kapvin
Well-Known Member
Sorry for cross posting. Since Kapvin mentioned about the speaker modification, I am responding to that.
If that sounds funny to you, you are welcome to laugh, because laughing is good for your healthIt also made me happy when it sounded just the way I wanted.
Now on a serious note
I dont recommend this modification to anyone on other speakers. It can damage your tweeter.
As you know, 9.6 have 4 drivers. We are discussing about tweeter and so called mid range. If you open cover and examine the mid range speaker its just like a big tweeter. It doesnt have any holes behind the cone. It is totally cover just like the tweeter. It might be able to handle more power than the actual tweeter. Thats when I decided to interchange the wires, which actually worked. After that I started if with different volume levels. At this point I was ready to buy a new tweeter if it burns out. I exactly knew the risk I am taking. I liked the sound which was coming form both the mid range as well as the tweeter. That is the only motivating factor to test it at higher volumes. Till now nothing happened. Actually before putting it up for sale, I have researched how to reduce the volume of a tweeter. And I know that I have to use two resisters one in parallel and other one in series. The values of the resisters depend on your speaker resistance and the amount of volume (db) you want to reduce. I will be doing the actual modification using the resistance mostly by this week end. I didnt get time to visit the electronics shop since I was busy working.
Sudhish.
Thanks for the clarification. would have been useful if you mentioned this in your thread.
At the risk of continuing OT: since you are new at DIY and have chosen to clarify, i'll suggest you read a lot more before attempting these modifications, unless you literally have money to burn.
the problem is not the midrange being fed the tweeter signal, which it can easily handle (if not reproduce at the right level), but the tweeter handling the midrange signal, which it is not equipped to do, both electrically and mechanically. Chances are high of a burnout, and/or of suspension failure.
Additionally, acoustically, you'll probably have a "hole" in your midrange response as the tweeter is not really likely to reproduce the 1k-3k spectrum very well. Your mid is likely to be able to play at least upto 10k or above, but you'll have "beaming" above 8k. Of course, you may find the sound pleasing, because less notes are reproduced the sound is less complex.. and fair enough (there are many people who keep their equalisers in a "v" configuration and like the sound).. but be aware that it's not accurate.
On the issue of introducing a resistor into your crossover network, again, read up about it, because while a resistor in series (or paralell) does reduce the electrical signal going into the tweeter, it also changes the impedance, which in turn, affects the crossover frequency. As a rule of thumb, in a first order network (6dB per octave), doubling effective impedance, drops the crossover frequency by 1 octave. This, while reducing your treble, will also introduce a whole lot of midrange signal into your tweeter.
lastly, from the feedback you've given and the likely sound from your "tweak", it is not the treble (or tweeter signal) that you have a problem with, it's the midrange.. suggest you let tweeter be for a bit (if it's still alive) and focus on tweaking the midrange (Also a little safer to do)
of course you are aware that now your speaker has no waranty, since you have tampered with it and also "publicised" that fact
