Collaborative two way bookshelf loudspeaker project

how much would be the difference between your stimulated crossover and and measured crossover.
If you can post Xover ,Parts can be sourced. Inductors are tough to source and will take time.

Behaviour at xo point can be different between the sims and measured response, I wouldn't recommend blindly going with the simulated values.

How much stuffing density does MJK's worksheet suggest?

I have opted for light stuffing with 50grams material per enclosure. A recron pillow should be sufficient for 4 enclosures.
 
I can provide the inductors for early birds. However, I need to have access to the enclosures to complete crossover.

Calling volunteers in Bangalore...
 
How much room gain have you taken in consideration ?
What gauge of copper wire are you using for inductors ?

AFAIK room gain can be between 3 to 8db within the audible range. Aprart from room gain the speaker's loading into half/quarter/eighth space will also play a beneficial role at low frequencies.

For low value inductors I usually use 19SWG wire.
 
AFAIK room gain can be between 3 to 8db within the audible range. Aprart from room gain the speaker's loading into half/quarter/eighth space will also play a beneficial role at low frequencies.

For low value inductors I usually use 19SWG wire.

M13KH has cone break up at around 1.8K, how do you intend to work it, What will be the crossover frequencies, And how did you decide them.
 
Thanks Antony. Will start enclosure very soon.
If you can post crossover. I can start procuring Components.

Cheers

Did you add resistance in Unibox . Any resistance in path of Driver will increase the System Q directly affecting the needed box volume and Fb. A speaker designed without taking resistance into consideration will sound different than intended due to above factors. You can squeeze some more hz's without making big difference to X max Limits.
What is Xmax for M13KH.

Does any one have actual measured M13kh on baffle or in Free Air.
 
Any resistance in path of Driver will increase the System Q directly affecting the needed box volume and Fb. A speaker designed without taking resistance into consideration will sound different than intended due to above factors. You can squeeze some more hz's without making big difference to X max Limits.

I quote from Curt Campbell who once posted about "series resistance":

Its always been my proclivity to add a value here to represent the electrical losses of the system. These can consist in part, of the amplifier output impedance, the resistance of the wire run, the effective resistance of any passive crossover components, and the increase in Re due to voice coil heating. Every situation is different; If the design is using active equalization, solid state amplification, and short wire runs, it will make little difference, adding perhaps a tenth of an ohm or three of resistive losses. However for a traditional passive crossover design with a remote amplifier, it will make a significant difference. Making several presumptions about the amplifier, passive filter, and voice coil, I generally add around 0.7 ohms for the grouped value. This of course raises the system Q and can cause ripple above the transfer function knee. Consequently a larger enclosure and / or lower tuning then may be required accomplish the desired response. Its my belief the addition of a lump value of electrical losses to the model better emulates the actual conditions, and will ultimately provide better damped bass response than if the ideal is assumed.
 
I generally put 1 ohm in my sims unless there are big inductors in the crossover.

I think the xmax could be in the range of 3mm.

Some where on other Diy forums I had read Sko130s Xmax to be 3.8mm, M13kH has similar surround and travel visibly, and we can add 15% to excursion while stimulating.
Check the Image.
 
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Whether cross-over is finalised? Pliz update

As indicated earlier, I need the enclosures before building the prototypes. Even though I have the simulated crossover schematic, I am not sure sharing that would be a good idea since I had the experience of tweaking (sometimes heavily) on the simulated values.

Nevertheless I would share the simulated values for the benefit of others if the volunteers in Bangalore are not in a position to pursue this project.
 
As indicated earlier, I need the enclosures before building the prototypes. Even though I have the simulated crossover schematic, I am not sure sharing that would be a good idea since I had the experience of tweaking (sometimes heavily) on the simulated values.

Nevertheless I would share the simulated values for the benefit of others if the volunteers in Bangalore are not in a position to pursue this project.

Kindly Do that so others can make some use of it, and in return share their builds and views
 
As indicated earlier, I need the enclosures before building the prototypes. Even though I have the simulated crossover schematic, I am not sure sharing that would be a good idea since I had the experience of tweaking (sometimes heavily) on the simulated values.

Nevertheless I would share the simulated values for the benefit of others if the volunteers in Bangalore are not in a position to pursue this project.

Thanks in advance for the information to be shared. Though I am not doing this build, I follow this thread and hoping to see a nice 2 way build.
 
Sorry to interrupt,

I am very novice in diy field but i want to build some speaker for my AVR(Back and Center) using peerless driver.

But i do not have much idea what driver would be right for BS and why?

Peerless - 25mm Fabric Dome Tweeter - SR10DT
(I have used it as replacement driver of some of sonodyne speaker)
or
Peerless - 25mm Silk DomeTweeter - TL25SN
(Some say silk tweeter is great)
or
Peerless - 26mm Silk Dome Tweeter - TL26SG
(Some say silk tweeter is great)
or
Peerless - Aluminum Dome Tweeter - TL25AN
:sos:(Some say Alumunium tweeter is great)

-----------------------------------------------------------------

Peerless - 5.25" High fidelity 8 Ohm woofer - SKO130
or

Peerless - 5.25" Coated Paper Cone Woofer - M13NH


##################################################

Also want to know what will be best crossover point for particular woofer tweeter pairing.

which order/type crossover best for the driver.

I think that will be helpful for many novice diy people here.

My Project Plan is:
1. Choose Right driver.
2. Build Crossover
3. Build Cabinet.

My AVR is Yamaha RX V371 US Model.(8 Ohms preferable).

Thanks in Advance.

Sorry again for interrupt in between conversion.
 
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