Lifespan of Capacitors

Kumar101

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I have Linn Klout Power Amp which I bought second hand around 10 years ago. Amp itself is probably 12-14 years old. At the moment it's working perfect however I'm worried that due to the age of Amp the Electrolytic Capacitors might start to leak and degrade.

So my question is basically is: What is the lifespan of these type of Capacitors?
 
Just chill. Listen to some good music through the amp and let the anxiety fade away!
I'm not being paranoid! I listen and enjoy my system every single day and have doing so from the time I was 16 years old which was almost 50 years ago.

However, foresight is essential if you want to have stability in life. This Amp is old school - pure analog. I worked as electronics technician in my youth so I can easily fix it if it ever went wrong. I was planning on upgrading the Caps sometime anyway with modern better sounding ones hence knowing the life expectancy is important on when to do it.

Anyway I asked a technical question wasnt expecting this kind if condescending reply from you.
 
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So my question is basically is: What is the lifespan of these type of Capacitors?
Kindly search for capacitor differences on audiosciencereview forum. Lots of measurements were made from vintage 35 year old capacitors to modern highend capacitor. Negligible difference (0.1 to 0.3 dB) were found. This change will be overshadowed by room and other influences. Humans can hear 2 to3 dB difference only. Almost to be concluded that the change does not make difference.
Personally i would not ruin the original company parts and alter pcbs by desoldering and soldering

But...

People claim to hear changes by modifications. And it becomes personal choice. If one enjoys doing such things. They should. Its mostly subjective hobby afterall.

Regds.
 
Most electrolytic capacitors are rated for around 2,000-5,000 hours, which typically translates to 10–20 years of lifespan, depending on factors like temperature, environmental conditions, and voltage fluctuations. Because of this, I always recommend recapping amplifiers after 10 years if they are used regularly, and definitely by 15 years, regardless of usage.

It’s also wise to have your amplifier periodically[one a year] inspected and cleaned by a qualified technician — something many people tend to overlook. Regular maintenance helps minimize dust buildup and can often identify potential issues before they become serious problems.

coming to the point DOES IT MAKES A DIFFERENCE !!!

Mostly it does IF the caps used in most old amps are replaced by better built caps.
 
Kindly search for capacitor differences on audiosciencereview forum. Lots of measurements were made from vintage 35 year old capacitors to modern highend capacitor. Negligible difference (0.1 to 0.3 dB) were found. This change will be overshadowed by room and other influences. Humans can hear 2 to3 dB difference only. Almost to be concluded that the change does not make difference.
Personally i would not ruin the original company parts and alter pcbs by desoldering and soldering

But...

People claim to hear changes by modifications. And it becomes personal choice. If one enjoys doing such things. They should. Its mostly subjective hobby afterall.

Regds.
yup his measurements are about using high end caps replacing regular ones,not about 20 year caps vs new ones. I have recapped old Krell's Bryston's Sansui's etc to be sure to comment on this. I would like to say even recapping to a better series of a cap or brand is also recommended IF the system chain is good enough to reveal that details.
 
It all depends upon capacitor manufacturer brand, type, exposure to heat, ripple frequency, etc.
Links to the badcaps manufacturers sites :

Arcon ??
Canicon - http://www.canicon.com.tw/
Capxon - http://www.capxon.com.tw/
Chhsi - http://www.chhsi.com.tw (inactive site)
Choyo
CTC
DST
Fuh Yin - http://www.fuhyin.com.tw/
Fuhjyyu - http://www.fuhjyyu.com.tw/
Fujitsu (FPCAP) - http://edevice.fujitsu.com/fmd/en/products/fpcap/ (mixed results. can fail or be ok)
Gloria - http://www.gloria-cap.com.tw/ (inactive site)
G-Luxon - http://group.luxon.com.tw/
GL ??
Gsc - http://www.gsc-cap.com.tw/
Hec
Hermei - http://www.hermei.com.tw
I.Q.
Jackcon - http://www.jackcon.com.tw/
JDEC
Jee
Jpcon - http://www.jpcon.com/
Jun Fu - http://www.jun-fu.com/
Lelon - http://www.lelon.com.tw/
Licon
Nkcon
Nrsy - These are phony Nippon caps so no site.
Ost - http://www.ost.com.tw
Partsnic - http://www.partsnic.com/
Pce-tur
Raycon
Rubysun (Shenzen Eagle New Technology Electrical Industry Co. Ltd.) - now a pornsite-removed
Rulycon - These are phony Rubycon caps so no site.
Skywell - http://www.skywellnet.com/
Stone - http://www.ystone.com.tw/ (not sure if this is the right one)
Supacon
Su'scon - http://www.su-scon.com.tw/
Taicon - http://www.taicon.com.tw/ (2 reports of fails only but not very commmon to see these caps on motherboards)
Tayeh
Teapo - http://www.teapo.com.tw/
Tocon - http://www.tocon.com.tw/
Wendell - http://www.wendell.com.tw/
Yec - http://www.yec.com.tw
Source- badcaps.net
 
It all depends upon capacitor manufacturer brand, type, exposure to heat, ripple frequency, etc.
Links to the badcaps manufacturers sites :

Arcon ??
Canicon - http://www.canicon.com.tw/
Capxon - http://www.capxon.com.tw/
Chhsi - http://www.chhsi.com.tw (inactive site)
Choyo
CTC
DST
Fuh Yin - http://www.fuhyin.com.tw/
Fuhjyyu - http://www.fuhjyyu.com.tw/
Fujitsu (FPCAP) - http://edevice.fujitsu.com/fmd/en/products/fpcap/ (mixed results. can fail or be ok)
Gloria - http://www.gloria-cap.com.tw/ (inactive site)
G-Luxon - http://group.luxon.com.tw/
GL ??
Gsc - http://www.gsc-cap.com.tw/
Hec
Hermei - http://www.hermei.com.tw
I.Q.
Jackcon - http://www.jackcon.com.tw/
JDEC
Jee
Jpcon - http://www.jpcon.com/
Jun Fu - http://www.jun-fu.com/
Lelon - http://www.lelon.com.tw/
Licon
Nkcon
Nrsy - These are phony Nippon caps so no site.
Ost - http://www.ost.com.tw
Partsnic - http://www.partsnic.com/
Pce-tur
Raycon
Rubysun (Shenzen Eagle New Technology Electrical Industry Co. Ltd.) - now a pornsite-removed
Rulycon - These are phony Rubycon caps so no site.
Skywell - http://www.skywellnet.com/
Stone - http://www.ystone.com.tw/ (not sure if this is the right one)
Supacon
Su'scon - http://www.su-scon.com.tw/
Taicon - http://www.taicon.com.tw/ (2 reports of fails only but not very commmon to see these caps on motherboards)
Tayeh
Teapo - http://www.teapo.com.tw/
Tocon - http://www.tocon.com.tw/
Wendell - http://www.wendell.com.tw/
Yec - http://www.yec.com.tw
Source- badcaps.net
samyoung, sanwha, jwco vent etc are commonly found bad brands, used by many technicians.
fake elna , nichicons and rubycons are another story
 
This company in the UK sells a bespoke kit for my Amp - valhalla

This is what they supply:

"All capacitors are made by the highly reputable Supertech/Panasonic and are 105 degree C versions to ensure long life of the upgrade kit. Supertech capacitors are now used in many high-end audio applications"

I can get someone to bring these over. Seems like a safe bet?

EDIT:

"All replacement capacitors are of correct size to fit boards apart from the reservoir capacitors. The original Linn capacitors are 4 pin mounting (difficult to obtain) and these are two pin mounting so a new hole will be needed to be drilled for each reservoir and a bridging link installed"

Drilling holes is too scary, I cannot do . So change of plan - will take it back to England next year and ask this Valhalla company and another Linn specialist called Kresendo for a quote.

I'd like to thank everyone for their valuable insight.
 
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I have Linn Klout Power Amp which I bought second hand around 10 years ago. Amp itself is probably 12-14 years old. At the moment it's working perfect however I'm worried that due to the age of Amp the Electrolytic Capacitors might start to leak and degrade.

So my question is basically is: What is the lifespan of these type of Capacitors?
The hour rating of electrolytic capacitors assumes that the cap is being operated in a worst-case scenario.
This means that it’s always being operated at the specified temperature and maximum ripple. Those conditions are not typical.

For example, many caps are rated at 85° C, which is 185° F here in the US. The caps in your amp are probably not being subjected to anything close to that. Some caps are rated at 105° C (221° F) or even a bit higher. That would probably burn your finger if you touched it.

A old post on another forum quotes Panasonic’s website which says “In general, the capacitor life is approximately doubled when the temperature decreases by 10° C.” The post gives the following example: “A cap that’s rated for 3000 hours at 105° C would be rated for about 144,000 hours when operating at 45° C (113° F).” It’s entirely possible that the caps in your amp are even cooler than that under normal conditions.

I’ve restored a lot of vintage tube gear which is mostly from the 1960s.

I used to always install new electrolytic caps until I got a cap checker and an ESR meter. I'll typically bring the voltage on a piece up very gradually with a variac - sometimes over a period of 18 hours and then, the next day, start over and do it again. This is because I don't always know when the unit was last powered up. Then I use a cap checker to check to see if the value is in spec and to check for electrical leakage at the full rated voltage of the cap, again for several hours. Rated voltage is always higher than actual operating voltage in the amp and often significantly higher. The only time I've ever seen a cap that is physically leaking is when a previous "tech" has installed a cap whose voltage rating is too low.

Then I check ESR. For years I used a cheap ESR meter and I was never sure if its readings were really accurate. So, instead of relying on the readings themselves, I always compared them to a new cap - usually whatever cap I would use as a replacement. If there was no significant difference, I figured the old cap was still usable. Surprisingly, I've actually come across some old caps whose ESR readings were better than a new cap.

The only vintage caps I just automatically replace now are original cathode bypass caps. When I used to test them I found that they were almost always out of spec. So now I just replace them without bothering to test them.

Note that these are all amps I own. And my experience is only with tube amps. But from what I’ve seen when caps degrade it’s a slow process which eventually results in hum. Perhaps I’ve just been lucky, but I’ve never had a cap suddenly or catastrophically fail. I have only had a couple of 60 year old amps and radios that had power supply hum after being powered up slowly.

You should certainly approach this in whatever way makes you most comfortable. But IMO hauling an amp to another country for service seems a bit extreme - especially if it’s operating normally.

If you’re capable of working on the amp you might want to find a cap checker that can test at full rated voltages and an ESR meter and test them yourself. But I suspect that you’ll notice an audible difference if any of them start going bad.

All my tube amps are wired point to point so I don’t have any issues with matching caps to a circuit board. If you can’t find modern caps that fit you might be able to mount them on a separate piece of perfboard if there’s enough room inside your amp. Then wire them to the existing board.
 
The hour rating of electrolytic capacitors assumes that the cap is being operated in a worst-case scenario.
This means that it’s always being operated at the specified temperature and maximum ripple. Those conditions are not typical.

For example, many caps are rated at 85° C, which is 185° F here in the US. The caps in your amp are probably not being subjected to anything close to that. Some caps are rated at 105° C (221° F) or even a bit higher. That would probably burn your finger if you touched it.

A old post on another forum quotes Panasonic’s website which says “In general, the capacitor life is approximately doubled when the temperature decreases by 10° C.” The post gives the following example: “A cap that’s rated for 3000 hours at 105° C would be rated for about 144,000 hours when operating at 45° C (113° F).” It’s entirely possible that the caps in your amp are even cooler than that under normal conditions.

I’ve restored a lot of vintage tube gear which is mostly from the 1960s.

I used to always install new electrolytic caps until I got a cap checker and an ESR meter. I'll typically bring the voltage on a piece up very gradually with a variac - sometimes over a period of 18 hours and then, the next day, start over and do it again. This is because I don't always know when the unit was last powered up. Then I use a cap checker to check to see if the value is in spec and to check for electrical leakage at the full rated voltage of the cap, again for several hours. Rated voltage is always higher than actual operating voltage in the amp and often significantly higher. The only time I've ever seen a cap that is physically leaking is when a previous "tech" has installed a cap whose voltage rating is too low.

Then I check ESR. For years I used a cheap ESR meter and I was never sure if its readings were really accurate. So, instead of relying on the readings themselves, I always compared them to a new cap - usually whatever cap I would use as a replacement. If there was no significant difference, I figured the old cap was still usable. Surprisingly, I've actually come across some old caps whose ESR readings were better than a new cap.

The only vintage caps I just automatically replace now are original cathode bypass caps. When I used to test them I found that they were almost always out of spec. So now I just replace them without bothering to test them.

Note that these are all amps I own. And my experience is only with tube amps. But from what I’ve seen when caps degrade it’s a slow process which eventually results in hum. Perhaps I’ve just been lucky, but I’ve never had a cap suddenly or catastrophically fail. I have only had a couple of 60 year old amps and radios that had power supply hum after being powered up slowly.

You should certainly approach this in whatever way makes you most comfortable. But IMO hauling an amp to another country for service seems a bit extreme - especially if it’s operating normally.

If you’re capable of working on the amp you might want to find a cap checker that can test at full rated voltages and an ESR meter and test them yourself. But I suspect that you’ll notice an audible difference if any of them start going bad.

All my tube amps are wired point to point so I don’t have any issues with matching caps to a circuit board. If you can’t find modern caps that fit you might be able to mount them on a separate piece of perfboard if there’s enough room inside your amp. Then wire them to the existing board.
WOW! simply blown away with your knowledge and insight, plus having hands on experience of doing these type of things. Many thanks for posting 👍
 
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