DIY- RCA Cable with Belden

[Amarendra]

Hi,

Completed a small DIY project of building my own RCA cables on trial basis. Cable used was shielded Belden 8451 cable (22AWG tinned copper). The cable is made with a lot of attention to detail. Within the PVC cover lies a thin sheet of tissue. Under that is the shielding, then 3 wires- a red a black and a bare wire which i suppose is for grounding (see snap).
I had previously cut open a Bandridge RCA cable just to see the quality of cables and the construction of the cable but was quite disappointed to see just thin copper strands inside.
The Belden 8451 is also quite thin but once you start braiding the strands you realize the thickness and solidity of the cable.
As seen on youtube I made the cable unidirectional by keeping the output end comprising of all 3 wires- black, red and the uncovered ground cable. The input end just comprises of 2 wires- black and red.
I used RCA plugs from Amazon which were lying around unused but honestly not happy with the quality here. They are oxidized + they either fit too snugly or too loose.
Requesting some recommendations on the RCA plugs- brands + source.

Currently the cable is connected between my Schiit Modi+ DAC and the tube pre- amp which feeds into the Rotel amp. If I find good RCA plugs I will build another pair between the pre- amp and the Rotel.

My soldering skills are pretty bad- each time I burn a finger or two and the soldering is barely done. I also found that the soldering metal does not stick that well to the RCA plug hence looking for better plugs.

Sound Quality
I was happy that the cable worked in one shot without any tinkering. I find the sound to be sweet (obviously since I made it myself . But to be honest as I replaced cables- both speaker (tin vs copper) and now RCA I find the background going quite dark. I also find the high frequencies to be slightly rolled off and some substance/grunt added to lower mid range. I can now notice these differences after shifting to the KEF LS 50 Metas which tend to be very transparent and revealing.

Thanks for reading

 

[dafreaking]

Can try sourcing Neutrik/Rean connectors https://www.mouser.in/ProductDetail/REAN/NYS373-6?qs=43pPWqpsSNuT3uEZp4ur6Q==

 

[surfatwork]

When soldering any terminal which has more metal mass, ensure the surface is as clean as possible (bit of filing or sanding may be needed). Then pre-tin your cable end. Apply flux on the terminal and use a high watt iron to ensure it gets adequately hot. Pre-tin that too. Then solder.

 

[Amarendra]

When soldering any terminal which has more metal mass, ensure the surface is as clean as possible (bit of filing or sanding may be needed). Then pre-tin your cable end. Apply flux on the terminal and use a high watt iron to ensure it gets adequately hot. Pre-tin that too. Then solder.

Any recommendation on soldering iron and tin. I currently use a Stanley which is 30W.

 

[Amarendra]

Can try sourcing Neutrik/Rean connectors https://www.mouser.in/ProductDetail/REAN/NYS373-6?qs=43pPWqpsSNuT3uEZp4ur6Q==

This is slightly worrying-

 

[hifimaddy]

Any recommendation on soldering iron and tin. I currently use a Stanley which is 30W.

Oyaide SS-47 silver solder and audio note silver solder; if you can find these, this will work great.

 

[mbhangui]

You can get good rca plugs here https://www.theaudiocrafts.com/

Regarding soldering @surfatwork has given the best advice. I always apply wembley's soldering flux on surface when large surface area is involved. Just tiny bit of flux needs to be smeared. Even soldering wire has flux inside it, but it is mostly ineffective when soldering on slightly oxidized surface. I use solderon 75w for such work. If you use those 10w, 20w iron for such work, the molten solder gets cooled down immediately on contact with large surface resulting in dry solder. For soldering on pcb I use smaller wattage iron.
With the right amount of heat, a good soldering will appear shiny. Dry solder will look dull and powdery. Apply too much heat, the plastic on the wires near the exposed wire will start melting. You can practice soldering ordinary wires on junk brass metal pieces to get the hang of it. It doesn't take much time to get hang of it.

 

[hifimaddy]

Last year, I thought to make two pairs of DIY RCAs. I had many soldering experiences in the past, but i dont have audiophile soldering skills, then I found out about solderless RCA connectors. I don't know if it's a good idea. So after a lot of confusion, I brought the cables.

Anyone using solderless RCA connectors? Tell me how it works. any issues with loose connections.

 

[Amarendra]

Last year, I thought to make two pairs of DIY RCAs. I had many soldering experiences in the past, but i dont have audiophile soldering skills, then I found out about solderless RCA connectors. I don't know if it's a good idea. So after a lot of confusion, I brought the cables.

Anyone using solderless RCA connectors? Tell me how it works. any issues with loose connections.

I used partial solderless RCA connectors yesterday. There is a tiny screw inside for the live signal wire (red). Unfortunately for the ground one you have to solder. There is a brand called Sewel Deadbolt which has eliminated soldering completely but I doubt if its available here

 

[Amarendra]

You can get good rca plugs here https://www.theaudiocrafts.com/

Regarding soldering @surfatwork has given the best advice. I always apply wembley's soldering flux on surface when large surface area is involved. Just tiny bit of flux needs to be smeared. Even soldering wire has flux inside it, but it is mostly ineffective when soldering on slightly oxidized surface. I use solderon 75w for such work. If you use those 10w, 20w iron for such work, the molten solder gets cooled down immediately on contact with large surface resulting in dry solder. For soldering on pcb I use smaller wattage iron.
With the right amount of heat, a good soldering will appear shiny. Dry solder will look dull and powdery. Apply too much heat, the plastic on the wires near the exposed wire will start melting. You can practice soldering ordinary wires on junk brass metal pieces to get the hang of it. It doesn't take much time to get hang of it.

Thanks very much. I finally picked up this one: Amphenol ones

Amphenol Audio Black Chrome Cable Mount RCA Plug, Gold, 10A | Amphenol Audio | RS Components India

ACPL-CRD Amphenol Audio | Amphenol Audio Black Chrome Cable Mount RCA Plug, Gold, 10A | 261-7791 | RS Components

in.rsdelivers.com

 

[Amarendra]

Last year, I thought to make two pairs of DIY RCAs. I had many soldering experiences in the past, but i dont have audiophile soldering skills, then I found out about solderless RCA connectors. I don't know if it's a good idea. So after a lot of confusion, I brought the cables.

Anyone using solderless RCA connectors? Tell me how it works. any issues with loose connections.

This one is solder free from link shared by mbhangui however there is no brand mentioned:

RCA Male Plug CX-1 - Solder Free

theaudiocrafts.com

 

[mbhangui]

I used partial solderless RCA connectors yesterday. There is a tiny screw inside for the live signal wire (red). Unfortunately for the ground one you have to solder. There is a brand called Sewel Deadbolt which has eliminated soldering completely but I doubt if its available here

Even with the solderless connectors (one with the screw) one should solder the tip of the wire. Just twist the exposed portion of the wire. Apply tiny amount of flux. Then melt tiny bit of solder on the soldering rod tip. After that just contact the soldering iron tip at the end of the wire. Because of flux, the molten solder will flow automatically due to capillary action and the entire exposed wire will become a stiff soldered wire. The insert the wire into the hole and tighten the screw. If you don't solder the wire tip, the strands will break when you tighten the screw and that will increase the resistance a tiny bit.

 

[mbhangui]

This one is solder free from link shared by mbhangui however there is no brand mentioned:

RCA Male Plug CX-1 - Solder Free

theaudiocrafts.com

Most of the RCA plugs on Amarendra's site above are from Taiwan.

 

[Amarendra]

Even with the solderless connectors (one with the screw) one should solder the tip of the wire. Just twist the exposed portion of the wire. Apply tiny amount of flux. Then melt tiny bit of solder on the soldering rod tip. After that just contact the soldering iron tip at the end of the wire. Because of flux, the molten solder will flow automatically due to capillary action and the entire exposed wire will become a stiff soldered wire. The insert the wire into the hole and tighten the screw. If you don't solder the wire tip, the strands will break when you tighten the screw and that will increase the resistance a tiny bit.

Flux ordered from Amazon. Thanks

 

[Amarendra]

You can get good rca plugs here https://www.theaudiocrafts.com/

Regarding soldering @surfatwork has given the best advice. I always apply wembley's soldering flux on surface when large surface area is involved. Just tiny bit of flux needs to be smeared. Even soldering wire has flux inside it, but it is mostly ineffective when soldering on slightly oxidized surface. I use solderon 75w for such work. If you use those 10w, 20w iron for such work, the molten solder gets cooled down immediately on contact with large surface resulting in dry solder. For soldering on pcb I use smaller wattage iron.
With the right amount of heat, a good soldering will appear shiny. Dry solder will look dull and powdery. Apply too much heat, the plastic on the wires near the exposed wire will start melting. You can practice soldering ordinary wires on junk brass metal pieces to get the hang of it. It doesn't take much time to get hang of it.

Placed another order for solderless RCA as well from theaudiocrafts. lets see how it goes. Thanks

 

[dafreaking]

This is slightly worrying-
View attachment 83889
View attachment 83890

I shared that link just for the product details.

 

[Amarendra]

I shared that link just for the product details.

No problem just wanted to caution you that in case you order you will end up paying a lot more.

 

[spanchal]

Any recommendation on soldering iron and tin. I currently use a Stanley which is 30W.

https://aramarket.in/product/goot-soldering-iron-30w-kx30r-original/

for soldring iron

https://in.element14.com/kester-solder/83-7068-1402/solder-96-5-3-0-5sn-ag-cu-217/dp/1905593?ICID=I-HP-STM7REC-RP-3

For tin or solder wire

 

[dafreaking]

No problem just wanted to caution you that in case you order you will end up paying a lot more.

I got a few "Nakamichi" branded ones from Thailand. Gonna make a super short interconnect soon with Mogami Neglex 2534

 

[hdpaolo]

Hi,

Completed a small DIY project of building my own RCA cables on trial basis. Cable used was shielded Belden 8451 cable (22AWG tinned copper). The cable is made with a lot of attention to detail. Within the PVC cover lies a thin sheet of tissue. Under that is the shielding, then 3 wires- a red a black and a bare wire which i suppose is for grounding (see snap).
I had previously cut open a Bandridge RCA cable just to see the quality of cables and the construction of the cable but was quite disappointed to see just thin copper strands inside.
The Belden 8451 is also quite thin but once you start braiding the strands you realize the thickness and solidity of the cable.
As seen on youtube I made the cable unidirectional by keeping the output end comprising of all 3 wires- black, red and the uncovered ground cable. The input end just comprises of 2 wires- black and red.
I used RCA plugs from Amazon which were lying around unused but honestly not happy with the quality here. They are oxidized + they either fit too snugly or too loose.
Requesting some recommendations on the RCA plugs- brands + source.

Currently the cable is connected between my Schiit Modi+ DAC and the tube pre- amp which feeds into the Rotel amp. If I find good RCA plugs I will build another pair between the pre- amp and the Rotel.

My soldering skills are pretty bad- each time I burn a finger or two and the soldering is barely done. I also found that the soldering metal does not stick that well to the RCA plug hence looking for better plugs.

Sound Quality
I was happy that the cable worked in one shot without any tinkering. I find the sound to be sweet (obviously since I made it myself . But to be honest as I replaced cables- both speaker (tin vs copper) and now RCA I find the background going quite dark. I also find the high frequencies to be slightly rolled off and some substance/grunt added to lower mid range. I can now notice these differences after shifting to the KEF LS 50 Metas which tend to be very transparent and revealing.

Thanks for reading
View attachment 83881
View attachment 83882

Hi good afternoon,
The connectors are very important and beeing not Indian, I don't know which kind of connectors you can find in India on line.
Based on my experience (I am used to make cable by myself) the WBT are the best for signal cable
About soldering I suggest to buy from same brand as per attached picture
Please can you share the type of soldering machine that you are using?
I suggest also to use skrinkable protection (normally are black and red) to identify correctly wiers and connector form left to right
For WBT products there is a Chinese distributor: for what I know you should not pay more than 10 % of custom duty (to be verified)
In Italy I have alot of this connectors but unfortunately my next trip to Italy is at the end of June, so I cannot help you before end of July
Belden is a good cable
Regards
Paolo