Group DIY Sub Build: With Peerless Driver and Forte 200 Watts Amp

[jaudere]

Great going Anuj!

 

[anujmishra]

Plate Amp Specification:

Power : 200 watt RMS @ 4 ohms
THD : less than 0.05% at rated power
Frequency response : 20Hz - 150Hz +/- 1 dB
Filter : - 24 db butterworth continuously variable form 40 hz to 150 Hz
Eq : +/- 12 dB at 50 Hz
Inputs : Stereo RCA and stereo high level
Dimensions : 250 mm x 220 mm x 80 mm ( w x h x d)
Weight : Approx 7Kg
Controls : Cut off frequency, Eq and Volume.
Power Supply - Heavy Duty Toroidal transformer

Experts please comment on it.

 

[anujmishra]

Images of progress:

I have made pipe flare and put single coat of black color. Two more coats are required for proper finishing. Need to cut it for proper size. I will do after painting.

Tomorrow I will seal the inside of box with silicon and put bitumen sheets on it.

How to stick bitumen sheets properly?

 

[vijaycool]

Does this peerless driver work with TUBA or horn loaded designs?

Regards,
Vijay

 

[anujmishra]

What is the best method to give external finishing of subwoofer? Also in this design how to protect driver?

Is that anywhere we can round the external edges of subwoofer box? I checked on internet and it requires router tool to give C type edge of subwoofer.

Is the grill is fine or cloth will be fine? It look like there is no scope to put speaker cloth.

Ideas please.

 

[GeorgeO]

I use a pro audio grill of 12 inches dia to protect my drivers-you get them in plastic or metal and the cost around Rs 80-100 from SP Road. I cover the MDF in veneered play with rounded corner moulding in timber.

 

[anujmishra]

I cover the MDF in veneered play with rounded corner moulding in timber.

Thanks for idea. I would visit SP road very soon. Please give more detail about your above statement.

Can I find professional looking port also at SP road? I saw some of the ports in parts-express.

 

[GeorgeO]

No idea about ports in SP Road. I have posted pictures of my speakers, showing details in the diy section on an HT room thread , if you can locate them there fine, otherwise I will do it sometime later when I have time.

 

[GeorgeO]

On ports look here for imported ones:

http://www.hifivision.com/diy/22464-re-ports-flared-ports.html

 

[t.antony]

Is that anywhere we can round the external edges of subwoofer box? I checked on internet and it requires router tool to give C type edge of subwoofer.

You can use a portable grinding machine for rounding the corners of the box - http://www.hifivision.com/diy/16612-my-mtm-stand-mount-loudspeakers-4.html#post248374.

A skilled worker can easily make a uniform rounded finish in couple of hours.

 

[anujmishra]

Lots of and lots of inspiration I got after watching that MTM build. Somehow, I missed this thread. Thank you very much. :clapping:

Now, lots of idea are playing in my mind to provide my sub best possible finishing(Of course under my limit). Today driver and amp arrived from Varsha Electronics.

If i can give look of sub somewhere near your MTM build, it will be hell of sub.

For port building. I am not satisfied with my first build and I will be discarding it. Flare did not come well as I tried it against back side of glass bowl. I will give one more try then again painting. Of Course, practice makes man perfect . So this is journey for me to become perfect.

 

[anujmishra]

I checked the driver and plate amp. Plate amp seems to be nice build. There is no +ve and -ve terminal in the driver. How to connect the red and black wire into it?

 

[cmsajith]

post a picture of the driver

 

[anujmishra]

Here are the pics. I am too lazy now to take out driver from the box. So just posting rear side of driver.

 

[Flash]

Congrats ....
Now the interesting part starts the Build itself

 

[jaudere]

Out of the two terminals, the wider should be positive. In any case there should not be any problem if you interchange connections by mistake. If it is opposite you will know it by poor bass response and then changing phase by 180 deg using phase reversal knob should take care of it.

My guess is that very small - and + signs will be etched there on the white plastic piece on which the terminals are mounted. Try to search with a powerful torchlight.

 

[spirovious]

Even connecting a pencil cell will let you know whether the cone is moving outward OR inward.

 

[GeorgeO]

Anuj

I've posted a few pics on another thread yesterday(diy section) of the timber moulding, you can get an idea about what I did from there.

 

[anujmishra]

Anuj

I've posted a few pics on another thread yesterday(diy section) of the timber moulding, you can get an idea about what I did from there.

It is fantastic. You all guys are Phd in designing speaker enclosures. This is my first project. Now all my attention go towards designing enclosure and give some aesthetic look for my living room.

My carpenter went to Kerala for some work he got there. Do not know when this project will complete.

 

[t.antony]

Good going Anuj, if you are planning to work with large amounts of putty, I would recommend investing in a sanding machine as well. While making your flared port from PVC, make sure that both ends are flared similar to this - Heat Moulded Port Flares

Also while shaping pvc, only the required length from the tip needs to be heated to avoid creating wrinkles above the flare.

Keep up the good work.