2.35:1 CIH and 16:9

flat_listener

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Hello,

I have some probably beginner questions so bear with me. First attempt at building a big screen home theater, but I am pretty DIY savvy and pretty familiar with audio/visual setup on a small scale and small budget.

I want to put in a 2.35:1 screen, I found the one I want and it's view able size is 127 inches x 54 inches. I have the perfect setup with a 14 foot wall behind the screen and a solid 12-16 feet distance from the wall to place the projector.

I am trying to stay away form Anamorphic lens, Video processor etc., simply due to budget.

Is there a projector (on a seriously low budget here so <150K) that will project 2.35:1 and automatically switch to 16:9/HD signal when I switch over to watch sports etc. I realize there black bars on the sides etc when I go to 16:9 but I have got to have the 2.35:1 because it's just too cool and most of my movie collection is in the 2.35:1 ratio. I found the Panasonic PT-AE 8000 which seem to be my front runner right now, they promote it has screen memory settings that do this type of switching. I was wondering if the Epson or Ben Q projectors in this price range, have the screen memory settings that allow the projector to automatically switch? Maybe I have the right/only unit already selected in the Panasonic? I am not really looking for "which is best" I can research that, but I am looking to research as many units as I can that can do this sort of switching.

Thank you for your input, and I look forward to taking on this project!
 
I have a EPSON 8100 and it specifies the LCD as 1980x1080 native that means it is natively 16:9 format only.

I did not come across any projector mentioning 2.35:1 native display in HD.

Your observation is correct all the movies we are in 2.35 :1 and does not fill the screen if 16:9 is the screen format.
 
great decision flat listener. Yes go for panasonic. as far as i know, second to anamorphic lens, the memory feature is the only thing that can help in your purpose.

The only cheapest alternative that is possible and can be done via any projector is have black (preferably electronically movable) curtains on all 4 sides in a 16:9 screen. Sure the only minus is it will make 16:9 images look bigger than 2.35.

I know what you are going for that is Ideally to make 2.35 wider and look bigger than 16:9. But if you go for the other way round have 16:9 screen and just move custains from top and bottom when viewing 2.35, u dont need projector to do anything.depends you want 2.35 movies to view less vertically or 16:9 movies to view less horizontally.

Personally i would prefer a 16:9 screen for only one reason the IMAX blu rays make them IMAX scenes in 16:9 ratio. So you will not get the IMAX effect from these sources on a 2.35 screen with memory feature enabled projector. But its personal preference for a real 2.35 true widescreen impact.
 
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Hello,

I have some probably beginner questions so bear with me. First attempt at building a big screen home theater, but I am pretty DIY savvy and pretty familiar with audio/visual setup on a small scale and small budget.

I want to put in a 2.35:1 screen, I found the one I want and it's view able size is 127 inches x 54 inches. I have the perfect setup with a 14 foot wall behind the screen and a solid 12-16 feet distance from the wall to place the projector.

I am trying to stay away form Anamorphic lens, Video processor etc., simply due to budget.

Is there a projector (on a seriously low budget here so <150K) that will project 2.35:1 and automatically switch to 16:9/HD signal when I switch over to watch sports etc. I realize there black bars on the sides etc when I go to 16:9 but I have got to have the 2.35:1 because it's just too cool and most of my movie collection is in the 2.35:1 ratio. I found the Panasonic PT-AE 8000 which seem to be my front runner right now, they promote it has screen memory settings that do this type of switching. I was wondering if the Epson or Ben Q projectors in this price range, have the screen memory settings that allow the projector to automatically switch? Maybe I have the right/only unit already selected in the Panasonic? I am not really looking for "which is best" I can research that, but I am looking to research as many units as I can that can do this sort of switching.

Thank you for your input, and I look forward to taking on this project!

The first thing you want to do is consider whether or not you really have the room or the budget for a 2.35 setup.

You have found the AE8000, which is really not bright enough to fill a screen of the size you are talking about, but it's the only projector on the market which can zoom in and out.
It does NOT do it automatically, you must press a button on the remote to switch between zoom presets.

Keep in mind, this is a 16:9 projector. There are no 2.35 projectors on the market near your price range.
If you can find it, the JVC RS46 model also has lens presets.

The reason I ask if you have really thought this through is that a 2.35 screen with a 16:9 projector requires that the projector pushes a 16:9 image 127" wide, with light falling off above/below the screen.
Why not just get a 127" wide 16:9 screen? If you don't like the black bars top and bottom, then mask the screen down with curtains to make it look like a 2.35 screen.

That way, you open yourself up to a ton of options with front projection and aren't locked into the marketing of a 2.35 screen and the complete lack of projectors which can deliver.

Actually, for what it's worth, you may also want to look at a projector like the Sony HW40ES, and a lesser expensive Anamorphic lens like this model:
Introducing the Phoenix raising lost brightness and definition from the ashes of black bars.

Otherwise, you use the AE8000 and accept it will be dim on a screen that size.
 
@ flat_listener

Excellent input, and truly I probably don't have the budget today for a "real" 2.35:1 setup with expensive projector which is why I am looking to tweak a less expensive 16:9 projector.
Before I completely abandon 2.35:1 I wanted to ask if a somewhat smaller screen would do the trick as far as the projector getting dim etc. so the 127 inch wide screen I could maybe knock down to 119 or so sounds like the smaller the better.
I have a very dark room room with only 1 window, even that window is maybe 2x3.

I would also be willing to hold off the purchase of the projector, to save some more dough to get a projector that might be bright enough to better support the wide screen mode.

My issue with going with the bigger 16:9 is that the picture might just be too big I feel like 16:9 is going to cause a lot more eye scanning/fatigue at that size than the 2.35 I was hoping for. (and maybe that is my misconception and I am completely wrong on that?)

So if I went 16x9 I'd probably stick something just south of 120 inches, which is still huge. almost sounds like 2.35:1 is a little cost prohibitive yet..or at least really expensive to do effectively?

thank you this is exactly the input I was hoping for and the VERY type of pitfalls I wanted to avoid.

I want the best picture available for sure. I am not overly visually critical, but I am pretty sure I'd notice dimness, or a general lack of clarity.
 
The new Epson 5040UB (don't know the india model no) does have lens memory. And it's plenty bright.

About 2.35 setup - I had it in the past. I had a 12 ft wide 2.37 screen. Had the anamorphic lens, video scaler to do the stretch etc. I moved from it to 11 ft wide 16:9 setup. It's a much simpler setup. The big reason is the difference in screen sizes diagonally when you switch from 2.35 to 16:9.

For 12 ft wide 2.37 screen.
Diagonal size for 2.37 aspect ratio - 156"
Diagonal size for 16:9 aspect ratio - 122"

For 12 ft wide 16:9 screen.
Diagonal size for 2.37 aspect ratio - 156"
Diagonal size for 16:9 aspect ratio - 165"

From these calculations, you will find that the picture size has less difference for different aspect ratios if you go with 16:9 screen.
 
@flat_listener -

Really one of the best things you can do is pick a good projector for your room, and try it out.

You are asking for 127" of width with 2.35, and 16:9 is just taller, not any wider, so you really aren't changing much with 16:9 in this setup if you just go with a 150" diagonal 16:9 screen, you may really like it.

But, my point is not to GET a 150" screen, but get a projector which supports such a size. Like the Sony HW40ES, which is well reviewed, great for gaming, and has good light output after calibration.

THEN TRY IT!

Throw a sheet on the wall, try some different sizes. If you can, don't rush the installation until you actually see what a 150" 16:9 image looks like, then compare it to a 2.35 image of the same width. Then make the 16:9 image smaller.

I actually did this for my friend sitting 9' from 134" diagonal. I set up their projector, they brought in some lawn chairs while their room was being constructed, and we fired up the projector for about an hour.
I started smaller. About 120" diagonal (like you are talking about), then took it up to 134" diagonal. He was very happy with the on-wall image size. Much to his surprise.

In almost all cases people are finding they are quite happy with about 10" to 12" of diagonal for each foot of viewing distance and in a 16:9 setup.

But, instead of second guessing a solution, try out some options if you can. I'm not sure what stage you are in with your basement, but I would start with a good projector, then go from there.

For what it's worth - you can get the Sony HW40ES, and a cheaper screen, which you could then upgrade later on if you aren't happy, but I would buy it, then test it, then buy a screen the way you want it.
You may have to get a lens for it later, or just some motorized curtains/masking which does the same thing.

You can also buy screens which have 'snap on' masks which frame down a 16:9 screen to 2.35.
 
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