TDA7293 parallel design DIY

@flat_listener,
@Pranjal,

Thanks for your interest in the project;

As for selling the PCB, I have no intention to do so however if you are really interested, let me check if I can spare a pair of boards for you.:)

Hello Hydrovac,

Long time since you posted here... what is the progress of your amps build?
Most important... are you left with any PCBs to spare? :)
 
I was discussing with someone about this project. He said that it is very difficult implement a design paralleling chips, especially this one. Is it so?
As discussed, you may consider an amp tour, starting with me. ;):)

There are implementation specific details that influence the design during the track laying process the designer needs to understand the circuit topology and be aware of the problems that one can have with a parallel design.
7293's are kind of nice, but nothing to write home about---just a typical power op-amp affair, with the advantages of protection and paralleling capability.

With careful layout, power supply, wiring, and adequate heat sinking they will work. The prototype is working fine for five months Thank you for your suggestion.


Hello Hydrovac,

Long time since you posted here... what is the progress of your amps build?
Most important... are you left with any PCBs to spare? :)

Yes, long time... there is some build activity going on and will post an update soon.
Actually I have planned for active three way LCR mains but down sized to 2 way now. So, some spare boards should be leftover when I am done with the build.
I will reserve a pair of amp and power supply boards for you... ;)


Great Build.What is the dc offset for the two channel when we pause the source

Thanks, I generally measure the DC offset with no signal input... this one is about 10mv.
 
Great Hydrovac,

Looking forward to see you complete the build at the earliest :):)
Pl post pictures of the construction progress.
 
Introducing not a new build, but a rebuild:
I've been working on this amp lately, finally got around to post my 6+ months old project on the forum;
TDA7293 can be connected in parallel to drive low impedance and to increase output power especially at high voltages.
Furthermore the paralleling of chips reduces the total thermal resistance of the system and therefore reduces cooling demands to a level which is more likely to be handled correctly under all operating conditions.
Heat sinking is critical, of course, If you can, use the heat sink extrusions as structural pieces of your enclosure.

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Nice feet from DIYaudiocart.

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Compared to the prototype, made some improvisations in chip mounting and layout:
* Bigger enclosure to facilitate rack mounting.
* Amp boards and PSU were moved from one-above-the-other to side-by-side.
* Chips mounted directly on heat sink to decrease thermal resistance.
* To turn individual channels on/off I use switches placed between the transformer and the power supplies.
* Im using a copper braid to shield the signal wires.

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Top cover holes drilled using an old UPS side panel as jig.

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To mount chips directly a groove is required on the heat sink so, decided to use standard carbide tipped wood blade on a regular circular saw.
It cuts pretty well, if you are not too pushy I don't even think it loads the saw too much worse than a sheet of three quarter-inch plywood, despite this dry cutting, the saw blade did not load up with aluminum,
although some lubricant like WD40 would probably be a good addition, but the potential is certainly there.
The job I did was not planned out in advance, so my only choice was to grab the nearest 40T blade available.
I don't know if they make one, but a carbide tipped blade with about 50 or 60 teeth and a triple chip grind would be the ultimate blade to use for this application.

Everyone has a circular saw, so they can't be that dangerous, right? Maybe that's the problem the tool lures you in with its apparent ease of use, but could take your hand off with its ferocious kickback.
Circular saws have faster blades than table saws, with an outer edge spinning at about 120 mph, and they can cause some serious damage if used incorrectly or recklessly.

Safety Tips:
* Clamp your work piece so you can keep both hands on the tool.
* Make sure to wear safety glasses, gloves and other appropriate clothes, the aluminum chips seemed to fly in all directions with a great deal of force,
and they are both very sharp edged and extremely hot! can and will get everywhere.

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Build to continue...
 
This Grooving Part is the most Dangerous. Grooving with Circular saw is not advisable. You have to be very very careful while doing this kind of job.

And for the new DIYer's my Advise is "Please do not try this by yourself. Its Very Very Dangerous."

Sadik
 
This Grooving Part is the most Dangerous. Grooving with Circular saw is not advisable. You have to be very very careful while doing this kind of job.

And for the new DIYer's my Advise is "Please do not try this by yourself. Its Very Very Dangerous."

Sadik

That is precisely what I said and also mentioned to be cautious in my post!!!!. Do not try this unless you are well experienced and know what you are doing.
 
I am sure most of you must have experience with mounting Mosfets on the heatsink. The way it is mounted is of utmost important in order to transfer heat generated.
Questions have come up from time to time about how to properly mount the output MOSFETs and voltage regulators to the heat sinks. While it's not rocket science... perhaps a bit of an explanation may help.
I am happy with the Silicone pads in this application as they are less messy and perform nearly as well as the traditional Mica and thermal goo. As far as I can make out, they have lower thermal impedance than claimed.

However this is assuming a certain degree of smoothness of the metal... which is simply the flat surface of an anodized extrusion, and has a somewhat polished look to the finish. I smooth it with 800 grit sandpaper.
To mount it flat I have used a 10x10mm aluminum bar with two screws instead of single screw through the Chip. This way I am able to reduce thermal resistance considerably.

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More pictures of the guts of my amp. This thing isn't what I would call "good" with regard to wiring or layout.

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Amps Front plate and Top cover fixed:

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The two Amps along with the prototype:

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While it works, the hum is gone and sounds excellent it was really a lot more difficult and more work than I bargained for.
By the time I was done, this project was fun! Its done now, and Im relieved.
 
Outstanding build! Hydrovac,

Now that you are done with the construction of amps, can you spare some PCBs as mentioned in earlier post?:)

Cheers!
 
@flat_listener,

These are the boards (Amp & Power Supply) I am going to send.
As for the component placement, there is no silkscreen on the board... however I am sending a print out of the PCB with component values duly marked.

That should see you through the assembly, I am not aware of your DIY skills, though.;) Pl PM for any further assistance if needed.

Cheers!

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Purchase the Audiolab 6000A Integrated Amplifier at a special offer price.
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