My first DIY Subwoofer using Dayton Audio SD270A-88 10''

Jeanpher

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Hello All,

I am planning to build a subwoofer with DA SD270A-88 10''. I have simulated the box with WINISD pro. It gives good frequency response in large box. I dont have that much room for it. I am expecting it to be under 2 cubic foot with tuning frequency under 30hz. Could someone help me with vented box enclosure size.

Thanks and Regards
Jeanpher
 
Hello All,

I am planning to build a subwoofer with DA SD270A-88 10''. I have simulated the box with WINISD pro. It gives good frequency response in large box. I dont have that much room for it. I am expecting it to be under 2 cubic foot with tuning frequency under 30hz. Could someone help me with vented box enclosure size.

Thanks and Regards
Jeanpher
Did you buy the driver?
 
Hello All,

I have run the driver parameters and calculated enclosure properties. I have attached the file please go through it and tell me if I am missing something. Thanks in advance for your valuable inputs.

Regards
Jean
 

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Hello All,

I am planning to build a subwoofer with DA SD270A-88 10''. I have simulated the box with WINISD pro. It gives good frequency response in large box. I dont have that much room for it. I am expecting it to be under 2 cubic foot with tuning frequency under 30hz. Could someone help me with vented box enclosure size.

Thanks and Regards
Jeanpher
Hey Jean,
After a long time, eh? Good luck on your build.

Cheers,
Raghu
 
For similar price there are better ways of building a sub. Take, 12" (or 10") JBL car drivers, 2 of them. Put them on opposite side of the enclosure about 1.5 cu ft. Either port it or PR it.
To measure the tuning frequency of port or PR, take a sound card, say Behringer 222, and see the impedance curve.
You can take 2 of 12" passive radiators (or make them) and put on the remaining 2 sides of the box. Take a decent 400 watts + amp, pro grade would be better.
This sub has greatest bang for the buck. Everything available locally.
It has larger surface area, greater excursion capability, greater heat dissipation ability, better dynamics and lower distortion, quite small box for the performance.
 
Are car sub drivers suitable for home theater purpose? Wouldnt they be boomy

They can be. The cheaper ones tend to have high Qts which can cause one note bass if not tuned properly. But may car subs are very tight (alpine R series come to mind), but optimised to car cabin gain.

At the budget end the infinity 1242 was reputed to do very well in a moderate enclousure. there was a lot buzz about it on diyaudio a few years back. I personally had a pair of JBL GT-5 which could dig really low in 60 litres.

but coming to OP, thats a really big box for 10". you do have the option of a smaller, box and a lower tuning frequency, so that will be a sloping response (which could be compensated by corner loading)but at least your driver wont unload (bad!) in most cases. of course as you tune lower, vent volume plays a role so at some point you end up with vent dominating the box build. Your best bet would be to use a Passive radiator.

Best wishes
 
Are car sub drivers suitable for home theater purpose? Wouldnt they be boomy
Reputed ones like JBL/Pioneer have Qts lesser than 0.5 (my pioneer has 0.35 as measured), they even have low Vas and moderate Fs (Mms). All good things. I dont really understand the real need to use other hard to find ones.
Boomy/Tight is not about driver, its about setup. An excellent sub may sound boomy or tight depending on setup.
 
For similar price there are better ways of building a sub. Take, 12" (or 10") JBL car drivers, 2 of them. Put them on opposite side of the enclosure about 1.5 cu ft. Either port it or PR it.
To measure the tuning frequency of port or PR, take a sound card, say Behringer 222, and see the impedance curve.
You can take 2 of 12" passive radiators (or make them) and put on the remaining 2 sides of the box. Take a decent 400 watts + amp, pro grade would be better.
This sub has greatest bang for the buck. Everything available locally.
It has larger surface area, greater excursion capability, greater heat dissipation ability, better dynamics and lower distortion, quite small box for the performance.
My be my next project, I am in half way in this build, thank you for your valuable input, will contact you when I do that.
 
Reputed ones like JBL/Pioneer have Qts lesser than 0.5 (my pioneer has 0.35 as measured), they even have low Vas and moderate Fs (Mms). All good things. I dont really understand the real need to use other hard to find ones.
Boomy/Tight is not about driver, its about setup. An excellent sub may sound boomy or tight depending on setup.
Me too thought car subs wont be suitable for home use, but I believe you have more experience on it, I will take a look at it later
 
After a long time some update on my subwoofer build, I have made the enclosure with 0.75' inch plywood and double layer baffle combination of pLywood and MDF. It is roughly 3.2 cubic ft, added a bracing in the middle.
 

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Actually I was engaged in another build which is a 2.1 setup using MarkAudio CHR-70 and Tang Band W6-1139SIF 6-1/2" with Dayton Audio - MCA2250E - 2x22W + 50W 2.1 Channel Class D Plate Amplifier. It came out very impressive and I am so happy with my first build. If I get time I will do the writeup in another thread.
 
I have lined the subwoofer enclosure walls with coconut fibre (from old worn out matress), had to check it does its purpose.
For port I have planned to use 3.5 inch OD pvc pipe and ID is around 3.25 inch which is around the same as simulated, length is about 9 inch, one side flared.
 
Now I am in the most challenging part of the whole build, amplifier. I was looking to buy a plate amplifier which is under 100 watts, but couldn't find one. So I have bought a TD7294 based mono amp module , a rectifier board, low pass filter board and a speaker protection board. and a matching transformer from Like HD transformer.

I have put it all together and checked for few minutes. I didn't find the result quite pleasing, it was not like the first build.

Can you experts help me in some regard on the amplifier part, all suggestions are welcome?
 

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A beautiful, well-constructed speaker with class-leading soundstage, imaging and bass that is fast, deep, and precise.
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