had tried one REL T7x too with M66, I would choose PSB.

If PSB has not worked for you. Consider REL. Both sound fast, tight and blends well. Kef have their own DSP inside KC series, so dont know how they will interact with M66.

DLBC works only when the subs is connected to M66 via the dedicated sub out. So, REL's prefered mode of connection, high level, is not engaged. One must keep that in mind.

 

[raghavtib]

I use M66 as my control hub.

When Omega's were my mainstay, I had paired two PSB Alpha 250 with M66 via its dedicated sub out and tuned through DLBC

The setup was brezze and the results were great. Integration was amazing and my single driver speakers sounded considerably deeper and louder.

Two subs did better than one, specially in small, uneven rooms.

I had tried one REL T7x too with M66, I would choose PSB.

If PSB has not worked for you. Consider REL. Both sound fast, tight and blends well. Kef have their own DSP inside KC series, so dont know how they will interact with M66.

DLBC works only when the subs is connected to M66 via the dedicated sub out. So, REL's prefered mode of connection, high level, is not engaged. One must keep that in mind.

I think a large part of the rattling were the ceiling lights fixed to the gypsum board. I've devised a fix for these by buying new ones and adding foam tape between them and the board. I'm hoping that the resonance of the board itself will be low enough to ignore.

Claude and I scanned the internet last night and I learned that long marble flooring tiles, because of their thinness, absorb and transmit a wide range of bass frequencies to the walls and ceiling. So I'm certainly going to need to isolate the subwoofers from the ground.

I've got two sets of SVS soundpath isolation feet lying around from my previous attempt at adding subwoofers, and I'm hoping to use them. Any idea if they'll work on the RELs? Will the threading/screws match?

REL seems to suggest that their subwoofers should be coupled to the floor to get deep bass but that's not an option because I don't want the whole apartment to shake with every beat. The SVS feet did not fit on the PSB sub either, even though they're clearly advertised as compatible with all brands of subwoofers. But even if they don't fit, I'll need other isolation feet that do fit.

 

[AP@1992]

I think a large part of the rattling were the ceiling lights fixed to the gypsum board. I've devised a fix for these by buying new ones and adding foam tape between them and the board. I'm hoping that the resonance of the board itself will be low enough to ignore.

Claude and I scanned the internet last night and I learned that long marble flooring tiles, because of their thinness, absorb and transmit a wide range of bass frequencies to the walls and ceiling. So I'm certainly going to need to isolate the subwoofers from the ground.

I've got two sets of SVS soundpath isolation feet lying around from my previous attempt at adding subwoofers, and I'm hoping to use them. Any idea if they'll work on the RELs? Will the threading/screws match?

REL seems to suggest that their subwoofers should be coupled to the floor to get deep bass but that's not an option because I don't want the whole apartment to shake with every beat. The SVS feet did not fit on the PSB sub either, even though they're clearly advertised as compatible with all brands of subwoofers. But even if they don't fit, I'll need other isolation feet that do fit.

Have you considered Iso accoustics aperta.

I found them very good and they my PSB were placed on them. Its cheap and effective.

But these may or may wont fix the rattling issues


Once you employ DLBC, it will reduce the bass impact. That may solve some of your problem.

 

[hifimaddy]

I think a large part of the rattling were the ceiling lights fixed to the gypsum board. I've devised a fix for these by buying new ones and adding foam tape between them and the board. I'm hoping that the resonance of the board itself will be low enough to ignore.

Before purchasing new ones, I recommend placing "neoprene tape" between the lights and the ceilings. You can easily do this yourself. I will include the Amazon link here. neoprene tape This is very helpful in various applications.