Alignment question

[tek]

Hello all

I have a question regarding the cartridge alignment. I am using an Ortofon 2M red cartridge. Originally I was using it on a Project Genie TT, but I have now switched to a Cosmic Cogram TT. The cart was initially set up by the dealer, so it was aligned to the Genie. Later on I switched to a Technics SL D2, and my dealer realigned the cart for the Technics

My question is, if I use it on a diff TT, will it need to be realigned? I don't have any issues with sound, but it usually feels a bit distorted when it is playing the last 2 tracks of a record side. Basically I have unscrewed the headshell from the Technics, and put it on the Cosmic, and rebalanced the tonearm and set the weight. I have not done any adjustment to the alignment.

If I want to realign it, what tools would I need to do that? I have a plastic alignment tool that came with my Genie. Can I use that for my Cosmic TT, or do I need a special alignment tool for that particular TT? I also have a Technics SL D2. Can I use the alignment tool with that?

I am a complete newbie when it comes to alignment, and I have never done it before, so any help or advice would be great!

Cheers
Tek

 

[stevieboy]

Hi Tek,

The plastic jig that came with the Genie should do it if it's a two point protractor. Or you could download a free two point protractor from vinyl engine. Basically you put this protractor on your turntable, with the spindle hole over the spindle and then pray that you can get the needle tip to align at the center of the outer point and inner point both of which are marked on the alignment tool. You either move the cartridge forward in the shell, first unscrewing the screws of course a little and the wiggle the cart left and right to make sure the cantilever is in a straight line with the lines on the alignment protractor.

All this assuming your arm is level to begin with. Then move the arm height up or down, based on your preference for more treble or more bass. Most people set it at level and are done with it.

The front back of the cartridge, left right of cartridge and arm height are all interlinked and a change in one will affect the other so patient trial and listening is required over the course of days/weeks to get it right, depending on your skill level.

regards

 

[tek]

Thanks Stevieboy. I tried doing this, but do you have to keep the protractor still? i.e., the cart seems to be aligned to the outer point, but if i keep the protractor still and move the arm to hit the inner point, it goes way off. But if I move the protractor so the point is under the stylus, then it seems aligned.

Not sure if this sounds like it makes sense! I think i'm doing something wrong here? lol

 

[tek]

There aren't any videos online detailing this process by any chance are there?

 

[sachu888]

There aren't any videos online detailing this process by any chance are there?

HI,

Cartridge Alignment Protractors | Free Turntable, Tonearm & Cartridge Tools | Vinyl Engine
Please click on the above link and download the suitable protector for your TT,and follow the instructions for alignment.

Regards,

Sachin

 

[G401fan]

Hi Tek,
You do need to move the protractor when shifting from the outer alignment point to the inner alignment point. There's no other way.

Plus, the cartridge body MUST be parallel to the lines drawn on the protractor on both sides of the alignment point. In case it isn't, you need to advance/retract the cartridge body(as Stevieboy pointed out) in the headshell (in case there is scope for that) till you get it right, or shift the tonearm base, which is possible with SME arms.

It's also very critical to get azymuth right, i.e. the headshell/Cartridge must be parallel to the record surface. You can get a tiny lightweight circular spirit level that can be set to sit on top of the headshell for the purpose of checking. You lower the arm on to a stationary record and check. (Don't worry, it's too light to damage your cantilever). I found one of this type at a hardware store at Heera Panna many years ago and it has stood me in good stead. It's available from many of the online vinyl parts stores, and also on eBay. Here's a link:

SME 3009 tonearm spirit level headshell set up | eBay UK

rgds,

 

[stevieboy]

Hi tek, G401fan,

I have always understood that the tip should be in the center of the points at both the alignment points on the protractor at the same time cos the needle has to move in a preset optimum arc across the record. If one moves the protractor, the needle does not follow this set arc then! This is where the skill and patience lies, matching the needle at the two points without moving the protractor. Then one achieves true alignment. If you move the protractor you're changing parameters from the first point that you had set. Parameters like effective length of the tonearm, ie the distance the cart is moved in front or back in the headshell, angle of cart must remain constant across the record! This is where a back and forth between the two points keeps happening to get the needle correct at both the points.

regards

Edit: Look at it this way, the cartridge has to move in an arc across the record. Now, in this arc, there are two null points where everything is perfect and these are the points you need to align against. Now if you align the cart according to the outer point and have the protractor fixed, you might find that you need to move the cart back or forward in the headshell in order to have it sit center of the second alignment point and this will give you true alignment across both the points. However, if you rotate the protractor, how do you make sure the cart is tracing the correct arc across the record? Because the correct front/back point of the cart in the headshell will only be found when both the points you're aligning against are fixed. I've done it this way and its certainly possible and as far as I remember the recommended way. I tried the other way in my initial days and found that its easier to get alignment at the point but it was not true alignment, distortion existed in the last tracks.

Here's a quote from vinylengine

"First use the grid closest to the spindle hole. Put the cartridge in the middle of the headshell; twist the cartridge clockwise or anti-clockwise in order for you to observe the alignment with the grid. When its right, go to the second grid.
If the cartridge must be rotated clockwise (or anti-clockwise) to be aligned with the second grid, move the cartridge forwards (or backwards) in the headshell, then go back to the first grid. Align the cartridge and check with the second grid; repeat until alignment is achieved at both points."

And the page itself http://www.vinylengine.com/protractor-user-guide.shtml

Here's another link http://www.enjoythemusic.com/freestuff.htm

 

[jls001]

See the pic on this page from the Analog Dept: 2 Pt Align

The cartridge needs to align exactly atop the two hatched areas (the inner and outer null points).
Joshua

 

[G401fan]

Hi Stevieboy,

It all depends on what sort of protractor you have. Most of those that are supplied with tonearms (all SME manuals contain one) tend to be rectangular pieces of hard paper with a hole at one end that should be put around the TT spindle, and with two null points. Since both null points are on the same straight line, it is impossible to adjust for both points without moving the protractor itself, because as you rightly pointed out the stylus moves in an arc.

I did once have a protractor printed from an online site (sadly I've forgotten the link) that did show the null points in an arc, which made it possible to adjust for both points without shifting the protractor itself, but such protractors are rare. With the common type, you HAVE to move the protractor- the distance otherwise makes any alignment impossible.

The important thing to note is that the cartridge is perfectly parallel to the grooves at only two points on a record: the first track and the last track. The Baerwald and Loefgren measurements are fundamentally distances from the spindle, as seen by a particular tonearm geometry. My own SME III arm was designed for the Stevenson method - inner null point at 60mm. Later versions of the arm tube, as also the SME 3009, were redesigned for Baerwald - 66mm. It's important to know which distance your arm geometry (and headshell rake angle) was designed for (the majority use Baerwald). Once it's set for a particular arm and cartridge (as cartridges too do not have standardised lenghts), you don't have to re-adjust anything. I've never had inner groove distortion, ever.

regards,

 

[stevieboy]

Hi G401fan,

Thanks for that clarification. Yes I was only referring to the curved arc two point protractor which is the common one on vinylengine etc. That's why I included the link so tek has a reference. I guess I should have clarified which two point protractor I was referring to, my bad With the straight line two point as you say, no way of aligning the two hehe

Regards

By the way I'm going to order the Mintlp protractor. Let's see how that goes... I like the idea of a custom built protractor for specific arms!

 

[tek]

Hey guys

Thanks for all the feedback. G401fan is right, I have the rectangular shaped 2 point protractor that I used. I checked it out, and when it's on the 2 points, it sits nicely and seems almost perfectly aligned, and parallel to the lines. I say almost, as it looks like it is just sliiiiightly off from being perfectly parallel. Does this make a huge difference? Should I leave it as is, or if i loosen the screws and adjust and manage to get it more parallel, will it really improve the sound much? Lately I've been feeling like i've been getting a bit of distortion on the high end.. and it's pretty annoying!

 

[jls001]

Lately I've been feeling like i've been getting a bit of distortion on the high end.. and it's pretty annoying!

If you hear it, it's there. The human ear is pretty acute in discerning undesired signal. No harm trying to perfect it further.
Joshua

 

[stevieboy]

Hi tek,

I second Joshua, a magnifying glass would help seeing things easier. One needs it with the small dimensions involved.

regards