Canon 550 d for 23 k

yup.. see if you can get hold of their CC or send em an email for the same stating your interest and final price quote to your city with shipping and all included..
 
Even I was looking for the Canon 550D. My friend just got a Nikon D90 and seems it is better than the Canon.

The D90 is a step higher than the EOS 550d. IMO if you are getting a new camera, then look at current generation cameras. These would be the EOS 600d, Nikon D3100 and the Nikon D7000. The D5000 is is due for a replacement and the D7000 is like a replacement for the D90, although at a higher price point.

-- no1lives4ever
 
i saw the pics taken by d90 and found they are 2 plain jain .
they required some processing to come out wow feel.like colors,contrast and sharpness
while canon algorithm is good for interanal processing and comes with wow feel.
it completely "mho"
what u guys feel ?
 
i saw the pics taken by d90 and found they are 2 plain jain .
they required some processing to come out wow feel.like colors,contrast and sharpness
while canon algorithm is good for interanal processing and comes with wow feel.
it completely "mho"
what u guys feel ?

I have read in forum that by default D90 is set for less contrast and sharpness than Canon, hence plain jane feel. These settings are configurable and you can set it to your liking.
 
i saw the pics taken by d90 and found they are 2 plain jain .
they required some processing to come out wow feel.like colors,contrast and sharpness
while canon algorithm is good for interanal processing and comes with wow feel.
it completely "mho"
what u guys feel ?

If you are planning to use a DSLR in its factory default settings, then maybe you should not be looking at a DSLR.

When you get a DSLR, you should look into the picture quality settings and modify them as per your choices. Both Nikon and Canon sensors can produce very similar images with the appropriate image quality tweaks. For this reason I tend to avoid reviews of DSLRs which are done with the default settings.

The Nikon defaults are designed for a more natural look, although over the years this has changed and in newer Nikon models, the contrast and saturation has been bumped up quite a bit for the default JPEG mode.

On most Nikons, the default JPEG mode uses lower contrast, saturation and sharpness settings. This is done to ensure that the image captures more information, so that when you post process it later on, you can retrieve more information from the images. Contrast, Saturation and sharpness are 3 things which you can add to an image very easily during post processing, but they are next to impossible to remove once already in the image.

-- no1lives4ever
 
If you are planning to use a DSLR in its factory default settings, then maybe you should not be looking at a DSLR.

When you get a DSLR, you should look into the picture quality settings and modify them as per your choices. Both Nikon and Canon sensors can produce very similar images with the appropriate image quality tweaks. For this reason I tend to avoid reviews of DSLRs which are done with the default settings.

The Nikon defaults are designed for a more natural look, although over the years this has changed and in newer Nikon models, the contrast and saturation has been bumped up quite a bit for the default JPEG mode.

On most Nikons, the default JPEG mode uses lower contrast, saturation and sharpness settings. This is done to ensure that the image captures more information, so that when you post process it later on, you can retrieve more information from the images. Contrast, Saturation and sharpness are 3 things which you can add to an image very easily during post processing, but they are next to impossible to remove once already in the image.

-- no1lives4ever


to true to be said.... dslr is meant to be used with manual modes and settings... not with default settings and auto operation... else it better to get hold of an pocket P&S camera and use it on default.. m sure in daylight.. wont be a huge diffrence...


also any point of time you take a DSlr try to shoot raw you will get more options to customize it...
 
to true to be said.... dslr is meant to be used with manual modes and settings... not with default settings and auto operation... else it better to get hold of an pocket P&S camera and use it on default.. m sure in daylight.. wont be a huge diffrence...


also any point of time you take a DSlr try to shoot raw you will get more options to customize it...

There is nothing wrong with using a DSLR in full auto mode. That is how many pros use their modern cameras ;)

AF is more or less essential when using any low cost DSLR, as using MF with the cheaper lenses and bodies is a exercise in frustration. With most of the DSLRs, the viewfinders are dim and optimized for brightness and not for enabling easier AF. This was true even with AF film SLRs. Now if you are tracking moving subjects, then AF is more or less essential.

The insistence of setting the exposure using manual controls on a DSLR by new users is another area which I find puzzling. I rarely use the manual exposure mode in my DSLRs. Mostly working with auto aperture and exposure compensation gets me better results. This is true even when I am using my MF lenses for macro shooting. Unlike with a film SLR, on a DSLR, you can review the image, see the histogram(s) and then adjust exposure using exposure compensation.

I have experience only with Nikon DSLRs, and I find that on Nikon DSLRs, the exposure meters are in general very accurate and dependable when used in the matrix metering mode. And once you get the feel of your camera's exposure meter and the way it works, you can figure out the amount of exposure compensation required for most types of scenes where the exposure meter falters. If all else fails, use the histogram to adjust exposure compensation.

One of the advantages of a good DSLR is that the camera allows you to change the settings without going through a maze of menus. This coupled with the larger sensor and the general speed of operation of a DSLR is what makes them a very potent photographic equipment. The typical DSLR will allow you to customize the camera very finely, while most P&S cameras will not allow the same.

The ability to use the manual mode is also very useful, but one must also learn to make use of the camera's automation and learn how to make the best use of that.

RAW capture is more like capturing the actual sensor data and removing the dependence on the body's image processing software to make the best image possible from a camera's sensor. RAW capture is very useful if you want to get the best quality image out of your DSLR. It avoids any JPEG compression, so you get the best resolution with a RAW capture. RAW capture uses more than 8 bits to represent each colour channel. This helps a lot in the post processing stage. Another big advantage of RAW capture is that you do not need to bother about the picture quality and white balance settings in the camera, as all of these settings can be overridden during post processing. UniWB is an interesting extreme application of this ability of RAW capture. Finally newer generation software improve upon the RAW processing abilities. So in future, you can re-process your old RAW images with newer convertors to get better quality.

-- no1lives4ever
 
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