How to hook car subwoofer to yamaha receiver

Amansingh

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Guys i want to hook my car sub jbl 1200 watt 300 rms to yamaha receiver yht 1840. I hav two question.
1. Can this sub be directly attached to the output for passove sub?
2. If it has to be pre out. Then how to power 2 channel v12 amp? Will pc smps work?

3. Last but not least. Is it worth attaching car sub to the setup?
TIA
 
Aman, pl alllow me add one more question.
4. If amp allows 2channels (4 speakers of 50w) totalling to 200w. Can we connect 2x 100w car speaker to draw total 100w power from each channel?
 
Guys i want to hook my car sub jbl 1200 watt 300 rms to yamaha receiver yht 1840. I hav two question.
1. Can this sub be directly attached to the output for passove sub?

Yes.. It can be attached to HTIB passive sub output.. But the power will be limited to AVR..

2. If it has to be pre out. Then how to power 2 channel v12 amp? Will pc smps work?

I don't know much here to make the sub work with PC SMPS.. There was a recent thread by a FM who made it work.. You may take inputs from him..

3. Last but not least. Is it worth attaching car sub to the setup?

If you already have the sub with the enclosure, then all you need is PC SMPS, which shouldn't be expensive.. I would say trying it out is worth it thru AVR pre-out..

If you will need to buy the sub enclosure and then try it, i would suggest to refrain from the experiment..

A 12 inch sub, if all settings done correctly, should be a vast improvement over HTIB sub..

BTW, do you have circular enclosure?..
 
Guys i want to hook my car sub jbl 1200 watt 300 rms to yamaha receiver yht 1840. I hav two question.
1. Can this sub be directly attached to the output for passove sub?
2. If it has to be pre out. Then how to power 2 channel v12 amp? Will pc smps work?

3. Last but not least. Is it worth attaching car sub to the setup?
TIA


Would suggest a cheap inexpensive sub amp with power supply than go for jugaad . An IRS2092 mono or something like this
https://www.amazon.in/Bassoon-BBMS-...UTF8&qid=1542783308&sr=8-11&keywords=stk+4392
https://diyaudiocart.com/kits/Power...TTA1943-TTC5200-Power-Amplifier-W-o-Heat-sink with a cheap transformer and cabinet would not cost much .
 
I just saw that your AVR has a pre-out for the subwoofer.
You can connect the sub output from the AVR to a car audio amplifier and power the subwoofer with it.

Use the cheap Chinese 30 amp rated AC to DC converter available on Amazon to power the car amplifier.

Yes you can use car amps and subs at home aswell. But you might have to customize the enclosure as most enclosure in car designs would have been optimized to account for cabin gain.
But you can just start with the same enclosure and see how it sounds
 
what is meant by power will be limited to AVR. ? is there any danger to AVR or SUB?

An AVR with passive sub-out might produce approx 30watts of power, which isn't enough for a 12inch driver to produce/ achieve enough Sound Pressure Level.. Basically underpowered.. You may not feel enough thump..

However, if you use AVR pre-out and with external amplifier, which can produce more watts, then that would be good..

From your attached picture, i think you are good to go..
 
I just saw that your AVR has a pre-out for the subwoofer.
You can connect the sub output from the AVR to a car audio amplifier and power the subwoofer with it.

Use the cheap Chinese 30 amp rated AC to DC converter available on Amazon to power the car amplifier.

Yes you can use car amps and subs at home aswell. But you might have to customize the enclosure as most enclosure in car designs would have been optimized to account for cabin gain.
But you can just start with the same enclosure and see how it sounds
ok bro can share link for one?
 
passive sub-out might produce approx 30watts of power

This is incorrect. YHT-1840 has two outputs for the subwoofer, one the active out (speaker terminals) where-in you can directly connect a subwoofer. You will have to be very careful here else, you can fry the amplifier.
The impedance of the subwoofer you plan to use should not be below the rated which I think looks like 6 ohms, but you should be ok with 4 ohm...do not connect any sub under 4 ohms rating.
Also it not a very high power output, so I would not recommend high power subs. In fact the output is best suited for what it has shipped with, and avoid taking this route.

The good thing about the model if that it has a dedicated passive preout for the subwoofer, which you can connect to an active subwoofer, or as you plan, to a car amplifier plus sub.
You can set the crossover either on the Yamaha receiver or on the subwoofer amp.
 
This is incorrect. YHT-1840 has two outputs for the subwoofer, one the active out (speaker terminals) where-in you can directly connect a subwoofer. You will have to be very careful here else, you can fry the amplifier.
The impedance of the subwoofer you plan to use should not be below the rated which I think looks like 6 ohms, but you should be ok with 4 ohm...do not connect any sub under 4 ohms rating.
Also it not a very high power output, so I would not recommend high power subs. In fact the output is best suited for what it has shipped with, and avoid taking this route.

The good thing about the model if that it has a dedicated passive preout for the subwoofer, which you can connect to an active subwoofer, or as you plan, to a car amplifier plus sub.
You can set the crossover either on the Yamaha receiver or on the subwoofer amp.
Ok bro thnx for the warning. I was connecting wires to the active out while i read ur post. I wont risk unless m sure that it wont harm my amp.
 
This is incorrect.

I was referring to 30watts would be the power produced by the AVR on the passive subwoofer output (Speaker terminals).. Hope, you are referring to sub impedance mismatch with AVR as incorrect?..

YHT-1840 has two outputs for the subwoofer, one the active out (speaker terminals) where-in you can directly connect a subwoofer. You will have to be very careful here else, you can fry the amplifier.

Right.. YHT-1840 has two outputs for sub-woofer.. Active (Pre-out) and passive out (Speaker terminals)..
 
@elangoas you are interpreting it wrongly. The active is the speaker terminal (amplified) output and passive the preout for sub which you need to connect to external amp
 
Guys m still unclear. Can i connect this or it is a risky business attaching 4ohm sub to 6 ohm amp

I think you are good with sub driver and the amplifier.. The only thing is power supply.. As suggested by FM above and in the other thread, he had used simialr set-up.. Plz check with him on the same..
 
I think you are good with sub driver and the amplifier.. The only thing is power supply.. As suggested by FM above and in the other thread, he had used simialr set-up.. Plz check with him on the same..
Ok bro first I'll do testing with pc smps. If it makes difference then I'll buy better smps. Thnx
 
The car amps are typically underpowered unless class D for a sub . THe amp that you have V12 model might be underpowered . Rather go to delhi market get a proper sub woofer amp . It will be as cheap or at the max a little more costlier than an smps
 
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