Are you confused over bi-wiring, jumpers & dual binding posts?

corElement

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Fear not!

Here's a little Jugadr I've been using for the last couple of months which a lot of you may or may not be familiar with.

Banana jack, spade users & bi-ampers beware! This may be too low class a solution!

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How it's done:

1. Measure how much exposed wire you need / how much casing you need to leave.

2. Cut it away without cutting yourself up!

3. Insert into binding posts!

Pros:
- Eliminates any risk of oscillation within receiver/amplifier's zone A+B binding posts and eliminates risk of damaging speaker drivers.
- Save cost on extra wire to let you get better quality wire.
- No loss of conductivity between binding posts
- Better conductivity than jumpers when using bare wire (It's the wire itself, what more could you want?)
- Looks neat as compared against messy passive bi wiring.

Cons:
- Risk of cutting yourself up! Unless of course your partner likes a scar or two. :licklips:
- Takes a little precision to not tear strands while cutting away casing towards the inside.
- Time consuming
- Exposed wire haters calling you a cheapass for having exposed wire that will oxidize over time (Solution - cut away that section once a year and make a new connection..just have enough loose wire to spare those few inches every year. Chances are by the 4th year you'll have new wires entirely.)

LET THE OPINIONS BEGIN! :eek:hyeah:
 
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i have been on the lookout for a pair of wires to biamp my b&w 602 s2...guess i will save money this way :p what cables are they anyway?
 
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I have always used a similar method, in every single speaker I have ever owned that had bi-wiring terminal :p

The difference, however, in my case is that -- I never cut the wire (No knives please, we are Indians). I just burn the plastic part carefully and pull it out. Then clear the rough parts slowly and carefully.
 
hey man, looks like you are actually seriously bored as you stated in the other thread:lol:
 
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