Building a Plinth for Lenco L75

A very interesting comparison of some of the very best idler turntables - see post number 35.

http://www.lencoheaven.net/forum/index.php?topic=20216.msg283517;boardseen#new

The writer of that post is very experienced in these matters and I consider his opinion seriously. I had the privilege of enjoying music on his double EMT 927 + horns system and it was a wonderful experience. Last month he toured Japan with Mr. Jean Hiraga (yes, the famous amp and speaker designer) and heard 15 superlative horn systems. He shall make a report about them shortly.

The SWISS MADE L75 that is doing duty as my main tt right now is a invaluable gift from him.

Regards,
 
I'm trying out another thrust plate, this time made of nylon. Doesn't sound all that different from delrin.

I'm also DIYing an idler wheel with aluminium and O ring, but I haven't got it right. The bushing I made has a very slightly larger hole than the original, and so it wobbles unacceptably. Need to rework the bushing with tighter tolerance. Also, I need to figure out how to impart V profile to the round profile O ring. Any ideas?
 
Joshua keep in mind that your chosen material has to bear weight of platter on single point. Also it should last like original lasted for few decades. Otherwise bearing damages could be worse. Frankly spoken - I am suspicious about nylon.
 
Joshua keep in mind that your chosen material has to bear weight of platter on single point. Also it should last like original lasted for few decades. Otherwise bearing damages could be worse. Frankly spoken - I am suspicious about nylon.

Let's see how nylon fares. Will check and compare with delrin after a couple of weeks. My understanding is nylon is softer than Teflon, which in turn is softer than delrin. I think PEEK is even harder.
 
After some reworking the idler wheel is now playing. Perhaps the severest test of speed stability is piano solo. It passes this test, though I still detect a slight wobble when the idler rotates. The toughest part of making an idler wheel is shaping the rubber to a V profile. I used round profile O ring. It would be better, on hindsight, to use flat profile ring. Also, the metal wheel tends to get ever so slightly deformed when drilling holes and general machining. It would be nice to have it pressed in a hydraulic please press after all shaping is done. The slight deformation is sufficient to show up as a slight wobble, so it is undesirable. The bushing is made of brass. I think the best way to make this would be to make it a single piece (wheel and bushing of one piece) machined from a brass rod of appropriate diameter.
 
Not sure but see if this would be any good. Take a sintered bronze piece, drill ID little less than required OD as needed in outer wheel. Press fit bronze bush in it. Than mount on lathe, with brand new sharp cutting tool make appropriate ID in bronze bush (other wise it will fill the bronze bush holes. and simultenously cut V shape or round shape for 'O' rubber ring. This will give perfection. Other option is you can press rubber sheet between two metal disc also. Like sandwich.
Mind you all suggestion are from armchair machinist :lol:. As I am sure an experienced machinist will give you proper workable solution.
Regards
 
something like this. A rubber sheet pressed between two plates.
i6fv46.jpg

This way you only have to worry about ID of the bush and OD of the rubber wheel is perfectly concentric. So as it is not off center. Rest of the components should balance and center as well as it would be ideal but not extremely significant as rubber wheel and bush.
Regards
 
@ Hiten, I inspected the original idler wheel closer and was quite surprised to realise that it uses a two part bronze bushing, possibly sintered. I did some browsing and found that igus polymer bushings (model name iglidur) are available in the required size of 2.5 mm internal diameter (and OD of 6 mm and 3 mm length). I learned something very interesting from my machinist recently - he told me use two bushes, one at each end of the coupling, if you want to reduce vibrations. And that's exactly what is used in most platter bearings, and even on the Lenco idler wheel!!! I think it is a track worth pursuing (igus bushing instead of the traditional sintered bronze bushing, together with the idea of machining the wheel from a single piece of brass). Machining from a single piece takes away one source of variability - perpendicularity of the bushing assembly with respect to the wheel plate. Most machinist can do a fine job with turning, and will produce something that is true. But where error creeps in is when trying to pressure fit the bushing assembly to the wheel.I guess it takes a more sophisticated tool than a hammer to fit it exactly right.

To extend this line of thinking, one can also try igus bushing for the platter bearing. But reading from the experiences of people who've done this, it seems the spindle is a loose fit, so if one wants to go the whole hog, one should make a fresh spindle as well. I'm not pursuing this for now as I don't use the stock bearing.
 
Yes single piece would certainly be more precise. The use of two bushing would probably be used as if longer ones are used and press fitted they may deform. And two bushes would have less surface area to reduce the noise.

I would take this opportunity to appreciate the DIY work you are doing. This requires time, efforts and money. Your efforts are surely helping the forum and reason I log in.
Best regards.
 
Any idea if capacitive loading matters for high output MCs into an MM phono stage?

I just started using the Denon DL 160 High Output MC after a long time. Earlier I was using 33 kohms resistive loading for the Decca cartridge as it sounded best to my ears. For the DL 160 the 33 kohms doesn't sound lively enough. So I tried 68 kohms and it's too lively and at times shouty:) Will try 47 kohms soon. But the product leaflet for the DL 160 says >47 kohms loading, which was the reason I tried 68k.

Should I bother with capacitive loading for the DL 160?
 
Is it possible to eliminate the MM phono stage since this is a high output cart.

Google denon DL 160 and see lpgear page
 
So I tried 47 kohms default loading as well as 51kohms. Neither sounded right. I went by the MC formula of using 10x loading of internal impedance. Since the DL 160 has 160 ohms internal impedance, I tried various values from 1kohm to 1.8kohms and settled with 1.8kohms. It sounds the most balanced to my ears. The fatiguing and sometimes etchy highs is certainly gone. So if you're using HOMC, try loading it at ~10x of its internal impedance even if the manufacturer recommends 47k loading.
 
HOMC, try loading it at ~10x of its internal impedance even if the manufacturer recommends 47k loading.

Hi Joshus, thanks for posting this.Hypnotoad also created resister calculator for his first HTMCPS based on same formula.

Regards
Sachin
 
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