Building Two way speakers with Ahuja 12" and Compression driver

Technically there is no need to change the Qts or Fs of the driver, withing reasonable variation any decent Qts or Fs can be used. However you started with a target Qts and Fs in mind and hence the replies. Also do note, ading mass changes the sensitivity of driver, which has to be factored in the crossover design.

OB/Dipole is xmax hungry, if the driver has sufficient xmax then the most important requirement is met. Now, lets see Fs and Qts, these two will give you a flat or peaking or over damped (drooping) frequency response. Eq can easily correct the frequency response.

First implement your crossover on PC with a sound card ie active setup. Lots of parameters can be changed on PC in a jiffy. Measure and apply EQ to get a flat response then make active analog or dsp based crossover.
Dear diyaudio, there are so many things that I can not handle right now, but still love to learn. Whatever I'm doing right now were nearly impossible tasks one year back. But all the notes and screenshots i took over the last few years....I'm implementing them today. So all the inputs you people are giving today, I'm sure il be using them tomorrow. Thanks a lot for all your help !!!
 
Technically there is no need to change the Qts or Fs of the driver, withing reasonable variation any decent Qts or Fs can be used. However you started with a target Qts and Fs in mind and hence the replies. Also do note, ading mass changes the sensitivity of driver, which has to be factored in the crossover design.

OB/Dipole is xmax hungry, if the driver has sufficient xmax then the most important requirement is met. Now, lets see Fs and Qts, these two will give you a flat or peaking or over damped (drooping) frequency response. Eq can easily correct the frequency response.

First implement your crossover on PC with a sound card ie active setup. Lots of parameters can be changed on PC in a jiffy. Measure and apply EQ to get a flat response then make active analog or dsp based crossover.
That's an awesome advice on using a pc. Makes my life a lot more easy !!:)
I'm getting the 15" driver you suggested
 
I just gave an option and yes as diyaudio mentioned it will bring down the sensitivity. You can try adding washer with a magnet in front to fix it. The washer behind the cone should act as a sheild for magnet as well use atleast 2 to make the weight distribution more even
 
I would also suggest to go for a small fullrange to handle the mids/highs, maybe Boston/Philips 8" or something similar, there will be a wide band available to put the crossover, a simple 1st order could do.

Crossover for a compression driver will be technically challenging.
 
Playing with all full range drivers, there had been no crossovers for me. Every time, even a single component in between the signal path from amp to driver, started robbing the midrange magic, where so much thought I give to the choice of amps, tubes for the magical midrange, so nothing should come in between, was my experience.

Adding a phase plug is very interesting thing to do just to widen the HF dispersion. The 12” FRD I have, has s very narrow HF dispersion so I may attempt one. 8” Alnico is great overall may be because it has a phase plug already.

I am yet to learn miniDSP tricks and it will be to tame and amplify the bass only.

All above for OB setup only....
i placed an order for Ahuja AS15-X200. By the time I get it, I will make the box ready.
Earlier you suggested a box with 20" width, 24" height, and 14" deep.
But that was for Iwai 12" will those dimensions nearly work for the 15" Ahuja??
Can you suggest please .....

Specs are here:
http://www.ahujaradios.co.in/speakers/professional-pa-speakers/as15-x200.html
 
I'm planning to get a good mic, and measuring gear. Then i will be able to share some graphs. Il check with low qts driver also.
 
I would be interested in knowing how low Qts driver performs in such a design. I would really like to try the JBL Le14A I have, in such a box some day soon if I am able to bring them home.......... They are regarded as one of the best woofers......

Other things being equal a driver gets low qts due to a stronger magnet (ie higher integration of BL) and vice versa. Qts increases if BL is reduced (not easy to do), or mass is added or Re is increased. A driver that has low qts, say 0.3 when equalised will sound the same as a driver of qts 0.7 without Eq in OB. OB is dictated by Xmax more than anything else.

Also, if we compare good drivers, we find that all good drivers perform same. The vintage ones are easily surpassed by newer models. Beyond a point there is no point in sticking to a particular driver. Good ones are very well engineered and are a commodity these days. The pro audio drivers need high performance and are made for that purpose.
 
Other things being equal a driver gets low qts due to a stronger magnet (ie higher integration of BL) and vice versa. Qts increases if BL is reduced (not easy to do), or mass is added or Re is increased. A driver that has low qts, say 0.3 when equalised will sound the same as a driver of qts 0.7 without Eq in OB. OB is dictated by Xmax more than anything else.

Also, if we compare good drivers, we find that all good drivers perform same. The vintage ones are easily surpassed by newer models. Beyond a point there is no point in sticking to a particular driver. Good ones are very well engineered and are a commodity these days. The pro audio drivers need high performance and are made for that purpose.
I see some FM s are die hard fans of vintage drivers. I just wonder if it's because they just love them ??? Or the new drivers won't perform or give that sound signature ???

With mass production, chances are there that quality build may be compromised,.... but advanced materials they are using now are lighter and stronger, and the audio technology itself is far more advanced, and latest drivers may surpass any old driver of the same league. My personal opinion....subject to correction.
 
Without equalization they have different low end response and by heavy equalization you are forcing one to produce more bass and lift up its low end response on the graph. Graph never always depicts the real room response and tonality. Equalizing two different drivers to have similar graph, does not amount to identical sound.
A qts 0.3 does not move that much as compared to 0.7. A high sensitivity driver does not need much power to reach a particular target excursion. Same is true for OB, by virtue of its alignment, it doesnt need much power since there is no air compliance to stop the cone. Also I dont suggest that one should use qts as low as 0.3, I took the value just to explain the point. Irrespective of qts, a target excursion is needed to produce a target SPL. A high qts driver gets that excursion without (or little) Eq, a low qts driver will need Eq to get there.

Else why would one take pains to look for high Qts driver for OB bass duty. It would be very simple to go for low Qts driver with low Fs as the choices suddenly become ample.
Ideal driver is, of course, a moderately high qts driver. Its easier to do OB with a high qts driver. There are more high qts drivers locally available than a low qts, especially the unbranded and OEM ones. No one wants to use Eq so they search for a high qts driver.
 
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For OB loading Qts greater than 0.7 is suggested. Low Qts performs well in TL or TQWT box loading. If you need to reduce Qts of driver you can add a parallel resistance twice the Re of the driver. Similarly you can increase Qts by adding a series resistance to the driver albiet at a lower sensitivity.
 
Graph never always depicts the real room response and tonality.
In the low end, the graph is a very good way of gauging the performance. A driver is not supposed to have its own tonality. A driver devoid of its own tonality is a good driver. All good drivers sound the same because of the absence of tonality. A driver is reproducer of music, not a musical instrument. Driver tonality is good for guitar speakers where they use tonality (ie harmonics/distortion) to produce specific sound, this distortion/tonality is part of the music. Once this sound is recorded, it must be played back as it is. Any addition of sound signature (or subtraction) by speaker is not accurate sound. Many speaker advertisements use tonality to confuse the buyer.
 
On a different note, If I love the midrange HF of a driver and can live with it for the rest of my life and it makes me look further to no other driver and even if it is the driver also that I am listening to, I don’t mind. Don’t tubes amps and different tubes do just that ?

Tubes are non linear devices, they are more pleasing to the ears, the reason is that they add lower order harmonics (distortion). Low order harmonics makes the sound warm/sweet. They are vintage, niche and expensive, have a glow so probably people like them even more. Question is: are they accurate? Are they not adding their own signature to sound? Shoud we do that to all music that we hear? Music was created by the creators to be heard without anything added or removed. Music reproduction is objective, music creation is subjective, it should stay the same, we must not get them mixed. A member 'wesayso' over diyaudio has nicely put in his signature on that forum and it reads "Use Science to design your speakers and they will sound like a piece of Art... "
 
A funny update on a different note people....

Just for a trail, i just connected one of my Ahuja speakers to my center channel.

It just trashed my existing center speaker as if a buldozer crushes a small car :p:p:p:p

The vocals are clear and crazily loud. The male voice is so damn dynamic !!!
I didn't had a long and critical listening session. So i can't comment on refinement.

But its a crazy experience to have a dynamic sounding center channel at a price of 2k :D:D
 
I was particularly dissatisfied with center channel. I always wanted male vocals, truck engine sounds, a lions roar etc to be very dynamic.

I used branded ones in the range of 15 to 25k. But still not satisfied. I literally came to a conclusion that I have to shell out more money, and buy a good center channel in the price range of 30 to 50k:rolleyes: But didn't had the budget to go ahead.

And this driver showed everything i was looking ..... @ 2k!!! I felt like laughing literally.

Whether ita Ahuja or some other driver.....now I'm pretty sure we can build a great center channel at a fraction of the price. Need to work on refinement though... It shouldn't sound shouty or harsh.
 
Many well thought and well spent (on drivers) designs either fail are not up to the expectations because of the choice of the drivers itself and we end up taming them with complicated crossovers and even box designs. Lots of money, time and effort goes into them.

I consider PA drivers usage in home audio as "out of the box" thinking. You will be surprised at what you hear @money and @wattage. And OB made my own life pretty simple, straightforward and very musical. I had no box building skills as well and spent whola lot of money earlier on building supplies.....
I think one year back.... our FM ANIKET told me for the first time that we can make great speakers with PA drivers, for home purpose.

At that time i had zero knowledge about ht though. I was in the league of sony, samsung, creative Htibs at that time. :D
 
At this time of your experience with the Ahuja full range driver, just imagine building a 5.2 or even 7.2 with them using Class A 10 watts amps.......
I'm already chalking plans for that :D:D:D

Center will be just OB, mounted in the middle of the wall. Behind the screen.
 
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