Any experience with AUCHARM components?

matazooma

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Dear FMs,

I was checking the theaudiocrafts.com website and have seen some power cables, spade connectors, binding posts of this brand Aucharm. Does anyone has any personal experience with this brand, any inputs on the build quality of their components, etc? I am not finding any website for this brand or any details at all on the net, may be its an OEM manufacturer.
 
Dear FMs,

I was checking the theaudiocrafts.com website and have seen some power cables, spade connectors, binding posts of this brand Aucharm. Does anyone has any personal experience with this brand, any inputs on the build quality of their components, etc? I am not finding any website for this brand or any details at all on the net, may be its an OEM manufacturer.
I bought few Aucharm IEC inlets and RCA plugs from theaudiocrafts.com and quality of the items found to be good.
 
I bought a few pairs of bullet styled RCA plugs. They are a good option as not too much else is available. Quality is satisfactory and they aren't as good as eichman but they are also in a different price bracket.
 
The ones I bought have nylon heads and brass shells as per them. I wanted all nylon/non metal ideally.
Attaching a couple of photos and hope it helps.
 

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The ones I bought have nylon heads and brass shells as per them. I wanted all nylon/non metal ideally.
Attaching a couple of photos and hope it helps.
Thanks. On the website for example it says as made up of 4N copper. So just wanted to double check their claims.
 

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Finally got the Plugs and Cable from Audiocraft.

The power cable cost on the site is for 1 meter only, they send you a mail if you want to change the length. I opted for 1.5M which was 600 more. Was a quick delivery, only gripe was I had no idea what had happened with my order after the payment. But a reply on the mail thread they reverted quickly saying it is shipped.

Plugs look and feel solid, so as the cable. Mom asked me is this a snake, it is thick.
Getting plugs connected to the wire took 30-45mins. Oh yes and they provided a decent length heat sink tube.

Changed the power cord of my Crown XLS and using these. They fit tight and perfectly. But you should have US type plug inputs to have these fit properly.
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20210712_152559-2.jpg20210712_152543.jpg
 
When I disconnected all of my gear for some reason AVR couldn't keep my previous settings after reboot :mad:
And too early to judge, but the cable shorting headache has gone away. this cable is well built.
 
Looks fantastic. Nice DIY job. Let us the your impressions after some usage.

Finally got the Plugs and Cable from Audiocraft.

The power cable cost on the site is for 1 meter only, they send you a mail if you want to change the length. I opted for 1.5M which was 600 more. Was a quick delivery, only gripe was I had no idea what had happened with my order after the payment. But a reply on the mail thread they reverted quickly saying it is shipped.

Plugs look and feel solid, so as the cable. Mom asked me is this a snake, it is thick.
Getting plugs connected to the wire took 30-45mins. Oh yes and they provided a decent length heat sink tube.

Changed the power cord of my Crown XLS and using these. They fit tight and perfectly. But you should have US type plug inputs to have these fit properly.
View attachment 59438
View attachment 59436View attachment 59437
 
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Is there any sound quality improvement over stock cable?
No difference. This is the same cable I made (post /index.php?threads/where-to-get-shielded-3-core-power-cables.87845/post-990630). Not just this, I converted almost all my power cables to shielded. Done a lot of experimentation with cables. My experience has been like this

1) For the RCA interconnects, choose cable that have the lowest capacitiance per meter. Else the high frequency sheen becomes less. For many the opposite (high capacitance cables) make them turn up the volume by chosing the volume as per the volume felt by the mids and the high frequency. This has the effect of increasing the bass. But for the volume control at the same position, the cable with the lowest capacitance has given me the best quality of the higher frequency. The cheapest low capacitance cables I found were to use twisted pairs from ethernet cable and without any shielding. Also the shorter the better. This I have tested using a preamp with a selector switch to chose two different pairs of interconnects.

2) For speaker wires, don't even look at anything lower than 12 AWG. Speaker wires thinner than 12AWG and especially if they are long totally robs the dynamics, the foot tapping response. I have been able to test this using a speaker selector switch. One input with a thinner wire and another input with thick speaker wire. The moment I choose the selector switch to use the longer wire, there is an almost imperceptible decrease in volume, but the dynamics go away and it is mostly the low end that decreases.

3) as far as power cable is concerned, I have tested only by changing cables and that takes more than 20 seconds or so. So it may be reverse Psychoacoustics (I have a condition where I refuse to believe that something as simple as transfer of power in today's times that cannot be explained by science). So it is possible I have a mind that is totally biased against that cobra look-alike cable. The only reason I spent money in converting all my power ables to shielded cables is because snake oil cable manufacturers who claim that power cables emit so much interference that it pollutes the music. The snake oil industry now days take a scientific fact and twist it around to sound authentic. In today's times, nothing pollutes the electric supply than CFL, LED bulbs, SMPS power supplies (in laptop chargers, phone chargers, your amp too if it can be turned on by a remote). But I do have plan to connect two power cables with a selector switch to one of my DIY amp and test if power cables like that snake below change the sonic signature.

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