Yamaha DSP-A2070

[amol12]

I would tend to what avidyarthy has to say. Also to make the pull mode (exhaust mode) work effectively you can block the top vents not covered by the fans. This will induce more air from vents other than top. But then you will have to be very sure that fans are switched on all the time. If they fail it will be a disaster.

 

[rishiguru]

Ok .....
Now check carefully, the pic you shared of the new amp. The fans on blow-thru mode are placed at the bottom of the amp ... drawing in cool air from the teeny weeny space available between the small legs of the amp (when grounded). Draw-in of ambient air through the small air path is easy and the blow thru is happening on the heat sink area .... blow going up. That means, it is NOT working against the 'hot air going up' natural phenomenon. Here too, you would have a hot air blast from the top of the amp.

Whereas, you have executed the fans on blow-thru on the top of your amp ... working against nature ... thinking the hot air blow out would happen easily from the below slot. Is it possible ??????

First, there would be air turbulence created due to the counter force as the natural tendency of hot air would be to rise up.

Second, since, now the volume of air has considerably increased due to increased temperature leading to the reduction in air density .... would it be possible for the increased volume of hot air to make an easy path from the bottom of the amp ???? Don't think so..... since the pressure drop now would be further increased due to lack of free space at the amp bottom. It might force a large amount of hot air to find a lesser pressure drop route available ... that is, through the other areas of the amp which design-wise need not be engulfed with hot air ever.

Just putting the logics straight .... I, kind of indulge in this on a daily basis at work, so have the patience to put it in here, in black and white ....

Rest, if you are satisfied with your execution ...... abso fine ... it is always the end result that matters.

After a lot of thinking I believe you are right & that pulling air out this amp will a better & more reliable solution than gushing air into it.

Pushing air will always be better than pulling out of it from a cooling point of view but then as you pointed out the heated air with less density & more volume is going to circulate inside the system which can be counter-productive & have detrimental effect on the amp.

So, i decided to change from push mode to pull mode fan cooling. Also since the performance of push mode cannot be achieved in pull mode, why not increase the number of fans.

After all when you cannot win by performance you try to win by number.

So now there are six CoolerMaster 80mm fans working in the pull mode.

Some pics of my DIY:

As you can see from the above images the heatsinks are no more visible from above and their upper area are completely covered by these fans. I also placed them in such a way that 75% of the fan area is covered by the heatsink fins where as the rest 25% takes care of the transformer ,power capacitor and main board area.

The reasons for converting from push mode to pull mode are:

1) Pull mode follows the natural cycle. Surrounding air around the heatsink fins gets heated & looses density & increases in volume. This is when air convection currents set in & the heated air rises above. The six fans sitting at the top of the amp then pulls this hot air out of the system retaining the natural cycle.

2) As the fans pull air from the top of the amp, low air pressure gets created inside it resulting cool air being drawn from the vents situated below the amp.

3) Next to no air turbulence gets created inside the amp.

4) Dust accumulation inside the amp is much less compared to the push mode.

6) And surely, avidyarthy is a pro.

Thanks avidyarthy for your valuable suggestions.

 

[amol12]

4) Dust accumulation inside the amp is much less compared to the push mode.

While adding a fan to my existing CPU I had read that positive pressure (push type) is better when it comes to dust. It forces the dust out of the system. Pull type is next to ineffective when it comes to forcing the dust out.
Anyways in our conditions it does not matter. Its too dusty for any fans to clean it up/prevent it from getting dsuty.

 

[avidyarthy]

Thanks @ rishiguru.
Love to share whatever little I know from my work.

BTW, NOW you would have to make sure that at least 50% of the fans must always be in operation when the amp is ON ......... else, disaster ..

 

[jaudere]

Hmmm,
I wonder how the original owner used and kept the amp in good condition for so many years without thinking of and doing what you guys are thinking. Is all this absolutely necessary?

 

[rishiguru]

I would tend to what avidyarthy has to say. Also to make the pull mode (exhaust mode) work effectively you can block the top vents not covered by the fans. This will induce more air from vents other than top.

Yes, I know that. Since the upper vents of the amp are left open these fans will certainly draw the maximum amount of cool air from the upper vent rather from blow the amp. With the upper vents open these fans will always pump out cool air that it draws from upper vents, while my aim is to draw cool air from the vents situated below the amp near the heatsink fin area. So, I blocked the upper vents with a channel file plastic sheet.

These sheets are very effective & can easily be removed as and when required.

The six 80mm CoolerMaster fans are revving at speed of 2,000 revolutions per minute, creating an air pressure difference of 2.330 mmH2O X 6 =~ 14 mmH2O. These fans are also capable of an airflow of 173 CFM in total.

Now with the upper vents blocked and the fans creating these levels of airflow & air pressure difference, cool air is now forced to come from down under i.e. from the vents situated below the heat sinks. When I put my hands below the amp I can feel the cool air being sucked in. This air then passes through the heatsink fin area getting hot & expand while rising up & ultimately is sucked out by these fans following the natural convection cycle. So, the exhaust air is a little bit warmer this time.

While nearly 75% of the fan area is above the heatsink fins and does this job, the rest 25% sucks air out from the rest of the amp. Effective cooling.

But then you will have to be very sure that fans are switched on all the time. If they fail it will be a disaster.

All the six fans work in tandem & i always look that the fans are running when i put the amp on. And yes, I have to be careful.

Thanks a lot amol12 for your helpful insight.

 

[avidyarthy]

Good ....... now this being settled, it is time now to work on the aesthetics. You would now need black colour plastic piping to hide the red and yellow cables of the fans .... to match with the amp black colour.

Then, the amp would start looking and performing :yahoo:

 

[rishiguru]

Good ....... now this being settled, it is time now to work on the aesthetics. You would now need black colour plastic piping to hide the red and yellow cables of the fans .... to match with the amp black colour.

Then, the amp would start looking and performing :yahoo:

Good point avidyarthy, my amp sounds exemplary, but they must look good too.

It must be a combination of performance & panache.

Looking for the black pipes now.:indifferent14:

 

[avidyarthy]

Phewwww ..... audiophiles .... to-be-audiophiles .... are a crazy breed. What lengths can they go to achieve something which has gone into their heads ... no wonder wives abhor this indulgence ....

 

[rishiguru]

Phewwww ..... audiophiles .... to-be-audiophiles .... are a crazy breed. What lengths can they go to achieve something which has gone into their heads ... no wonder wives abhor this indulgence ....

Ha ha .... rightly so.

Good for me, I am young & not married yet. Still got some time left to play hell loud and enjoy the sound of music. :yahoo:

 

[rishiguru]

Finally cracked into the 100 reputation points barrier. (Self proclaimed unashamed propaganda )



That too after posting only 196 posts in hifivision.hyeah:

My Rep Ratio : 100/196 = 0.510

Has anyone have a better rep ratio than me? Just for interest. :lol:

This means my every other post received a rep point. :yahoo:

Man i do not know how a noob like me get so much rep points.

I want to thank every audiophile & learned members of hifivision for giving me this opportunity and to be a part of this wonderful group of people and let me grow.

Warm Regards
rishiguru

 

[jaudere]

Ha ha .... rightly so.

Good for me, I am young & not married yet. Still got some time left to play hell loud and enjoy the sound of music. :yahoo:

Before marriage, no one introduced me to this hobby. Anyway I neither had money nor the wife or time. Now I have money &some time but wife also.
You are lucky to have money,time but not the wife.

 

[dovin]

Hi Rishiguru,

I have a Yamaha DSP A1 that I got in 1998 in the US. I used it for 4-5 years, then moved to India. Its been sitting in a box all this time and just now I have taken it out and tested (After I got a good voltage converter!!) to see if its still working. It is!

I hope to get the HT setup done in another month's time and back to enjoying the Yamaha experience. It looks almost exactly like your 2070.

Nice to see someone here who has a Yamaha DSP series and enjoying it.

regards,
Dovin

 

[rishiguru]

Before marriage, no one introduced me to this hobby. Anyway I neither had money nor the wife or time. Now I have money &some time but wife also.
You are lucky to have money,time but not the wife.

Congratulatios jaudere for being fortunate enough of having a wife who understands your needs regarding music & Audiophilia!!!!

My elder sister can hardly differentiate the sound quality between Logitech Z-2300 & my mighty Yamaha DSP-A2070

She thinks Z-2300 is cute while DSP-A2070 & Sony bookshelves are black ugly boxes. According to her these systems should be very small so that they do not rob the decency of the room.

Man you are lucky.:thumbsup:

Anyway I feel good to be back at hifivision after nearly two weeks of hard work for official reasons. I missed a lot.

 

[rishiguru]

Hi Rishiguru,

I have a Yamaha DSP A1 that I got in 1998 in the US. I used it for 4-5 years, then moved to India. Its been sitting in a box all this time and just now I have taken it out and tested (After I got a good voltage converter!!) to see if its still working. It is!

I hope to get the HT setup done in another month's time and back to enjoying the Yamaha experience. It looks almost exactly like your 2070.

Nice to see someone here who has a Yamaha DSP series and enjoying it.

regards,
Dovin

Thanks dovin for your appreciation. The DSP-A1 is undeniably one of the best amps of Yamaha. I think A1 was released after A3090. This DSP range just got fatter with time having more & more features cramped in.

Regarding me, well I am just a regular bloke who is trying to understand what true sound quality really means. And I know I have lot to learn.

 

[rishiguru]

On the back of AVR i see Coupler section. What are these ? Pre In / Pre Out?

These couplers are for using these amp as a pre or power amp. These couplers connect the inbuilt 7 channel pre amplifier with the inbuilt 7 channel power amplifiers.

So by talking out the couplers one can:

1) Use a discrete 7 channel pre amp with the DSP-A2070 used as a 7 channel power amp.

2) Use the inbuilt 7 channel pre amp to power any discrete 7 channel power amp.

The dsp series are very well known for their good phono stage. And yes upto 2 subwoofers are supported by DSP-A2070 pre amp.

 

[hemantwaghe]

"The amazing thing is, before the top of the amp used to get hot (hot air having less density always rises up), now there is a hot breeze from below while the top remains cool. This means effective cooling is taking place".

Tend to disagree with you here ........

In a still atmosphere, where there is no air movement, whenever there is a heat source (in your case, the heat sinks and few transistors) natural air convection currents set in. 'Heat transfer' makes the heat source transmit the heat to the immediate surrounding air, which gets hot and naturally rise above. The ampflier is so designed that the air vents are placed on top of it, whose role is to throw out the 'lighter' hot air from the amplifier top, thus creating a negative draft within the amplifier, which inturn invites the surrounding ambient cooler air to enter the equipment from whatever 'other' inlet ports given. You say, such ports are there on the bottom of the amp .... right? It is for this reason your amp used to get hot on the top .... as all amps do. But, thats how is has been designed !

What you have now done is to force outside cool air inside. You have made this into a 'forced' blow-thru unit ..... which might prove counter-productive. Why so, since many components which may not be attuned to ever get heated would now continuously get a stream of warm ... maybe, hot forced air .... might be detrimental in the long run.

What I would suggest, is that you reverse the fans and make it into a draw-thru operation. In other words, pull the hot air from the unit top. This would create a strong negative draft inside the unit ..... which would bring in outside cool air continuously .... and keep the unit in its original format. You would now find a steady stream .... sorry, blast of hot air blow from your amp top. Coooool ... thats how the Japos have designed it.

Obviously, the Calcutta heat (air) would also get carried in and end up getting hotter than usual blast from the top outlet..... which would make matters bad in a non-airconditioned listening room ...

"superhot" info!!

Thanks for saving rishiguru from wrong blowjob!

 

[hemantwaghe]

"The amazing thing is, before the top of the amp used to get hot (hot air having less density always rises up), now there is a hot breeze from below while the top remains cool. This means effective cooling is taking place".

Tend to disagree with you here ........

In a still atmosphere, where there is no air movement, whenever there is a heat source (in your case, the heat sinks and few transistors) natural air convection currents set in. 'Heat transfer' makes the heat source transmit the heat to the immediate surrounding air, which gets hot and naturally rise above. The ampflier is so designed that the air vents are placed on top of it, whose role is to throw out the 'lighter' hot air from the amplifier top, thus creating a negative draft within the amplifier, which inturn invites the surrounding ambient cooler air to enter the equipment from whatever 'other' inlet ports given. You say, such ports are there on the bottom of the amp .... right? It is for this reason your amp used to get hot on the top .... as all amps do. But, thats how is has been designed !

What you have now done is to force outside cool air inside. You have made this into a 'forced' blow-thru unit ..... which might prove counter-productive. Why so, since many components which may not be attuned to ever get heated would now continuously get a stream of warm ... maybe, hot forced air .... might be detrimental in the long run.

What I would suggest, is that you reverse the fans and make it into a draw-thru operation. In other words, pull the hot air from the unit top. This would create a strong negative draft inside the unit ..... which would bring in outside cool air continuously .... and keep the unit in its original format. You would now find a steady stream .... sorry, blast of hot air blow from your amp top. Coooool ... thats how the Japos have designed it.

Obviously, the Calcutta heat (air) would also get carried in and end up getting hotter than usual blast from the top outlet..... which would make matters bad in a non-airconditioned listening room ...

"superhot" info!!

Thanks for saving rishiguru from wrong blowjob!

Rishi you were blowing in wrong direction..

 

[avidyarthy]

^^^^^ ..... CBJ or BBBJ ......

 

[skinknmisery]

Apparently there are some folks who post here that appreciate the yamaha dsp a2070 amplifier and I would value their input as to the current monetary value of a good yamaha sytem that I have located. I have read the posts concerning this amp by rishiguru and appreciate greatly the comments and specifications.

by the by: Since the value of a good 'wife' has recently been discussed I'll have to admit that Robin gave me a pair of 1982 vintage Klipsch LaScalla speaker for my last birthday after a late night confession (later forgotten) that I had drooled over the speakers since I graduated from high school. ... I know the worth of that... priceless

and in fact that's why I need a good amplifier because I've got a good wife heheh

ssooooo.... I'm not calling my self an audiophile but I have a pair of La Scala's and I like to play them loud... I appreciate what they sound like and I'm not looking for sound processing but sound amplification. I only have some Bose 201s and some advent a200s otherwise but the klipsch are in the shop and need to rock. and here's the skinny:

I've located a system consisting of three components what would you give for them if they looked new with remotes and user manuals etc... like they sat in a second home and didn't get use much at all.

yamaha dsp a2070 processor/ amplifier
yamaha dx2 amplifier
tx480 reciever

it seems as though I would have two amplifiers either of which would work for my two speaker system although I know the mx2 would require a pre amp to work solo and the signal processor of the a2070 is dated but (not required specifically for a two speaker system) the reciever is of no value to me at all but oh... i'm drooling over what I know about the amps....

advise me please
skink n missouri