Compression driver / Super Tweeter ?

Big step @rajan- Sincerely hope they work out well for you. Please keep us posted if you feel like it. As chance would have it, I'm working on a very similar thing for/with someone right now.
 
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Is it available in India ?
Not sure. I haven’t checked when I was there.

I took out my teak LeCleach horns from years of storage and spent 2 days polishing them. `these were made by Viren Bakshi of Lyrita.

Now I need to paint frames to hold the Horns, hoping to do that over the weekend and then a simple filter
 

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Good switch idea (I'll name my switch after you when I steal it after you work out all the hard bits). :)
there you go. it was not hard to put it into a diagram. I suggest you use an automotive 2 way switch , to handle currents . they should be plenty capable.
 

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Test mounting the CD to the horn mount and then to mount the horn itself.

Luckily for me the screw holes and mounting hardware supplied the CD matched, so no time spent on those.

Next I need to rig up a prop to increase the height of the horn mount so the horn mouth can stand out side of the top of the wooden cabinet. Important for moving it around so that it doesn’t block the tank-band driver in the bottom cabinet as well as finding the optimum TA ( just by ear now, i have plans for REW later once all h/w is ready and a base line is set )

Next is the crossover. I have the Cap and air core inductors ready, haven’t got the L pad resistors yet. That’s for tmw.
 

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Test mounting the CD to the horn mount and then to mount the horn itself.

Luckily for me the screw holes and mounting hardware supplied the CD matched, so no time spent on those.

Next I need to rig up a prop to increase the height of the horn mount so the horn mouth can stand out side of the top of the wooden cabinet. Important for moving it around so that it doesn’t block the tank-band driver in the bottom cabinet as well as finding the optimum TA ( just by ear now, i have plans for REW later once all h/w is ready and a base line is set )

Next is the crossover. I have the Cap and air core inductors ready, haven’t got the L pad resistors yet. That’s for tmw.
Which brand of components are you using for the crossover. I remember using a very low value Vishay Roederstein MKP1837 across the tweeter capacitor which helped clear up some of the muddiness in the highs.

Speakers look spectacular 👏👏
 
I am starting with a first order butterworth, at 2.2k , (that would be around 9uf) with an Lpad (have different values resistors to try with)
Once i start liking what i hear, that’s time I will get a calibrated mic and do a REW session.

Will not go exotic on crossover parts unless i know what i like. (Or will go DSP active crossover)

In between experiments, i go back to point source with the switch :) when i just want to listen. Or family wants to listen. (well i have a sub augmented at the bottom in anycase)

Thank you.
The speakers ALSO sound spectacular , may be i am biased due to it being my own making. But it got a 4.5m length horn hiding inside that cabinet. And needs 2 people to move it .
 
The CD is mounted on an adjustable footing. I dig this look. So far I could get only one side fully mounted. `other side is still pin the wooden frame, need to complete tomorrow.

Finished the first version of the filter and wired them up. And started playing. Didn’t realise the time, and didnt get the time to finish the bracket / adjustable footing for the second piece.

Was expecting much harsher sound since the CD is brand new, but surprise!!!!, it’s not.. @grindstone … thanks man for the suggestion… I am loving it so far…. Surprisingly delicate as well. `my previous experience was with a much more common Eminence CD. Day and night difference in finesse.. Would be interesting how it opens up once it get some mileage.
 

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…. Would be interesting how it opens up once it get some mileage.

FWIW, mine didn't noticeably change that way (like say the Ti diaphragms have the abrupt/instant change), but maybe yours will--unknown. After maybe ~10 years on them, saw distortion going up so just reseated the diaphragms and that did it. Surely they're produced differently now, though, so who knows (?)

But yeah--it's the extra top and the delicacy of them that's the keeper, isn't it? Wasn't a word applicable to compression drivers for me until I heard those. Glad it seems to be working that way for you as well. Sincere thanks for the report and progress update and nice work!
 
Your room looks lovely. The speakers look gorgeous as well! From visuals, I cant detect but I hope you are taking care of the physical time alignment of both the drivers to get best coherence possible. If I understand correctly, you are crossing over to the CD at 2.2Khz, at this frequency the wavelengths would be 6.1" long, so your vertical offset between the drivers would become critical. But if there is no coherence issues, you could ignore all this.
 
Your room looks lovely. The speakers look gorgeous as well! From visuals, I cant detect but I hope you are taking care of the physical time alignment of both the drivers to get best coherence possible. If I understand correctly, you are crossing over to the CD at 2.2Khz, at this frequency the wavelengths would be 6.1" long, so your vertical offset between the drivers would become critical. But if there is no coherence issues, you could ignore all this.
Thank you. I will have to run some measurements at some point. And it will be a good learning opportunity ..

For now, this is very good and satisfying to me. And much more importantly wife agrees and likes them as well.

I will be getting a Wiim ultra soon and will do some basic DSP through that, starting with Sub integration. And take baby steps on a DSP journey if I like it.

I do not have a seperate listening room, and these are the main speakers, for TV and music. So the magic switch is a saviour if and when I like to listen to just the main horn as full range.
 
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