DCB1 Build

Wharfedale Super Denton 3-way Bookshelf Speaker
jls001 said:
Remote control is extremely cool.

I want one:)
Click to expand...

And you can have it too.
You need a cheap CD4017 IC, IN4148, 3 100nf capacitors and
2 resistors of 1M. Build the circuit on a cheap general purpose board.

src_sel_contrl.png


Connect the select input to a RF remote controlled relay.
4 ways RF remote is cheap -

4 WAY Luxury Wireless Remote Switch Learning With 1 2 Remotes | eBay

I made one a few years back, on general purpose boards - works great -

My RF controled PGA2320 MiniVol and ch selector - diyAudio
 
The layout shown was designed to fit on top of
the exiting source selector (piggyback).

3 pin regulator and capacitor are needed only on one of the boards.
The 2 pin power terminal on the left side of the boards must
be connected to each other.

Each pin of the 6 pin terminal block on cd4017 board has to be connected
to corresponding pin on the source selector board.

The next channel will be selected each time the "select" relay (or switch)
is pressed.
 
I have mentioned before, that I dont want to lose the functionality of remote control and input selector as well as LCD screen.

As Jls001 and Omishra suggested that i can incorporate DCB1 board with new
power supply and transformer, now there is one more challenge....

I want to make DCB1 with balanced connection. That means I need to have
two DCB1 circuits and two volume control for two channels.

output balanced connection can be achieved this way but what about input balanced connection? Please suggest how it can be incorporated..
 
No one..i am not inspired by mars expedition[emoji2] ..please suggest..
If output balanced is not possible..then only input balanced will do, as my DAC is having balanced output.
DCB1's output will be given to class -A (upcoming) amp, so output should not be necessarily balanced
 
The diyaudio build thread linked on the very post is about building a balanced version of the DCB1. However, even after going through the first 100+ pages, I have not seen anyone come up with a conclusively truly balanced topology. Also, for some reason, the balanced version of the B1 is not a straight transplant to the DCB1.

Why not use a balanced to unbalanced cable? Rane Notes has one recommended for bal-unbal. I use the same from the DCB1 to power amp (my power amp has only bal input), and it works very nicely.
 
Thanks..jls001..now i have dropped the idea of balanced input and output after reading what you have mentioned...is there some way to contact Mr nelson to get the gerber files directly [emoji2] if he has balanced version...
 
Last edited:
Why don't you ask our own Nelson who lives in your town? :)

Or the other Nelson from Nashik:)
 
omishra said:
I am sorry, but I am not worth of called shoe of Nelson Pass. It's knowledge he holds.
Click to expand...

I beg to disagree.... we all know about your knowledge. At least the part shared with us on the forum. The shoes comment........ TOTALLY disagree.

Lifewater
 
spirovious said:
Please do not say that,we Indian can take over any time like we did with Mangalyaan.:)
Click to expand...

No offense! That's not emotional statement, but have interacted with him. I would like to stay away from bragging and self appraisal;). He is like iceberg. More in depth, big fellow. I respect is knowledge and depth, still being humble to everyone. That's quality narrow minded people could miss and get carried away with shallow knowledge. I am still learning how to think about any design from basic parts. One day I would become like grey haired man.:)
So look at him as mentor.
 
A quick question to the experts. I got the DCB1 from Sachin and confused regarding the power connections. My existing box has the 0.24v from the PSU to the B1 power socket and from the same B1 power socket another set of +/- cables are connected to the source selector. Now if I need to replace the B1 with DCB1 how do I make these connections. Should I use the same way as B1 for DCB1 or do i need to make any different. Also another problem is that if I can go with the same connections as B1 then there may not be much room for pair of cables for power on the DCB1 PCB. On the B1 a socket has been used to handle these 2 pairs of power cables. Please suggest as I am a novice in these things :eek:.

I am going to speak to Sachin tomorrow but still putting the question on the thread.

Thanks
 
You will need to use -15/0/15 tab of power supply. This is the same tab which feeds power to CNC. You will need to set the voltage manually using DMM.
Kindly check the DC at dcb1 output without connecting any input. It should be below 5mv

Regards
Sachin
 
The DCB1 needs -10V/0/+10V DC supply. If you're using the OPS, you can adjust the -15V/0/+15V DC part of the supply to plus/minus 10V by using the blue Bourns pots. That's what I did.
 
omishra said:
No offense! That's not emotional statement, but have interacted with him. I would like to stay away from bragging and self appraisal;). He is like iceberg. More in depth, big fellow. I respect is knowledge and depth, still being humble to everyone. That's quality narrow minded people could miss and get carried away with shallow knowledge. I am still learning how to think about any design from basic parts. One day I would become like grey haired man.:)
So look at him as mentor.
Click to expand...

Om,

I like your attitude on this point. Inspite of praise by fellow HFVians, you did not get carried away.

It is not the knowledge that one needs to compare to Mr. Pass, it is the body of work and contribution he has made over multiple decades to the society at large and DIY community in particular that needs to be looked at. Above all his humility and good nature, inspite of his immense commercial success, is what makes him a legend.

God bless Mr. Pass and you as well for your constant support to the DIY community on HFV and probably beyond.

Cheers.
 
manniraj said:
A quick question to the experts. I got the DCB1 from Sachin and confused regarding the power connections. My existing box has the 0.24v from the PSU to the B1 power socket and from the same B1 power socket another set of +/- cables are connected to the source selector. Now if I need to replace the B1 with DCB1 how do I make these connections. Should I use the same way as B1 for DCB1 or do i need to make any different. Also another problem is that if I can go with the same connections as B1 then there may not be much room for pair of cables for power on the DCB1 PCB. On the B1 a socket has been used to handle these 2 pairs of power cables. Please suggest as I am a novice in these things :eek:.



I am going to speak to Sachin tomorrow but still putting the question on the thread.



Thanks
Click to expand...


Just remove existing B1 from 24-0 power line. Reduce its voltage to 15V by adjusting that blue trimmer in its line of power supply PCB. Then connect that line to source selector as if it's now.

As other FMs suggested, take output of 15/0/-15 reduced to 10v each and connect to DCB1. It has marking PS-POS-IN, PS-NEG-IN and PS-GND for +10V, -10 and 0 respectively.

After DCB1 power connection restored, just shift input, output and Pot connections to DCB1. Measure output offset, it should sing. Pay attention polarity of caps and matched pair of Jfets for each channel.
 
Last edited:
manniraj said:
One query Om, as you said its best to change the resistances for the 22-0-22 R-Core transformers, I am currently running it with the stock and it plays fine. But any harm if I continue to run other than running hot.
Click to expand...
That regulators may go to thermal shutdown or reduced life. Also Hi temperature has raised noise - figure beyond recognition of ears but measurable on scope. :)

LM317/337 can deliver 1.5A with proper dissipation of heat. But here we can kill it within 20mA (.02A) only. Reducing gap between input and output voltage is the key with small piece of Aluminum L shape attached to it. Look like cobra shape staring at front.
 
Last edited:
ok.. thanks for clarification...

while the resistors are procured i could dig couple of TO-220 heat sinks and attached to the two LM317s .. I have observed LM337 also getting hot.. does it also require a heat sink or R3 also require change? In my setup, my SSP requires 10V (OPAmp LM49990 based) and source selector 15V. So i am powering dcb1 and ssp from 10-0-10 output and Source selector 0-15v.

Kindly validate and advise..
 
BIG SALE: Marantz PM7000N Stereo Amplifier with Network Streaming and DAC
The Marantz PM7000N offers big, spacious and insightful sound, class-leading clarity and a solid streaming platform in a award winning package.

Similar threads

thinksinc
New digital movie poster DIY guide & library
Replies
2
Views
518
donmathew90
D
mbhangui
My El-Cheapo Mobile Headphone listening station
Replies
1
Views
3K
availlyrics
A
M
Vintage pioneer stack hi-fi tape player
Replies
0
Views
3K
Mummy Ali
M
S
Repair of dome tweeter
Replies
0
Views
473
surfatwork
S
A
DIY Audiophile Power Cable
Replies
10
Views
680
surfatwork
S
Back
Top