subwoofer driver

ShaQ.Blogs

Active Member
Joined
Mar 4, 2011
Messages
724
Points
43
Location
Bangalore
I am looking for subwoofer driver of the likes of Peerleess XXLS. Exploring DIY sub
how good are peerless drivers compared to dayton audio or shiva (stopped production)?

other suggestions are most welcome
 
Dear ShaQ.Blogs

That makes two of us, Mate.
Mind sharing what kind of design you have in mind?

For me, I guess its going to be a ripole/dipole design, maybe with a passive radiator or two thrown in per channel. Its got to be stereo subs, fed with stereo LF through an active XO, X-ed over preferably at 80 hz but certainly no way higher than 100 hz. These twin subs could be coupled to either a MTM open baffle panel (with either a rear firing tweeter too or a single dome/ribbontweeter with the rear cup removed), or even a two-way line array per channel, also, of course, actively Xed over at about 1500-1800 hz.

More on hearing from you.
HTH
Regards
 
Last edited:
Kinda confused with your post. Not sure why your are talking about tweeters et al.

My design is a sealed dual opposed driver design. It will be a passive sub, using an external amp.
It looks like there isnt anyone here who have heard of this particular peerless driver, or they havent seen my post yet :)
 
Last edited:
I am looking for subwoofer driver of the likes of Peerleess XXLS. Exploring DIY sub
how good are peerless drivers compared to dayton audio or shiva (stopped production)?

other suggestions are most welcome

The Peerless XXLS has an excellent reputation as a quality driver and many have used them successfully.

The Dayton Audio subwoofers are pretty good and if purchased on sale, they can be used to create a decent subwoofer system.

The Shiva is my personal favorite and I've used a number of them over the years, including building a downfiring sub using Shiva #1. I was part of the design advisory group on the old "Bass List" that contributed to the actual design of the Shiva. The use of a second voice coil and resistive loading to tune the "Q" of the Shiva was my unique contribution to the design.
Both Dan Wiggins (Avatar/ Audire Audio) and Kevin Haskins (diyCable/ Exodus Audio) are close personal friends of mine.

Best Regards,
TerryO
 
Last edited:
Kinda confused with your post. Not sure why your are talking about tweeters et al.

My design is a sealed dual opposed driver design. It will be a passive sub, using an external amp.
It looks like there isnt anyone here who have heard of this particular peerless driver, or they havent seen my post yet :)

Sorry if I confused you. What I had intended to say is that I intend to go in for a pair of subs with dual drivers in either

*Push-pull mode (a la SL's ORIONs' bass section or his dipole sub here - Dipole Woofer)
d_woof1.gif


*Push-push mode (a la Axel Ridtahler's ripole sub here)
dipol_ridtahler.gif


Also, my (either ripole/dipole or maybe a ripole with a passive radiator or two per subwoofer channel) subs would be twin bass modules on which either of the mid-tweeter panel designs that I have in mind would get propped/coupled to. So, the tweeter and mid part has nothing to do with your query, per se. maybe thats how I confused you, apologies for that.

Anybody who has been doing or even reading about DIY subwoofers is bound to have heard about the wonderful driver you mentioned. They are known for their 'air moving potential' due to more-than-usual excursion ie often to the tune of 13mm, IIRC. Now, AFAIK, they are great drivers for a ripole/dipole design which alongwith a high 'Xmax' , also need to have a relatively higher 'Qts'.

Further, a driver's suitability for various kinds of enclosures is indicated by the EBP factor, amongst others. Do bear in mind that these are indicators only and that exceptions do prove the rule. Here's an extract from this page
The Deep Discount / Knowledgebase / What determines the best type of enclosure for a paticular woofer (sealed, venterd, single-reflex or dual-reflex bandpass enclosures)?
QUOTE
Generally speaking, there are some speaker specifications that lend a driver to one type of enclosure over another, although most drivers are suited to more than one type of enclosure. ***These are generalizations and are NOT cast in stone!***

Woofers that perform best in sealed enclosures (or single-reflex bandpass) usually have a lower Fs, slightly higher Qts and more Xmax than woofers designed for vented (or dual-reflex bandpass) enclosures.

There is also a formula to calculate what is called the "efficiency bandwidth product" of a particular driver. The EBP of a woofer can be used as a guideline for the enclosure type. It is calculated with the formula:

EBP= Fs / Qes

EBP in the vicinity of 50 or lower indicates a sealed enclosure, while EBP of 100 or higher indicates a vented enclosure.

***Again, these are suggestions only, as the equations simply show a woofer's "preference". The best enclosure for you is the one you like the sound of best!***

UNQUOTE

The Peerless XXLS 12" and 10" drivers have an EBP of 88.5 and 101 respectively. If I were you, I would use a 12"(or two 8"/10") passive radiator(s) with a 10'' XXLS driver in a box. With the 12 '' XXLS, again, I would go in for a PR option. PRs are akin to ported enclosures minus that annoying port turbulence noise that ported designs are infamous for. Sealed designs OTOH, provide accurate and detailed bass but need more power (read EQ)in the ELFs.

Therefore, with small drivers, its better to go in for PRs, you get the best of both sealed and ported designs.
(I call 10 and 12 inchers small as I am lucky to have a 21 inch subwoofer driver [through a dear friend], thats also in the design-consideration stage, it might end up as a down-firing coffee table with a 10/12'' PR in each wall, maybe. . .)


Also, in case you decide to go in for a PR design, you won't need to go in for any of the firangi stuff. You can go in for these from Varsha Electronics in Mumbai
Products - PeerlessAudio.com
Products - PeerlessAudio.com
Products - PeerlessAudio.com

Also, since you said that you had a dual opposed sealed design in mind, I do take it that you will mount the drivers back-to-back on opposite walls of the cabinet, right? Now, If that be so, two questions that you need to answer:-

As you sit, which way would the drivers face ie back-to-front or left-to-right?

Would the opposing drivers be in phase or out of phase with each other?
(IE would they be in push-push mode or in push-pull mode?)

Answers to these questions will help me contribute another two phooti Kaudies

Hope this helps
Cheerio
 
Last edited:
The variety of "W" open baffle sub designs can sound excellent. I've heard a number of them and they can work very well. I've been meaning to try it out myself, but it seems that I always end up going in another direction with some other project.

So many projects, so little time!

Best Regards,
TerryO
 
The variety of "W" open baffle sub designs can sound excellent. I've heard a number of them and they can work very well. I've been meaning to try it out myself, but it seems that I always end up going in another direction with some other project.

So many projects, so little time!

Best Regards,
TerryO

Dear TerryO and ShaQ,
I guess thats so because one hears only what one should ie the driver(s)and not the 'box/cabinet' and/or 'the room'. The room-interaction is phenomenally mitigated to a minimum essential because of the figure-of-8 radiation pattern and the cancellation factor.

Nevertheless, there ARE a few trade-offs that I am sure you'll agreeto and are already aware of, but am posting these, all the same, for the benefit of the OP and other FMs:-

* No chest-thumping/wall-shaking(read 'mostly artificial') bass here but way much more than enough for a thoroughly musical listen. Bass fiends of the third kind, look elsewhere. In any case, we are talking only stereo here, not movies.

* Driver selection for any open baffle speaker is very critical. There's no box/port etc to cater to the driver inadequacies. There's only baffle size and relative driver placement to play with and with both there's a point you can't go beyond.

* They need at least 2' space behind them(thats precious real estate in many urban apartment settings).

* They may need a touch of EQ for the ELFs ie for the frequencies below the roll-off point, which, contrary to popular belief, is actually a good thing, although it necessitates some budget stretching skills.

* IMO, they shine to the max only with an active XO set-up, which entails some extra cost.

Speaking of projects that inspire but one has not gone in for due to want of time, money, space and patience . . . .:p:D:p:D

:licklips::licklips::licklips: Something on these lines
GrandOrgueVorne.JPG



;););)
GrandOrgueHinten.JPG


Warmest Regards
Cheerio

PS - I am very well and truly, technically challenged, so please feel free to correct me anywhere.
 
Last edited:
Order your Rega Turntables & Amplifiers from HiFiMART.com - India's reputed online dealer.
Back
Top