Cables Recommendation

I had a weird problem with bleached cotton nada (I'm assuming we purchased from the same shop). After several months of usage, I suspect the bleach reacted with the solder. For some reason it caused an open circuit (RCA centre pin to centre pin was open, and RCA barrel to barrel was also open). The wire/conductor used was ~24 AWG solid core silver, probably about 92.x% purity. The solder on the RCAs became very hard and I could no longer desolder it with a regular 25W soldering iron. It took a 60W iron, and that too with extended heating.
I don't know if it's the bleach but the nada has some weird powdery starchy stuff in it so what I do is always wash it well and dry it thoroughly before I use it. I've had interconnects made from washed nada that has lasted 8+ years. Still going strong.
 
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@keith_correa has ASR measured nadas? :p

I too have made Interconnects using various wires. Maybe someone can help me understand any wire not to use or avoid

1) 16 or 18 awg Speaker wires

20220308_183543_copy_900x1600.jpg

2) Ethernet cables
20220308_183524_copy_900x1600.jpg

3) Polycab wires - Don't have pictures for this.

I do have Canare L-2T2S with me which I will be making interconnects over the weekend.
 
@keith_correa has ASR measured nadas? :p

I too have made Interconnects using various wires. Maybe someone can help me understand any wire not to use or avoid

1) 16 or 18 awg Speaker wires

View attachment 67916

This will have high capacitance. Do you have a LCR meter with you. Also this will not be immune to AC hum / noise


Any reasons why you have used 2 pairs? Have you used one pair for + and another pair connected to shield? Or have you used one wire of each pair soldered to the middle lug and the one wire each of the other pair soldered to the ground lug?
 
This will have high capacitance. Do you have a LCR meter with you. Also this will not be immune to AC hum / noise

Thanks, I have stopped using it now. So I was right slight hum was was cause of this.

I do have a Multimeter like this, will it work? https://amzn.to/3ih5MvX

Any reasons why you have used 2 pairs? Have you used one pair for + and another pair connected to shield? Or have you used one wire of each pair soldered to the middle lug and the one wire each of the other pair soldered to the ground lug?

I have two pairs made from such Ethernet cable, one is with single wire and other is with 2 wires. Pictured one is with 2 wires, one pair to + and other pair to -.

Two paired ones are not soldered at all, fit snug and tight. Zero hums or noises super clean.
Single pair was slightly loose and soldered feel like it will fall apart.
 
Thanks, I have stopped using it now. So I was right slight hum was was cause of this.

I do have a Multimeter like this, will it work? https://amzn.to/3ih5MvX
This will not do. Cable capacitance will be in picofarad range. The lowest I see is 20 nF (nanofarad). But since you have this, try measuring it in the lowest range and see what value you get. But you can get this posted below. I have tested this against a calibrated LCR meter and it is decent enough

I have two pairs made from such Ethernet cable, one is with single wire and other is with 2 wires. Pictured one is with 2 wires, one pair to + and other pair to -.
Again this will not be immune to noise. It should be soldered otherwise. One wire of both the twisted pair goes to center lug and the remaining two wires goes to the ground lug. Best is to use just one pair
Two paired ones are not soldered at all, fit snug and tight. Zero hums or noises super clean.
Single pair was slightly loose and soldered feel like it will fall apart.
Yes that's a problem. The wire breaks easily. Just use one pair and use a glue gun to pour molten wax and it will be strong enough
 
Those look like Eichmann Bullets.
Yes. They give real low capacitance. IIRC it was just 2 pF for a single plug. I presume the low capacitance is because this plugs have just around 5mm long pins for the signal as well as the ground connection. There is no ground barrel surrounding the center pin like in the traditional RCA plugs. Effectively they have reduced the surface area of the metal plates of a capacitor. So this added just 4 pF for plugs added at both ends.

High end RCA plugs in fact give more capacitance becaue of the larger/longer size of the ground barrel and hence more surface area.
 
Wow. You have separated the strands and increased the distance between the conductors. This will give even lower capacitance.
That was the general idea behind the "naada" and the braiding.
Looks very good too. Any way you can measure the capacitance? Extremely curious to know.
I will when I get to it. Currently, it's connected and I want to let sleeping dogs lie. :)
Maybe I will hunt for some naada and try this weekend.
You should. It's extremely cheap to make, looks good and performs well. Nothing to not like. Don't forget the Teflon tape wrap; it makes the "naada" slippery, easy to braid and provides some stiffness to the floppy "naada". And since we majorly hear through our eyes, your ears will like it as well. :p
 
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I have some Soundfoundations Barracuda and Furutech FP-S032N power cables for sale. If anybody is interested can get in touch
 
I made some cables over the weekend for a friend of mine and documented on a video.
Got some super nice solder less RCA connectors, which are easy to use.

1) Belden 8477 speaker Cables

2) Canare L-2T2S RCA interconnects

3) RCA interconnects using Ethernet cables
 
I made some cables over the weekend for a friend of mine and documented on a video.
Got some super nice solder less RCA connectors, which are easy to use.

1) Belden 8477 speaker Cables

2) Canare L-2T2S RCA interconnects

3) RCA interconnects using Ethernet cables
An couple of issues with the those banana plugs used for the speaker cables are;
  • The case of the plug becomes "live" and could cause shorts if the two plugs (R & Blk) touch each other. I put a heat shrink sleeve on them to avoid any mishap.
  • This type of tip called 4 leaf type is not soldered on to the body of the plug or in one piece. Quite a few times I pulled out the banana plugs from speakers or amp the tip remained in the socket and separated from the plug. Since then removed the bananas and bare wire connections now. There are two other types that avoid this - one with pin tip with spring or the 9 leaf type. Pin tip is perhaps the best but not so easy to get at least for me.
 

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I made some cables over the weekend for a friend of mine and documented on a video.
Got some super nice solder less RCA connectors, which are easy to use.

1) Belden 8477 speaker Cables

2) Canare L-2T2S RCA interconnects

3) RCA interconnects using Ethernet cables
If you like making your own cables then try this combination, Van Damme cables and Neutrik connectors. It will beat many 200gbp worth cables
 
Inspired by this DIY i have tried threading the CAT5 wire through the cotton naada ( JUSST ISNT HAPPENING), no matter how i try the wire either comes out the naada midway...really clueless as to how Keith has woven this so well. Just Amazing how neat this looks.
You must be pushing the wire from the end of the "naada". While that works for the first couple of inches, it will not go in smoothly thereafter. What you should be doing is to coax the wire inside by holding the end of the wire that is inside the "naada" and scrunching the naada. It's easy and you also need to make a small loop at the wire tip. That will ensure that the pointy end is bent back so that the end is blunted and won't pierce the "naada" midway. Try it. It WILL work.
 
You must be pushing the wire from the end of the "naada". While that works for the first couple of inches, it will not go in smoothly thereafter. What you should be doing is to coax the wire inside by holding the end of the wire that is inside the "naada" and scrunching the naada. It's easy and you also need to make a small loop at the wire tip. That will ensure that the pointy end is bent back so that the end is blunted and won't pierce the "naada" midway. Try it. It WILL work.
Hats off Chief.....the depths you've gone to explain the method is simply commendable & I'm the kind who will not let that go to waste. Will get this done and dusted no matter how long it takes. Thank you for your time.cheers.
 
Hi FMs

Since my knowledge is limited to none about the cables, I need your opinion on picking up right cables for my system. I have an offer of brand new cables for around 11.5K net cost to me from overseas.

1. Wireworld Ultraviolet USB A – B 1m
2. Audioquest Red River XLR 1m

There are some sale threads as well on the forum Like Supra, Audioquest etc that I am exploring as well. I am very much open to buy used cables if they turn out to be better than the brand new ones in the same budget. I would be using Laptop as the source to feed in to an external dac and then connecting the dac to integrated amplifier. My budget is limited as of now 10- 15K max, I want to get started with reasonably priced cables for now.

What are your views about the mentioned cables? I am planning to have USB cable at least 2 meters in length and XLR pair around 1 meter in length.

My System
1. Luxman 590 AXII IA
2. Luxman DA-06 DAC
3. Klipsch Forte III

Many thanks.

Regards
Vivek
A two year old post that's still attracting replies - so here's mine. Well designed systems perhaps need the least expensive cables - for speaker cable, fat cable is good - 10 AWG OFC - end of story. For interconnects - characteristic impedance is the most important - pick Mogami patch cords (both RCA and XLR) and for digital cables, just pick up any "certified" cable. It's that simple. And now - let the flames erupt. And by the way - not all cables sound alike - Highly marketed cables might actually add new parameters to the mix(L/C/R), and might modify sound in a way that's pleasant, such as a slightly rolled off top end. Fat chance of doing very much to bass though. Ever wondered how any sound ever makes its way through PCBs and internal interconnects - which probably do not spend all that much money or attention on branded cables?
 
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