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speaker stands

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tulsri

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Can any one help me to find out good place in chennai where i can locate suitable speaker stands.

I also need help in audio wiring at chennai
 

venkatcr

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Can any one help me to find out good place in chennai where i can locate suitable speaker stands. I also need help in audio wiring at chennai

Getting speaker stands is a little difficult. But please contact some of the retailers in Chennai. I am sure one would help you.

What help do you need with 'audio wiring'? Maybe I can help.

Cheers
 

tulsri

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Getting speaker stands is a little difficult. But please contact some of the retailers in Chennai. I am sure one would help you.

What help do you need with 'audio wiring'? Maybe I can help.

Cheers

Thanks for your response, i have denon 1603 with jamo speakers used abroad yet to be connected here in chennai, the clusters of wire behind the amp makes me feel that i should call a pro and set the entire things up.

suggest me if any shop provides such help..
thanks
sree
 

keith_correa

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anm is right. Ask your carpenter to build one with directions as mentioned on the TNT website. It's cheaper and will be better than the overpriced stands available. Of course if you want to spend then go the "buy" route.
If you are constructing your own based on the TNT recipe then I would make one change - substitute the wooden base with a slab of granite or marble. Can be easily done - I did it and it sounds great since it's more rigid.
 

dinyaar

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Hi
Go to standanddeliver.com and take print outs of the stands that appeal to u. Go to a fabricator in chennai and get one made in SS or MS or a combination. Its very easy and u will have a stable/functional stand for under 5K.
Rgds
 

anm

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Keith - did you replace both top and bottom ones?
What did you do to hold the speakers in place - are they dancing around when playing loud?
 

venkatcr

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Thanks for your response, i have denon 1603 with jamo speakers used abroad yet to be connected here in chennai, the clusters of wire behind the amp makes me feel that i should call a pro and set the entire things up.

Send me you address and phone number. PM me if needed.

Maybe I can come across one day and connect everything for you.

Cheers
 

tulsri

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very nice of you, will keep you updated on making the furniture part ready.
I am new to this forum, really overwhelmed by the support of members.
sree
 

keith_correa

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Keith - did you replace both top and bottom ones?
What did you do to hold the speakers in place - are they dancing around when playing loud?

anm:
I just replaced the bottom base with a granite slab. The top one remains wood - and since there is so much rigidity and no vibes are transmitted upwards, there is no speaker jive but to hold the speakers in place I have attached rubber feet. I'm a great believer of isolation hence the rubber. I did one more thing - instead of spikes for the stands, I had a 2" skirting along the base and I put in 5 rubber balls [4 at each edge and one in the middle]. The rubber balls are the ultra soft ones - you know the ones that are used as stress relievers. These days these balls are available with a big smiley across them and are yellow in color. The balls are squished due to the weight but they do the job perfectly. They make for great isolators - I kid you not! :)
 

keith_correa

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Hi
Go to standanddeliver.com and take print outs of the stands that appeal to u. Go to a fabricator in chennai and get one made in SS or MS or a combination. Its very easy and u will have a stable/functional stand for under 5K.
Rgds

Dinyaar, I disagree - the primary dual purposes of a stand are isolation and rigidity. Just copying from a picture would not serve both purposes UNLESS built with these purposes in mind. And I doubt a fabricator would achieve these when building a stand. At best the fabricator would build a "stand" and we all know a "stand" is not just for the speakers to "stand" on. Wouldn't you agree?
 

anm

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post some pics pls
anm:
I just replaced the bottom base with a granite slab. The top one remains wood - and since there is so much rigidity and no vibes are transmitted upwards, there is no speaker jive but to hold the speakers in place I have attached rubber feet. I'm a great believer of isolation hence the rubber. I did one more thing - instead of spikes for the stands, I had a 2" skirting along the base and I put in 5 rubber balls [4 at each edge and one in the middle]. The rubber balls are the ultra soft ones - you know the ones that are used as stress relievers. These days these balls are available with a big smiley across them and are yellow in color. The balls are squished due to the weight but they do the job perfectly. They make for great isolators - I kid you not! :)
 

dinyaar

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Dinyaar, I disagree - the primary dual purposes of a stand are isolation and rigidity. Just copying from a picture would not serve both purposes UNLESS built with these purposes in mind. And I doubt a fabricator would achieve these when building a stand. At best the fabricator would build a "stand" and we all know a "stand" is not just for the speakers to "stand" on. Wouldn't you agree?

Hi Keith,
Rigidity is achieved by using thick gauge SS as the hollow cylinder and MS for the base plate and top. Isolation is achieved by using spikes at the base to minimise contact, rubber studs are affixed on the top plate for further isolation if not provided with the speaker. The hollow tube can be filled with sand/lead for added weight/damping.
This does make a very decent base for a speaker to perform to potential.
Have assembled stands from B&W,Dyna,Imperial,Atacama etc for myself and friends and have seen the stands closely and though better aesthetically(4/5X the price) they do not sound better. Have read 'reviews' of stands where the reviewer has used words that are more apt for speakers and i dont buy that.
Each to his own in most things audio but i stick to my above post that a superb,stable,rigid,inert base can be made for 5/7 K that more than achieves the purpose.In my opinion if u remove the skirting u referred to and just put metal spikes u achieve more isolation by reducing the contact area.
Rgds
 
Last edited:

keith_correa

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Hi Keith,
Rigidity is achieved by using thick gauge SS as the hollow cylinder and MS for the base plate and top. Isolation is achieved by using spikes at the base to minimise contact, rubber studs are affixed on the top plate for further isolation if not provided with the speaker. The hollow tube can be filled with sand/lead for added weight/damping.
This does make a very decent base for a speaker to perform to potential.
Have assembled stands from B&W,Dyna,Imperial,Atacama etc for myself and friends and have seen the stands closely and though better aesthetically(4/5X the price) they do not sound better. Have read 'reviews' of stands where the reviewer has used words that are more apt for speakers and i dont buy that.
Each to his own in most things audio but i stick to my above post that a superb,stable,rigid,inert base can be made for 5/7 K that more than achieves the purpose.In my opinion if u remove the skirting u referred to and just put metal spikes u achieve more isolation by reducing the contact area.
Rgds

Hey Dinyaar:
Completely [well almost!] agree with your views on rigidity/isolation. However, I think you missed the point. My original response to you was not about rigidity/isolation per se but was about a fabricator "copying" a stand from a picture. My point was that a fabricator would not achieve rigidity/isolation - there's more that goes into building a "decent" stand, wouldn't you say?
Am with you when you say say that 5/7K would be more than sufficient to build a decent pair of stands. And I did try the spike approach. Besides screwing up my floor [I have a hyperactive 5 year old which does not help any :)] I find that minimizing points of contact is not as good as maximizing points of contact with the proper isolation. I find that my skirting [which incidentally is only to hold the squishy balls in place] + squishy balls provide me better isolation. I also find that the more metal is used - the more resonance - so I prefer the wood/PVC/stone approach. But like you rightly said - to each his own and I find that this approach rocks my boat.
Take care!
 

dinyaar

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Hi Again,
Yes i agree that a fabricator on his own may screw up things but a little supervision would get things done.
I also agree that hyper 5 yr olds can create some unusual problems for the HIFI!!!!! Haha.

Rgds
 

persiflage

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Interesting debate :)

How about the best of both worlds - quality stands at DIY prices? I have a pair of imported Norstone stands available at a VFM price... anyone seriously in the market can ping me.

The stands should perform well with any standard sized standmount speaker make.

regards
Persiflage
 

keith_correa

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what a bout a speaker sized block of granite? just thinking aloud....

Thinking aloud is good for the soul - except that people around you when you think aloud begin to give you strange looks :)

But, seriously, a hunk of any solid substance like granite would be GOOD. The heavier the better. If only I could get a solid block of rubber - now that would be something.
 

magma

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Thinking aloud is good for the soul - except that people around you when you think aloud begin to give you strange looks :)

But, seriously, a hunk of any solid substance like granite would be GOOD. The heavier the better. If only I could get a solid block of rubber - now that would be something.

hmm. a solid block off..
i kinda tried this already.
i was able to lay my hands ona solid rectangular section block of wood
12 inches by 10 inches. (these are used in beams).i thought i could get it smoothened and polished so it matches with the furniture at home
the weight however is nowhere near sand filled SS tubes with metal bases so i was unsure of buying the 6 foot block
i think a solid piece of rubber would also not be as heavy

do you guys think such a solid block ( matl like wood or rubber would be any good ? i weighed a solid beam 5inches by 4 inches by 6 foot - it hardly weighed 15kgs)
i should have weighed that 1 foot beam damn!
 
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