All the speakers I made - suri

Oh..the Wenches all decked in designer precious metals now...all ready for their first real ride ?
do take it easy the first couple of hours before you drive them hard.:p
 
Hi,

Suri Kudos my friend on this wonderful feat that you've achieved :clapping: !!

It looks interesting,will certainly take a closer look whenever possible and also would love to hear the new creation in all its glory !

Regards.
 
AFAIK, there is no speaker maker who has this type of binding posts. If patentable, (I'm sure it is) why don't you apply for a patent Suri:)

how does one go about this? - absolutely no idea - but would surely like to have a binding post called SBT !(suri's binding tee!) - which would compete with WBT!!!:lol:
 
how does one go about this? - absolutely no idea - but would surely like to have a binding post called SBT !(suri's binding tee!) - which would compete with WBT!!!:lol:

You can get the information here: IPO - Intellectual Property Office (India)

Best thing is to engage a patent agent. A list of them is here:
http://www.patentoffice.nic.in/ipr/patent/patent_agent/List_PatentAgent_31December2009.pdf

I've engaged one Mr. Selvan Babu for applying for a patent for an alarm system that I am developing.

But of course, all this would depend on the outcome Suri. I think you must do an extensive side by side testing of cables using this technique and conventional techniques like banana plug, direct wiring etc.
 
Patenting in India is fine but if keen to protect your intellectual property, you need to apply for patent at USPTO (United States Patent & Trademark Office). Takes about 3 yrs.

The 1st step is to apply for patent in home country because thats what counts and is also far cheaper.

Then comes foreign patents like US, Europe, China etc.

Assuming an Indian files for a patent today here & 6 months later applies in US, he would get patent rights from the day he files patent in the home country i.e. he would get claim over someone who filed for a patent in us at a later date.
 
Hi Suri,

Congratulations on your newly made speakers and the binding posts. About the binding posts, I like to say one thing: I have always been unhappy with banana and spades. Spades are better I feel, because one can tighten, but still for various reasons I have not liked them either. As a result I have been using bare wire for speakers for the last nearly 30 years. Bare wires have their own problems with oxidation etc, and once in a while you have to scrape off and tighten etc. I'd like to know your reasons for designing these new type of binding posts.

Regards.
 
Hi Suri,

Amazing! Only people can think beyond normal (do not read it as you are abnormal) can make these possible.

I wish I could manage a short visit to Kannur next time when I go home (Kollam) and listen this speakers.

rgds,
Venu
 
gvenu, going by what I have heard( the Witches of sound) the soon to be finished WOE should turn out even better, and are absolutely worth a trip to Kannur!
Omg, last saturday was one day of awesome sound n music!
 
Hi Suri,

Congratulations on your newly made speakers and the binding posts. About the binding posts, I like to say one thing: I have always been unhappy with banana and spades. Spades are better I feel, because one can tighten, but still for various reasons I have not liked them either. As a result I have been using bare wire for speakers for the last nearly 30 years. Bare wires have their own problems with oxidation etc, and once in a while you have to scrape off and tighten etc. I'd like to know your reasons for designing these new type of binding posts.

Regards.

hi asit

i probably have an obsessive compulsive disorder - but, in the attempt to get a "gas-tight" connection at the binding post of the loudspeaker it struck me that we were living with compromises and overlooking deficiencies -

for example - in the WBT (topline) series - there is a patented mechanism for clamping on the spade of the incoming (amplifier) wire (disregarding the crimp between the wire and the spade which could be imperfect) - BUT - the inside wire (to cross-over) is proposed to mate with the metal of the binding post by way of a hex-nut - this IMO will not guarantee a gas-tight connection.

Cranky happened to mention - "dammit- why not solder the wires directly?"
and that made me think -

that would not be very aesthetic!

i started thinking of a way that would allow the wires to mate directly - and allow pressure to be applied directly (great pressure without disruption) - and yet, allow dismantling in a user-friendly way (when the need arose)

and that led to this -

but tell me - can you think of something to make it better?

regds

but, of course, the best way would be to do away with the binding posts on both the amplifier as well as the loudspeaker - and connect the output of the amplifier (seamlessly) to the voice coil of the transducer.
 
Last edited:
You might want to think about air gaps in the mating surfaces. As tight as you can make it, you still have two halves connecting to each other through the diameter of the clamped wire.

It is still an excellent connection, but I think you will need to have some kind of preform on the wires (solder? plated lug?) to ensure a truly gas-tight connection. As it is, it is not so. The wires are going to deform under pressure and over time, this is something that will need to be handled before you implement it. Basically, I see it as a kind of a bare wire connection, very similar to the nut and bolt system used by most manufacturers, just slightly different. I could arguably simulate the connection by using a binding post that allows you to directly solder to it (some WBTs, most Cardas) instead of a bolted lug, and a bare wire connection.

but what i plan to do is - after the wing nuts have been tightened - touch a 250 degree C solder tip to the surface of the (male) silver plate - this should melt the solder at the mating surfaces - how does one know that this has happened? - well, one person keeps a constant tightening tension on the wing nuts while the other applies the heat - when the solder melts, there will be a slight "give"

to disconnect - one would have to loosen the wing nuts - and apply the hot iron again

edit - i would imagine it to be something of a tight crimp of the two pre-soldered wires with a hot iron applied after the crimping

and, arguably, the closest one can get to directly soldering the wires together - while maintaining aesthetic form
 
Last edited:
Thanks to both Suri and Cranky for putting your views on this subject. As I said, all these years I have been unhappy and worried about the speaker cable connections. I do not possess the skills to think of a solution.

Regards.
 
Silver melts at 1000 degrees C. Most silver solder melts at around 600 degrees. If you've used alloy solder (lead/tin/silver) on pure silver, it will simply not do - the construction is not rigid and the contact is not even :( A one-piece post will probably be better, even if is plated brass.

Try to think of a solution where the entire post/receptacle is a single piece, and can take a wire fastened directly to it using an insert. Also think of the incoming wire being crimped on to the insert mechanically, filled with solder *before* it mates.

I apologise if this is sounding pedantic and argumentative. I'm simply trying to improve the design.

hi cranky - no - not melting the silver -only soft soldering - the wires will be pre-soldered before being placed in the receptacle - the chinese soldering iron that i have shows a max setting of 350 degree centigrade and at 250 C setting it melts the WBT-0800 (madisound no.) silver solder that i have (almost instantly)

the legend regarding the product states -

"A 4% fine silver content lead based solder not intended for the European market. The halogen-free flux is gentle on precious metal surfaces. The melting temperature is extremely low at 180?C / 356?F.
42 grams / 0.123 lbs.
0.9mm diameter x 10m (32.8')
Not RoHS compliant - contains lead
For more information, please visit the brand overview."
WBT-0800 Silver Solder 42 grams from Madisound

i have actually done this prior to getting the posts made -

in summary - the silver wires are coated with silver solder - each strand separately with a pointed soldering iron - needs lots of patience! - this is to be done after the wire is threaded through the silver tube and splayed on the receptacle base-

the wing nuts are tightened - and a (larger tipped) soldering iron is applied hot to the external surface of the silver plate - it takes 2 seconds for the silver solder to melt - and at that point if the wing nuts are tightened - a gas-tight connection will/should result -

and cranky - silver was used only because it is a malleable metal and silversmiths are available to give shape to this metal - i would have just as easily used brass or copper if they were easy to work with-

essentially - i think the point of the whole exercise is to hold the two wires in close proximity and under pressure while the solder melds the two ends of the wires for electrical continuity - avoiding the use of the metal of the binding post as a conductor

here is a picture of caps made to conceal the fixation points of the binding posts-

bindingpostsforthewitch.jpg

By witchesofsound at 2010-03-19
 
Last edited:
the folly of DIY - when i thought of making the binding posts with a silversmith's help - i thought i could make it on the cheap - but no!!!


thefollyofdiy002.jpg

By witchesofsound, shot with DMC-FZ7 at 2010-03-24

only hope it works better than WBT topline - but then, who will know!! probably cognitive dissonance and the way the human mind deals with this - will solve the problem!
 
and here comes the big one -

the "something-special" - that something "propietary" that will make these "witches of ecstasy" unique!

themagicthatbinds003.jpg

By witchesofsound, shot with DMC-FZ7 at 2010-03-24

notice the brown "material" placed at strategic junctions along the cloth sleeve that covers the silver wires -

these are "super-special" and exclusive to the "witches of ecstasy"

what are they made of ? - in an exclusive licensing exercise with Dupont and suri - a brown nano fibre was developed to trap errant electrons and shoot them back into the signal stream - it is a well known fact that electrons carrying the utterly delicate audio analog signal in a direct path from the amplifier to the driver can reach a relative dead-end and emerge at the surface of the conductor and impact the insulation/dielectric - that electron is shot back like a bouncing golf ball into the path of orderly electrons causing them to suddenly- and catastrophically - change their direction of spin - this creates anti-matter - suri's intense research has proved that these tiny releases of intense energy (when matter meets anti-matter) are the cause of non-realistic degradation of the UTTERLY delicate audio signal (this delicate audio signal should be likened to a diaphanous veil fluttering freely in a gentle and measured breeze)-

this new material - which has been subjected to intense formation baptism in the large hadron collider - serves to gently direct these errant electrons back into the signal path without disturbing the existing flow of electrons - thereby maintaining the delicacy of the impossibly fragile and beautiful audio signal -( the quality of this signal has been likened to the wings of the El Segundo Blue Butterfly)

the process is exclusive and has been licensed to D.V.L.I. based out of Kannur, India, in an exclusive licensing deal with Dupont
 
Last edited:
Suri, great to see things progressing.
About the last part, with you, I dont know whether its serious or your sc***ing with our heads! Hadron collider, Dupont, Suri, lots of big names.
 
sigh... poor electrons trapped for life into obeying their master suri... no freedom... no blue skies... no stopping to smell the roses... no escaping to the beach for a day... bad man suri so tough on those poor electrons
 
A beautiful, well-constructed speaker with class-leading soundstage, imaging and bass that is fast, deep, and precise.
Back
Top