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Swift 2018 stock HU subwoofer upgrade

Joined
Apr 19, 2018
Messages
35
Likes
19
Points
8
Location
Chennai
#1
Hi guys,
This is Manoj Sivaraman back with another DIY project. So this basically applies for all cars hatchback cars.
The stock speakers and HU was more than sufficient thought the unit lacks punchy bass and distorts due to bass being sent to all door speakers.
We will do a basic upgrade under budget of 6k max
Requirment:
Good punchy yet deep bass with the stock HU and speakers.
Things purchased:
A good 10" Subwoofer capable of handling 300w RMS
A monoblock amplifier capable of 300w max power
Parcel tray for Swift (say your specific car)
Wiring kit
COST ESTIMATE

HYEE 10" 4OHM SUBWOOFER - 2000/- INR
Review of this sub click the link below:
https://www.hifivision.com/threads/added-to-my-collection-hyee-subwoofer.70746/
BLAUPUNKT EMA255 - 3000/- INR
WIRING KIT - 700/- INR
PARCEL SHELF IN PLYWOOD - 600/-
Primary thing is to select the amplifier and subwoofer
Say if your car HU has claimed power of 55x4, 50wx4 etc etc..
It's true RMS rating per channel will be about 20-25w RMS so it's approximately 80-100w RMS TOTALLY adding all 4 speakers.
Stock HUs also range between 18-25w per channel RMS
It also approximates to a 100w RMS on all 4 speakers.

A BASIC RULE FOR GOOD BASS IS TO MATCH LFE channel or SUB channel TWICE AS MUCH POWER AS OF YOUR FULL RANGE SPEAKER'S power.....

So I searched for monoblocks and short listed
JBL
Pioneer
Kenwood
Blaupunkt
All of the brands had plasticky casings which doesn't aid much in cooling, cuz you all know a class AB amplifier is only 65-70% efficient rest is all heat...
Running 165w - 180w RMS isn't that easy without the amp getting heated up pretty quick.
This is where all local installers fail to understand.
Installation of amp in back seat covered with mat or etc. Will not help in cooling and plastic body is just like a insulator.
Blaupunkt on the other hand has all aluminum extrusion body which is indeed a heat sink itself. Helps out pretty well in a car environment.
Kudos to great design....
Sound wise blaupunkt is smooth not punchy like pioneers.
IMG_20180701_211352.jpg
BLAUPUNKT EMA 255
IMG_20180701_211355.jpg
D Trek amplifier install kit
Wiring gauge selection also plays a major role in amp's power handling.
Wire material like copper, aluminum, no.of. Strands inside also decides the current carrying nature of wire.
Always remember to place the amplifier close to battery as possible.
Moving the amplifier to the boot is a bad idea if you wish to use a thin gauge wire.
I always place them underseat so that the temprature stays under control.
IMG_20180701_211349.jpg

This weekend I'll be installing things and wiring up.
I'll update how things move very soon
Stay in touch post your views and openions down below
Suggestions and corrections are welcomed
 
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Dr.Lakshay

Active Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2017
Messages
286
Likes
95
Points
28
Location
Ghaziabad
#2
Hi guys,
This is Manoj Sivaraman back with another DIY project. So this basically applies for all cars hatchback cars.
The stock speakers and HU was more than sufficient thought the unit lacks punchy bass and distorts due to bass being sent to all door speakers.
We will do a basic upgrade under budget of 6k max
Requirment:
Good punchy yet deep bass with the stock HU and speakers.
Things purchased:
A good 10" Subwoofer capable of handling 300w RMS
A monoblock amplifier capable of 300w max power
Parcel tray for Swift (say your specific car)
Wiring kit
COST ESTIMATE

HYEE 10" 4OHM SUBWOOFER - 2000/- INR
Review of this sub click the link below:
https://www.hifivision.com/threads/added-to-my-collection-hyee-subwoofer.70746/
BLAUPUNKT EMA255 - 3000/- INR
WIRING KIT - 700/- INR
PARCEL SHELF IN PLYWOOD - 600/-
Primary thing is to select the amplifier and subwoofer
Say if your car HU has claimed power of 55x4, 50wx4 etc etc..
It's true RMS rating per channel will be about 20-25w RMS so it's approximately 80-100w RMS TOTALLY adding all 4 speakers.
Stock HUs also range between 18-25w per channel RMS
It also approximates to a 100w RMS on all 4 speakers.

A BASIC RULE FOR GOOD BASS IS TO MATCH LFE channel or SUB channel TWICE AS MUCH POWER AS OF YOUR FULL RANGE SPEAKER'S power.....

So I searched for monoblocks and short listed
JBL
Pioneer
Kenwood
Blaupunkt
All of the brands had plasticky casings which doesn't aid much in cooling, cuz you all know a class AB amplifier is only 65-70% efficient rest is all heat...
Running 165w - 180w RMS isn't that easy without the amp getting heated up pretty quick.
This is where all local installers fail to understand.
Installation of amp in back seat covered with mat or etc. Will not help in cooling and plastic body is just like a insulator.
Blaupunkt on the other hand has all aluminum extrusion body which is indeed a heat sink itself. Helps out pretty well in a car environment.
Kudos to great design....
Sound wise blaupunkt is smooth not punchy like pioneers.
View attachment 28658
BLAUPUNKT EMA 255
View attachment 28659
D Trek amplifier install kit
Wiring gauge selection also plays a major role in amp's power handling.
Wire material like copper, aluminum, no.of. Strands inside also decides the current carrying nature of wire.
Always remember to place the amplifier close to battery as possible.
Moving the amplifier to the boot is a bad idea if you wish to use a thin gauge wire.
I always place them underseat so that the temprature stays under control.
View attachment 28661

This weekend I'll be installing things and wiring up.
I'll update how things move very soon
Stay in touch post your views and openions down below
Suggestions and corrections are welcomed
I would advise you to use a better wiring kit. You could rather use house hold finolex or havells wire. They are pure copper. But these cheap wiring kits don't have copper wires.
Also how are you going to tap into the stock headunit to get a signal? You will loose two channel in the process of adding a sub, won't you?
 
Joined
Apr 19, 2018
Messages
35
Likes
19
Points
8
Location
Chennai
#3
I would advise you to use a better wiring kit. You could rather use house hold finolex or havells wire. They are pure copper. But these cheap wiring kits don't have copper wires.
Also how are you going to tap into the stock headunit to get a signal? You will loose two channel in the process of adding a sub, won't you?
My friend actually bought the wiring kit without asking me
After buying I noticed aluminum wires
Household finolex, havells and fybros are best as they also have flame retardant character.
I'll use high level inputs, just tapping from front speaker lines
This will retain both front and rear channel + sub channel
 

Dr.Lakshay

Active Member
Joined
Apr 7, 2017
Messages
286
Likes
95
Points
28
Location
Ghaziabad
#4
Household finolex, havells and fybros are best as they also have flame retardant character.
I'll use high level inputs, just tapping from front speaker lines
This will retain both front and rear channel + sub channel
Yes. I myself use havells 16mmsq for my car setup.
I'm not quite sure how well that tapping into will work. Plus you will loose the electrical warranty if you cut/splice any stock wires.
 
Joined
Apr 19, 2018
Messages
35
Likes
19
Points
8
Location
Chennai
#5
Yes. I myself use havells 16mmsq for my car setup.
I'm not quite sure how well that tapping into will work. Plus you will loose the electrical warranty if you cut/splice any stock wires.
I'm using positap clips I won't lose warranty if any issues arise I'll remove those...
I have also used fybros dual layer 16sqmm for my own car build (Renault Scala) same blaupunkt amp. And a 8 inch subwoofer.
I'll update on Monday how things go.... I'll be installing this weekend...
 
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