DIY Super Simple Preamp

I mentioned that for OP because he may buy some washers and use pair of it for each RCA. Then still threads of RCA body can contact chassis. no objection for your explanation. Cheers.

This is a very valid point :thumbsup:

Personally, I wind teflon tape around the RCA tube where it can touch the chassis so that it is completely insulated. Yes, more time to prep your connector but gives you total peace of mind that there will be no shorting. After fixing the RCA, a quick beep test on the multimeter is sufficient to confirm whether there is a short between the chassis and the RCA socket body.
 
OK Guys, I think I have a serious problem here.

Norge amp owners may know that the Norge amp has no earthing (just a two pin plug); that's point no 1

Point no 2 is that, if I hold a tester to the -ve input of the Norge that's connected or not connected to the SSP, it flashes brightly; and when I turn the amp off it gets dim and goes off.

Now since I can only listen to the SSP via the Norge amp, is it that the hum is present because of this?
Hi,
That means your amp is not getting proper earthing. I had faced the same problem. Take a separate earthing wire from your main board ( local electrician will do ) and connect to the amplifier's steel body. This will cure your problem.
regds,
shafic
 
OK Guys, I think I have a serious problem here.

Point no 2 is that, if I hold a tester to the -ve input of the Norge that's connected or not connected to the SSP, it flashes brightly; and when I turn the amp off it gets dim and goes off.

Turn the plug 180 degrees around in the wall socket and check again, or have you checked it in both directions and the problem is still there?

Regards,
 
Turn the plug 180 degrees around in the wall socket and check again, or have you checked it in both directions and the problem is still there?

Regards,

Something I wanted to post about yesterday night, only to find out my local internet connection was down. I got it back today only..This 180 degree tactic sometimes works with problematic dvd players..
 
Something I wanted to post about yesterday night, only to find out my local internet connection was down. I got it back today only..This 180 degree tactic sometimes works with problematic dvd players..

I think that works only when L input has a filtering capacitor. If both L and N have caps, it does nothing. This is a grounding issue though.

G0bble
 
Hello sachu888,

I discovered this thread 4 days ago and am totally hooked!

I have a Norge 2060 and am very keen to build your SSP kit for it. Problem is I have zero experience with electronics concepts and only rudimentary familiarity with things such as a soldering iron, etc. but I'm willing make an attempt. (no risk, no gain, I say :) )

If you are supplying the kit, please tell me how I can get one.

I hope to turn to you and others on this thread who are knowledgeable and extremely helpful for guidance and troubleshooting.

Thanks!
 
Hi Sachin,

Just made a deposit into your account for the items we discussed. Please confirm receipt.

Thanks.
 
What are the power requirements for ssp preamp ie. max voltage and max current consumed? How much gain can we get from this or it can only be used as a buffer only?
 
What is the maximum voltage ssp can handle? I created a simple power supply for +/- 9v, will it sound better if I increase the voltage.
 
I am newbie in DIY, and wanted to try this simplest project. I was lucky enough to received an assembled kit from our FM Sann (thanks Sandeep!), and did minimal soldering to get connections out.

Then, panic: Absolutely no sound. Wondered if I burned the opamp (say, due to wrong insertion). Then I really started to understand simple things. What was happening was that I had blindly followed this diagram:


Hi,
Youcan use one 47k/50k Dual gang or two 25k mono Volume pots.There are CW,W and CCW prints on PCB for each channel(Left/Right)
CW: Clock wise
W: Wiper
CCW: Counter Clock wise
If you look at the pot from the front, where the knob goes with the connections at the bottom the left hand side connector is CCW, the middle one is W and the right hand side one is CW. The wiper is the contact that is connected to the shaft. Pic for reference
potentiometer.gif

By sachu888 at 2012-08-11

i.e. the wiper is shown connected to the CCW, hence the signal gets grounded, and so there was no sound coming out. (Also, Sann already gave me LME49990 opamp, and so I thought I might have burned it, and hence no sound.) Now it is all fine, and getting proper sound. :licklips::licklips:

I guess I have to wait for burn in. I have Norge 1200 power amp, and hope to see some good sound soon.

Open questions:

1. Want to design simplest, low noise power supply. Would this design be good enough? Assuming I am taking power from laptop adapter, so expecting SMPS noise: Using 3-pin regulators off-piste: part 4

2. Want to do simple IR based remote control using one of the cheap channel control boards out there. Any suggestions as to how one could go about doing it? Also, I am finding difficulty in searching the right reference design for Light Speed Attenuator. Request pointing me to right post. Would it be possible (and simpler) to create a WiFi based design? Since it will be near a Raspberry Pi, and I can take out some GPIO pins...

Thanks!
 
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