Injection molded ICs

[ranjeetrain]

Lately I discovered that my one channel of my most useful interconnect Transparent Audio MusicLink Super developed some problem. Late at night when it's dead quite, I can hear a very faint hiss from one channels during pause between songs. It's not really bothersome but I would like to get it fixed if possible.

While trying to find out if there was something obvious that I could see and fix, I opened the outer shell wanting to see if one of the connectors had come out loose or something. To a pleasant surprise I found out that the connectors are injection molded. Means, any DIY effort is out of question.



One option is to send it to Transparent USA for fixing. But I would like to avoid the route due to obvious reasons. That brings me to the question: does anyone know who can fix this in India?

Had it not been an injection molded, probably a lot of people could help, but with injection molding? Anyone does interconnects like these in India who can fix my IC?

 

[magma]

before opening it up
first check with multimeter if the IC is draining (i.e signal shorting etc )

i assuming there is no hiss with another IC

 

[keith_correa]

Are you sure it's molded? Not hot melt glue? I'm asking because I've seen commercial cable connectors filled with hot melt glue and some filled with resin. They claim it "damps" the connections.

 

[ranjeetrain]

I have isolated the problem by disconnecting all components and connecting back one by one. I was suspecting EMI from one of nearby power bricks to be at play. But after nailing things down component by component it came down to this IC. If I swap the IC the hiss moves to the other channel. That confirms that the problem indeed is with this IC, the other one in the pair is just fine.

I do suspect it could be a problem with the draining. Seems like the drain and negative are shorted at one end. But I don't have a multimeter at hand. I'll get it tested by someone and get back.

 

[keith_correa]

Am also wondering what in a cable can cause hiss. Is it interference?

 

[ranjeetrain]

@Keith, not really sure mate. When I opened it the first word came to my mind was injection molding. But you have a point. It may just be hot glued with an appropriate material.

The photo I posted was hi-res. I guess I should post a hi-res photo to give a better idea of the same.

 

[keith_correa]

Poke it. If it gives, it's probably resin. If it does not and if you can easily prise put a tiny chip it's probably glue.

 

[ranjeetrain]

Am also wondering what in a cable can cause hiss. Is it interference?

That was the first thing that came to my mind as well But that didn't turned out to be the case. Because that way even after swapping the IC with the opposite channel the problem should have persisted.

When I removed this IC and used another one in it's place (just the faulty channel, not both) the hiss went away.

I am suspecting mishandling on my part might be to blame. I had moved the rack behind nearly touching the wall for some time. Possibly the IC wasn't designed to by strained like that. It needed some generous space on the back.

Btw, here are hi-res pics. Better view of the connector.

If I point the nail on it and press hard, it makes a mark, but it's a solid feeling off-white color stuff.

 

[Thad E Ginathom]

Your fault finding process seems to leave no alternative but to blame this cable. I'm curious, though: how did you decide which end is at fault? (and does it make any difference if you swap the direction. ie. some faults with wires happen when a particular plug is in a particular socket).

Have you done the thing where you manipulate the cable along its length, listening for any effect --- in case the fault is not actually at an end?

Is this an expensive cable? Would it hurt very much to chop off the plug and DIY a new one? Well, if sending it back to USA is on the cards, I guess the answer is that you would not want to do that.

 

[ranjeetrain]

No, I am not sure which end is at fault. All I could ascertain is that one of the ICs in the pair is at fault. I don't have the skills/equipments to check which end of the cable is at fault.

I have always connected both the cables in the pair in the same direction, even as they doesn't have specific markings. So I suppose I can turn the cable around and use the opposite ends to connect and see if the problem is gone. My reasoning says that shouldn't make a difference but I'd really happy to be wrong on this.

It cost me around USD 800. So it's not exactly an expensive cable, but still not cheap enough to just let go. So, I'll try and get it fixed. Also, it sounded more open compared to the one I replaced it with, so keen to get it back in the chain.

Sending to USA is the worst case scenario. A better solution is to order a set of WBT connectors and cut the good length into two and make a pair half the current length. Or just take out the connectors off the faulty one, cut the good one into two and re-terminate with original termination. That will also retain the complete signature of the cable.

Let's see how does it finally settle.

 

[Thad E Ginathom]

My reasoning says that shouldn't make a difference but I'd really happy to be wrong on this.

Simply, sometimes one plug sometimes mates with one socket, but not with another. I'm thinking back to mystery computer-cable problems where we found this to be the case. It's a very physical solution.

It cost me around USD 800. So it's not exactly an expensive cable

$800 would, for me, be a lot to spend on any component. You know that I'd never buy cables like that anyway, but I wish you well. No warranty, I suppose?

Actually, if they do have a signature, a flavour, I'd expect that to be an end to end thing, and the plug and the solder would count. As this is a stereo pair, this might be a bad risk. I may not be a cable man, but I'd still be uncomfortable with not having both channels matched. And uncomfortability can be heard!

 

[ranjeetrain]

Ah, that physical contact thing didn't occur to me. Worth a try. No harm giving that a shot.

No warranty as I didn't buy it in India. I wrote to Transparent and they responded at first, but after realizing the cable is out of warranty they haven't reverted back. In any case, their proposal to send the cable to USA was an expensive one.

I hear you In fact 'the hiss' isn't as if it is completely screwing the sound. But it's a fear in my mind that it 'might be' messing with the imaging. Hence the 'itch' to get it fixed.

 

[Santy]

What is this thing inbetween?
Isolator or conditioner or something?
I feel that could be the part causing trouble, because there aren't any other!
Or the cable was damaged that the ground wires got squashed in too close to the core.

 

[ranjeetrain]

I don't know the exact details on what it is but I understand a high-end company's version of a ferrite code. Details here: Transparent Audio - Transparent Cable Interconnects and Speaker Cables

Transparent calls it network design or super network and claims "Super networks and cable work together to reject noise for cleaner, clearer, more focused signal transmission.". I don't know whether it's voodoo or purely a matter of higher purity copper, but this IC is definitely more clean with better imaging and better extended top compared to others I have.

It's very much possible that the network is at fault, but I would suspect that the drain and negative have been short, as I had pushed the amp too close to the wall for a while and interconnect was strained (turned sharply). Quite possibly that could be the reason. But a problem with the network can't be ruled out completely.

 

[jls001]

Alternative to the WBT is Neutrik ProFi. 1200 a pair.

 

[praveencshekhar]

Looking at the photo, I am sure it is not injection molded.

 

[Vinod.R]

Layman's question.

How expensive is a new pair of the same cable now?

If it is workable, buy a new pair of the same cable.

Vinod

 

[Thad E Ginathom]

I don't suppose Ranjeet really fancies spending $800-plus again!

Here's an idea: take it to a medical lab and give a radiographer a few hundred Rs to X-ray it!

OK... just a crazy idea... Probably wouldn't "see" through the shield anyway.

 

[ujjwaana]

It cost me around USD 800. So it's not exactly an expensive cable, but still not cheap enough to just let go. So, I'll try and get it fixed. Also, it sounded more open compared to the one I replaced it with, so keen to get it back in the chain.

$800 for a pair of RCA IC is indeed a costly pair, even if they are not THE Costliest. I am from the Middle path between two schools on Cables. I have seen real military grade interconnects which goes into Fighter jets.
But I feel many 'Audiophile' grade cables are sold and much higher price than these Military grade cables. While they might make a difference, I don't believe that a $1500 a pair RCA/Speaker cables has that worth of Material, research or craftsmanship. We have to accept that even Pro Audio/Audiophile market is governed by the same general market principal - Ask whatever customer can pay. Once in the hobby, you actually keep moving to brands/models which you can stretch that little bit, you could have afford.

Well, what I can suggest you is to start with getting pair very cheap RCA plugs from local market and start with cutting one end (you can ask you kid/spouse to choose the end as diagnostic would need very specialized equipment or a very ingenious one) and replace the RCA plug with the make shift one. If you are lucky, plugging the RCA, if you get rid of the noise and sound back, you can replace with a decent plug. If not, replace the other RCA plug too. If you still don't get the issue resolved, there is damage somewhere in the middle of the wire. you cannot do anything for the cable. Better get a new pair to get a balanced signature from both the channels.

 

[ranjeetrain]

Looking at the photo, I am sure it is not injection molded.

Thanks! What is it then? More importantly, how to remove it safely without damaging the IC in order to fix it?

Is it hot glue? Will it come off if heated? How do I remove it in order to check the termination?

Layman's question.

How expensive is a new pair of the same cable now?

If it is workable, buy a new pair of the same cable.

Vinod

Buying a new one is not a solution. Better still I can send it to Transparent USA for fixing. That will surely be cheaper than buying a new one.

Here's an idea: take it to a medical lab and give a radiographer a few hundred Rs to X-ray it!

OK... just a crazy idea... Probably wouldn't "see" through the shield anyway.

Actually that's a cracking idea, an out of the box thinking. I love the idea, HOWEVER, I am certain I am going to get a few looks from people when I tell them - I want to get my cable x-ray-ed

They're gonna think cable needs x-ray or not, this guy's brain surely does :lol:

Well, what I can suggest you is to start with getting pair very cheap RCA plugs from local market and start with cutting one end (you can ask you kid/spouse to choose the end as diagnostic would need very specialized equipment or a very ingenious one) and replace the RCA plug with the make shift one. If you are lucky, plugging the RCA, if you get rid of the noise and sound back, you can replace with a decent plug. If not, replace the other RCA plug too. If you still don't get the issue resolved, there is damage somewhere in the middle of the wire. you cannot do anything for the cable. Better get a new pair to get a balanced signature from both the channels.

Thanks for the ideas. Problem is I just don't want to cut the cable like that. I am not skilled in this and don't want to ruin this beautiful sounding cable with my heroics. If someone specialized does it with the required tools that will be something else. Home brewing a termination on a 800 USB cable isn't a great idea considering my skill level. After all, the conductivity from a cable is only as good as it's termination. Termination is as important as the cable itself. I prefer getting it done by someone experienced.