DIY Technics Direct Drive TurnTable restoration with Linn Basik LV V Tonearm

cmsajith

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Another DIY project, restoration of my Technics Direct Drive TurnTable with Linn Basik LV V Tonearm (bought from our FM Reubensm : http://www.hifivision.com/sale-owner/26267-linn-basik-lv-v-tonearm-linn-headshell-good-new.html) Currently it has a PMount Tonearm with Audio Technica cart and it plays fine, but I am restricted to use only very few carts.

Basic Ingredients: :)
-------------------
- 1 x Technics SLD 210 Direct Drive TurnTable
- 1 x Linn Basik LV V ToneArm with Linn Headshell
- 1 x Denon DL-103 or similar cartidge

Plans (based on the priority):
----------------------------

(Dont know when will I be able to complete this project as there are a lot of projects in the WIP state. Lets see how it goes.)

- Separate out the turntable base and Tonearm box base. Tonearm box base will house the Phono preamp (now starting with CNC / a DIY route with battery compartment)

- Separate out the powersupply and rewire.

- Make a new record platter

- ToneArm Rewire with pure silver cables (Do we need this? Is the stock wire good enough?)

- Separate Tonearm base for the existing tonearm (main will be the LV-V)


Will take some time to understand the basics of the turntable mathematics. Suggestions are always welcome.
 
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- Separate out the turntable base and Tonearm box base. Tonearm box base will house the Phono preamp (now starting with CNC / a DIY route with battery compartment)

Are you thinking of making a new plinth? Typically, it is feasible to make fresh plinths for turntables that have a top plate that rests on a separate plinth (think Thorens TD 160, or Thorens 124, or Lenco L70/L75, or Garrard 301/401).


- Separate out the powersupply and rewire.

Separate, as in make an outboard power supply unit?

- Make a new record platter

That sounds very intimidating! Most aluminium platters are cast. And they have complex under sides. And even more complicated markings on the periphery for speed strobe light. Another option of course is to use thick acrylic and machine it to the desired diameter (sans the strobe markings). But, if I may ask, what will you achieve by making a new platter? Is the current one damaged? or you need a heavier platter?

- ToneArm Rewire with pure silver cables (Do we need this? Is the stock wire good enough?)

- Separate Tonearm base for the existing tonearm (main will be the LV-V)


Will take some time to understand the basics of the turntable mathematics. Suggestions are always welcome.

Tonearm re-wiring, especially with Cardas wire or equivalent or some fancy silver ought to improve things quite a bit as the current wire is as old as the 'table.

Remove the current arm (please make sure you note down correct points of all 4 tonearm leads so that you can reverse the process if you are not happy at any point) and try fitting the Linn arm. If mounting holes match and you can fasten it properly and adjust vertical height, you may not need to make a new arm board at all.

The most critical thing when mounting a new arm is to get the mounting distance right. Typically, for 9 inch arms, pivot to spindle distance will be around 228-230 mm.
 
Another DIY project, restoratoion of my Technics Direct Drive TurnTable with Linn Basik LV V Tonearm (bought from our FM Reubensm : http://www.hifivision.com/sale-owner/26267-linn-basik-lv-v-tonearm-linn-headshell-good-new.html)


Basic Ingredients: :)
-------------------
- 1 x Technics SLD 210 Direct Drive TurnTable
- 1 x Linn Basik LV V ToneArm with Linn Headshell
- 1 x Denon DL-103 or similar cartidge

Plans (based on the priority):
----------------------------

(Dont know when will I be able to complete this project as there are a lot of projects in the WIP state. Lets see how it goes.)

- Separate out the turntable base and Tonearm box base. Tonearm box base will house the Phono preamp (now starting with CNC / a DIY route with battery compartment)

- Separate out the powersupply and rewire.

- Make a new record platter

- ToneArm Rewire with pure silver cables (Do we need this? Is the stock wire good enough?)

- Separate Tonearm base for the existing tonearm (main will be the LV-V)


Will take some time to understand the basics of the turntable mathematics. Suggestions are always welcome.

Tonearm same mounting distance should be same as original.
You can make a plinth without removing top of Turntable.You will only need to remove bottom plastic cover for new plinth.
Its a good idea to have an outboard power supply.
Technics has magnets underside of its platter,its a part of direct drive.It is not advisable to make a new platter.It will not work
Tonearm rewire is a complex thing but results are always rewarding.You can opt for Cardus or Transfi audio tonearm rewire kit available with ebay TONEARM WIRE QUALITY COPPER LITZ 99p / METRE | eBay
Please remember its a fully automatic TT so adding a new tonearm will not be possible without major surgery.

Regards,
Sachin
 
My plan is to use only the rotary Direct Drive assembly from the original TT and the rest will be custom made including the base/plinth. It doesnt seem to be a complex one as the assembly is directly screwed to the body. The main issue is how to convert an automatic TT to a manual one, I think its controlled through mechanical locks, need to check while running.

Platter doesnt have any pattern to control speed and it directly sits on the shaft, so its doable.
Separating the power supply and putting it in a box seems to be a simple task.


sachu888 said:
Tonearm same mounting distance should be same as original.
Is it same irrespective of the tonearm length?
 
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My plan is to use only the rotary Direct Drive assembly from the original TT and the rest will be custom made including the base/plinth. It doesnt seem to be a complex one as the assembly is directly screwed to the body. The main issue is how to convert an automatic TT to a manual one, I think its controlled through mechanical locks, need to check while running.

Platter doesnt have any pattern to control speed and it directly sits on the shaft, so its doable.
Separating the power supply and putting it in a box seems to be a simple task.



Is it same irrespective of the tonearm length?

Technics platter uses magnet and its a part of the motor.It is also written in the manual.
If your Tonearm length is different than original than mounting distance would be different.In your case it is 211 mm.Linn Basik LVV Owners Manual, Service Manual, Schematics, Free Download | Vinyl Engine

Regards,
Sachin
 
Technics platter uses magnet and its a part of the motor.It is also written in the manual.
If your Tonearm length is different than original than mounting distance would be different.In your case it is 211 mm.Linn Basik LVV Owners Manual, Service Manual, Schematics, Free Download | Vinyl Engine

Regards,
Sachin

Yes, Direct Drives has a magnet inside the platter which is part of the motor. But it can be dismantled and fixed it on another surface/platter. I am now thinking about reinforcing the existing platter with some damping material (need to check the impact of this additional load on the motor)
 
Anyways I fully dismantled the TT to check the feasibility of my plans. It seems the first 2 plans can be easily done. Also I could separate the DD motor from the automatic assembly to make it fully manual.

Following are the internals of the TT (from the back side):

- Direct Drive motor and the automatic assembly are separate and are coupled using a wheel mechanism which leads to the Cue and stop mechanisms. I didnt take the photo before dismantling the DD motor.

dsc0087yu.jpg


Automatic Mechanism
dsc0092hd.jpg


- Switch for starting the DD platter motor. This will be triggered by a nearby mechanical lock when the tonearm is carried to the record.
dsc0088sa.jpg


- Direct Drive motor (Its so thin and it can be easily mounted on a flat surface). Its in very pretty good condition (dont believe the pics:), it looks like new once it is cleaned)
dsc0096yw.jpg

dsc0097ho.jpg

dsc0094r.jpg


- Speed Selector switch circuit
dsc0090v.jpg


- Power Supply
dsc0091fj.jpg


- Magnet inside the platter (can also be dismantled)
dsc0098im.jpg

dsc0100zo.jpg
 
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Wow, the first thread is almost similar to my thinking, thanks for pointing it out. I am not able to see the pics in the office, will check it once I reach home.

Inspiring thought about the motor speed controller using 60Hz, will keep in mind during the improvisation phase.
 
Wow, the first thread is almost similar to my thinking, thanks for pointing it out. I am not able to see the pics in the office, will check it once I reach home.

Inspiring thought about the motor speed controller using 60Hz, will keep in mind during the improvisation phase.

sajith you need to get registered at Audiokarma to see the pic.

Regard,
Sachin
 
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