TD 124 Wakes Up

Beautiful set-up, does justice to this magnificent table.

But, are my eyes fooling me about the anti-skate thread. It appears to be attached to the wayrod of the side weight. If so, then you need to fix it over its own separate rod on the top of the arm. Maybe I'm not seeing the picture right...

In addition to overhang, you might need to zero in on the tracking angle. There are protractors that you could download from Vinylengine.com

Btw, how much did you get those Cereballs for?

Hi Eddie,
That's just the nylon thread "overhanging". It's not tied to the way rod.

Tracking angle is something I am still struggling to understand better. I downloaded and printed (to scale) the Baerwald-Lofgren protractors, but I am struggling on how to use it correctly. Any online resource on how to use it correctly?

The Cereballs are not yet paid for but they are definitely keepers for me. I will ask magma the price. He has also kindly gifted me a set of 3 brass conical footers. Will try them out as well to see if they change the sound signature.
Joshua
 
Tracking angle is something I am still struggling to understand better. I downloaded and printed (to scale) the Baerwald-Lofgren protractors, but I am struggling on how to use it correctly. Any online resource on how to use it correctly?

The online protractor should have a small circle on one side that you need to punch through so that it sits on the centre spindle. (It helps to keep an LP on the TT while you're at it). Most have two null points, one each for the outermost and innermost grooves. You drop the stylus on to the null point, and the sides of your cartridge, or even the sides of the headshell, should be perfectly parallel to the lines on the protractor. In case they're not parallel, you need to slide forward, or backward, the base of the SME tonearm, till you get it right.
 
The online protractor should have a small circle on one side that you need to punch through so that it sits on the centre spindle. (It helps to keep an LP on the TT while you're at it). Most have two null points, one each for the outermost and innermost grooves. You drop the stylus on to the null point, and the sides of your cartridge, or even the sides of the headshell, should be perfectly parallel to the lines on the protractor. In case they're not parallel, you need to slide forward, or backward, the base of the SME tonearm, till you get it right.

I got the part about punching a hole for inserting into the spindle. In fact I done that very carefully.

What I don't get is how to align the protractor on the platter. In the image below, I have put a question mark on one arrow direction. Should this arrow align exactly to the arm pivot?

Meaning, if I align this arrow to the pivot, the null points get automatically get positioned at the appropriate angles with respect to the spindle-pivot line, and I should then try to adjust cartridge to the nulls?

Is that the correct line of thinking?

Sorry for too many dumb questions.

Regarding the overhang, I have followed Keith Howard's recommendation of 16.43 mm (which I smartly set last night as 17.5mm!). Link here on page 2, instead of the more conventional Baerwald length of 15.84 mm.



Uploaded with ImageShack.us
 
Don't bother about the arrow. After fixing the protractor on to the spindle, move the tonearm towards the edge of the platter like you would if you were to play an LP. Then, move the protractor so that the outer null point is aligned below the stylus. Use the cueing lever. Once you've aligned the arm for the outer null point, do the same for the inner point. The protractor will need to be rotated slightly for the inner adjustment. In case the inner adjustment also needs shifting of the tonearm base, you'll need to recheck the outer adjustment once again. And back and forth till it's done. A pain, to be true, but once done, you don't need to bother again till you change the cartridge.
 
Hi Joshua,

The sight at pivot protractors have only one alignment point if I remember right, at any rate they are different, the geodesic is one such. Don't confuse the one you've downloaded with those types.

Personally I take overhang as an academic measurement. What you need to be measuring is the stylus on the two alignment points. When done your overhang gets automatically sorted out.

If I remember your arm is the series II and it has a detachable headshell. If this headshell has slots for cart mounting then you're faced with the glad prospect of double the trouble. :) First you need to set pivot spindle distance as per the Sme specs which you can find at vinylengine tonearm database. You do this by moving the tonearm in the bedplate. Then in order to get the stylus to sit on both alignment points of the protractor you move the cart in the headshell and NOT the Sme bedplate. If you move the bedplate you are changing the pivot to spindle distance. Whereas if you move the cart in the headshell you are changing the effective length which is the right way to do it if you want to achieve correct effective length. You can now see how overhang is changing depending on whether you're changing effective length or moving the entire tonearm forward.

You can ignore effective length too. Everyone who has a fixed no slot headshell arm like the improved Sme have no choice but to align simply by sliding the bedplate forward or back to get the stylus to align on two null points. Or even one as per the Sme single point alignment template.

G401fan has already shown you how to align, I'll add one variation. Start with the inner point as your errors tend to get magnified when you move to the outer. So if you're more careful at the inner point you have more chances of getting it right at the outer. This was good advice by mintlp for the arc protractor where you get the effective length correct first and then adjust offset angle. I'm guessing it will hold true for two point tractors also.

You might also find the stupid protractors on vinylengine easier. The two points are spaced out, all you have to do is put the tractor on, immobilize the platter so it does not move and move the stylus so it fits on the two points, it's easier to sort of judge the arc and get the stylus closer to the center of the null points since the points are are on a virtual arc and not in a line like the one you have currently where you need to move the tractor to get the second alignment.

Regards


Edit: wherever I've said moving the bedplate I mean moving the tonearm base in the bedplate slot forward or backward.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
A small point about Stevieboy's excellent instructions: The early model SME headshell in Joshua's photos has a fixed cartidge position - as also later SME headshells - which makes it possible to realign the stylus position only by moving the base of the tonearm.

An option, of course, is to use an offmarket universal headshell that has slotted openings for cartridge fixing. I've been trying to get the ADC magnesium one for some time now, but the prices are too high on eBay, for me at least.
 
Hi Joshua,
If I remember your arm is the series II and it has a detachable headshell. If this headshell has slots for cart mounting then you're faced with the glad prospect of double the trouble. :) First you need to set pivot spindle distance as per the Sme specs which you can find at vinylengine tonearm database. You do this by moving the tonearm in the bedplate. Then in order to get the stylus to sit on both alignment points of the protractor you move the cart in the headshell and NOT the Sme bedplate. If you move the bedplate you are changing the pivot to spindle distance. Whereas if you move the cart in the headshell you are changing the effective length which is the right way to do it if you want to achieve correct effective length. You can now see how overhang is changing depending on whether you're changing effective length or moving the entire tonearm forward.

The headshell is detachable but doesn't have slot - it has two holes. So I guess my troubles are halved :).

Pivot to Spindle distance: will measure this again. I think it is currently 221 mm.

You can ignore effective length too. Everyone who has a fixed no slot headshell arm like the improved Sme have no choice but to align simply by sliding the bedplate forward or back to get the stylus to align on two null points. Or even one as per the Sme single point alignment template.

Only bedplate adjustment is available. So I will have to work within this constraint.


G401fan has already shown you how to align, I'll add one variation. Start with the inner point as your errors tend to get magnified when you move to the outer. So if you're more careful at the inner point you have more chances of getting it right at the outer. This was good advice by mintlp for the arc protractor where you get the effective length correct first and then adjust offset angle. I'm guessing it will hold true for two point tractors also.

Thanks for this tip.

You might also find the stupid protractors on vinylengine easier. The two points are spaced out, all you have to do is put the tractor on, immobilize the platter so it does not move and move the stylus so it fits on the two points, it's easier to sort of judge the arc and get the stylus closer to the center of the null points since the points are are on a virtual arc and not in a line like the one you have currently where you need to move the tractor to get the second alignment.
Cu

I am stupidprotractor stage ONLY. As you can very well gauge, I am at that level:lol: and need to make some forward progress.

What I had done so far with the stupid protractor, in sequence of the deeds/misdeeds, commissions and omissions:lol: Please advise where I'd gone wrong:

1. carefully made the spindle hole so that it sits tightly.
2. placed the stupid protractor on the platter with said hole in stylus.
3. aligned the arrow (I had marked in earlier post) to point to the arm pivot point.
4. aligned outer null point by gently placing the tonearm on top of the outer null.
5. tried aligning inner null by moving tonearm towards the spindle. There is a huge gap of at least 20 mm so I don't know how to proceed from here because even if I am to move the arm on the bedplate, there is no way it will align to the inner null.

PS: as of last night, there is still some amount of distortion, especially on the inner grooves and can he heard more on upper bass frequencies.

PPS: since I am still trying to figure out proper alignment, I am still stuck with my trusty Shure M44-7 cartridge and haven't dared to open the M97xE box for fear that I may damage it.
 
An option, of course, is to use an offmarket universal headshell that has slotted openings for cartridge fixing. I've been trying to get the ADC magnesium one for some time now, but the prices are too high on eBay, for me at least.

I have an extra headshell lying around. Let me see tonight if it fits.
 
The protractor will need to be rotated slightly for the inner adjustment. In case the inner adjustment also needs shifting of the tonearm base, you'll need to recheck the outer adjustment once again. And back and forth till it's done.

I didn't try this as I found it to be counter-intuitive, since after aligning one null point, if I rotate the protractor it would lose the initial reference. But I will try it tonight.

PS: arm data per vinylengine:
Effective length: 228.6mm
Overhang: 15.14 mm
O/S (???): 22
Pivot to Spindle: 213.46 mm (I am seriously off here)
Null points: 60.3/110.9 (I think this is Baerwald).
 
I didn't try this as I found it to be counter-intuitive, since after aligning one null point, if I rotate the protractor it would lose the initial reference.

Hi Joshua,

You do not lose the initial reference point since in your back and forth, you will end up closer and closer to the center point of both till you land exactly in the middle of each. Since the points are in a line you have to rotate the protractor. There's another one with the nulls offset, where you don't have to rotate the protractor. That was the one I was referring to. Here you go, it was on enjoy the music sorry, not vinylengine. Of course with a headshell where you have no slots, pivot spindle distance becomes irrelevant so nothing else to worry about. Only work is getting the stylus on the two points :)

Free Cartridge Protractor And Speed Discs!
 
Since the points are in a line you have to rotate the protractor.

This is beginning to make sense to me. Tubelight:eek:. All along, I have been trying to fit a square peg in a round hole.

The protractor would not need movement only if the null points were marked on the arc traced by the stylus tip, but they are marked on a straight line.
 
@stevieboy & G401fan: One more question - is it possible to adjust the azimuth in 3009? I vaguely recall reading on the manual that this is possible as the tonearm tube is a friction fit.

The other day I was at Gerry_The_Merry's place, listening to his wonderful LP12 and we could see that the azimuth was a bit off, but we didn't dare to adjust it.
 
Joshua,

If you have the removable headshell yes you can rotate the silver collar by putting a ruler or something flat between the two slots and moving them towards vertical. If no removable headshell I guess paper shims over the screws under the headshell...?

Regards


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Joshua,

The procedure is the same with the fixed and removeable headhells.
Keep the tonearm on its rest and clamp it down. Grasp the end of the tonearm (close to the headshell) firmly with your left hand, so that the pressure you exert next does not reach the tonearm bearing. With your right hand - thumb and first two fingers - hold the end of the headshell and firmly twist it in the direction needed to make it parallel. The pressure should be firm, but not excessive, as the headshell may go all wonky. You need to go back and forth till you get it right. You can confirm perfect azimuth by using one of those lightweight circular spirit levels available regularly on eBay (see link).

It's safer to remove the stylus - if detachable - while you're doing all this.

Once done, you could - though it's not essential - tighten the little screw that's just below the tonearm-headshell join. The screw is so tiny that its threads tend to wear out if you have to tighten it too frequently. But once done it should stay true, provided you don't exert too much force when installing your next cartridge.



Tonearm Turntable Spirit Level Set 10mm 20mm & 30mm Levels | eBay
 
I implemented G401fan's suggestion over the weekend itself and immediately got the improvement while playing the inner tracks, which previously had been scratchy. Have ordered the rs400 spirit level just to be totally sure. Temporarily however I used a mirror but would not recommend it to people like jls001 who are more patient than me.
 
Finally used the stupid protractor. Luckily I wasn't off by much. I had to coax the very limited play in the headshell to get fine alignment to both nulls (besides pushing the bedplate back and forth). I had half a mind to enlarge the headshell holes to get a wee bit more play but decided against it for now, considering my non-existent skills with the round file. The sound is better now. Or so I like to think :). I discarded the topmost level of my rack and pushed the TT down one level. It is much more stable now (physically) compared to when it was sitting on the top level of the rack. At one point I was frustrated enough to shift it to the floor but soon realised that making adjustments on the floor was a bigger pain (you know where ):) So for now the task is to sit back and enjoy the music, and then change to the M97xE cart after a few days.

I had posted the arm data per vinylengine:
Effective length: 228.6mm
Overhang: 15.14 mm
O/S (???): 22
Pivot to Spindle: 213.46 mm (I am seriously off here)
Null points: 60.3/110.9 (I think this is Baerwald).

Even when pushing the arm closest to spindle, the pivot-arm distance is nowhere near 213.46mm. It is more like 219-221 mm. So I stuck to about 221 mm. I retained overhang at about 16.4~16.5mm. Either the above data is wrong or my arm board is wrongly drilled.

PS: is it a good idea to retain the mushrooms on which the turntable rests on the plinth, or should I discard it and make them contact each other in their Adam's suits? I am currently using the mushrooms.
 
I implemented G401fan's suggestion over the weekend itself and immediately got the improvement while playing the inner tracks, which previously had been scratchy. Have ordered the rs400 spirit level just to be totally sure. Temporarily however I used a mirror but would not recommend it to people like jls001 who are more patient than me.

Hi Gerry,

I got the tiny headshell spirit level from the UK and it turned out more to be a naughty sprite level which just wouldn't level! The bubble would show level and then if I picked it up and put it down again on the headshell it would go off kilter. Hope you have more luck!

Regards
 
Purchase the Audiolab 6000A Integrated Amplifier at a special offer price.
Back
Top