Are you confused over bi-wiring, jumpers & dual binding posts?

corElement

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Fear not!

Here's a little Jugadr I've been using for the last couple of months which a lot of you may or may not be familiar with.

Banana jack, spade users & bi-ampers beware! This may be too low class a solution!

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How it's done:

1. Measure how much exposed wire you need / how much casing you need to leave.

2. Cut it away without cutting yourself up!

3. Insert into binding posts!

Pros:
- Eliminates any risk of oscillation within receiver/amplifier's zone A+B binding posts and eliminates risk of damaging speaker drivers.
- Save cost on extra wire to let you get better quality wire.
- No loss of conductivity between binding posts
- Better conductivity than jumpers when using bare wire (It's the wire itself, what more could you want?)
- Looks neat as compared against messy passive bi wiring.

Cons:
- Risk of cutting yourself up! Unless of course your partner likes a scar or two. :licklips:
- Takes a little precision to not tear strands while cutting away casing towards the inside.
- Time consuming
- Exposed wire haters calling you a cheapass for having exposed wire that will oxidize over time (Solution - cut away that section once a year and make a new connection..just have enough loose wire to spare those few inches every year. Chances are by the 4th year you'll have new wires entirely.)

LET THE OPINIONS BEGIN! :ohyeah:
 
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i have been on the lookout for a pair of wires to biamp my b&w 602 s2...guess i will save money this way :p what cables are they anyway?
 
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I have always used a similar method, in every single speaker I have ever owned that had bi-wiring terminal :p

The difference, however, in my case is that -- I never cut the wire (No knives please, we are Indians). I just burn the plastic part carefully and pull it out. Then clear the rough parts slowly and carefully.
 
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